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Thanks. We've used both (tape plus silicone) on all the Hayward threaded connections with no issues over the years but they are PVC-PVC. Would compression fittings be something to consider here in order to have something easier to take apart in the future?

We needed to have the pool solar and boiler zone heat exchangers replaced about two years ago and recently the 1 1/2 threaded PVC/Copper joints have started leaking (see photos attached). It appears the thread sealant has dried up and both joints are going to need re-working. Is there a...

Well -- we've been waiting a month now since a ticket was opened and zilch for response. When you call again they say all the info is in the system for whatever that's worth.

I have one of these installed in 12/18 that recently failed. Waiting over two weeks now for a response from tech support that my dealer says will simply inform me it's out of warranty. Are any of these out there that have actually lasted longer than 3 years? From my observation these things...

My transformer is a straight 120/12 volt without taps. I think you're correct with heat related theory. After being off for a few hours mine now runs about 20 sec before flickering out. Immediate attempts after that will shrink the run time down to 5 sec or less. I don't have the dimming...

Thanks. So are the replacements - assuming you went in kind - holding up any longer than the original ones? Mine had probably less than 50 hrs run time but it seems from reports that the failure mode is water ingress vs actual usage.

We have a single 12 volt version of this fixture that was installed 3 years ago and is controlled by cycling the power. It has worked fine until recently when it stopped cycling through programs and now just comes on white for about 5 seconds flickers green and shuts off. You get one...

Thanks for all the replies. So we tested the tap water and the copper is less than 0.1 so the town report was misread as someone noted (the 1.3 ppm was pointing out the alarm level). In answer to some of the other points: 1. Have never used algaecides. 2. The bromine tabs are an In-the Swim...

Got my first green hair complaint last w/e from one of the kids with blond hair on a sleepover. So we tested the water afterwards and nothing looked out of line from previous: BR 4.0 pH 7.3 TA 90 CH 200 Temp 81 deg F After some research I found the copper level needed to be tested so got...

So here's my question: Why does the Hayward installation manual show leaving an excess coil of wire in the niche if you can't do anything to the fixture when it's up on the deck?

Realize this is an old thread but wanted to comment on use of barb fittings with Tigerflex hose. The joints in the attached photo haven't leaked a drop in almost 30 years outliving two pumps, two filters and three solar water heaters. The installers emphasized the use of double opposing hose...

Great tip -- thanks for the link, Dave. John

The umbilical is just getting old and stiff making re-lamping more and more difficult. I'm sure at some point these sealed beam lamps will become unavailable as well so I'm just looking at options. I'd like to swap out the fixture for one of the new Hayward or Pentiair LED ones that come...

I have a pretty old (30+ years) Hayward 12 volt 300 watt sealed beam fixture that is getting harder and harder to maintain - because that's whats happened to the cable - it's like the coil spring out of a car. Has anyone successfully upgraded one of these to an LED type - Hayward or other mfg -...

The Tigerflex connections at the valve appear to have silcone sealant at the barbed hose fittings along with double clamps. Applied shaving cream to both of these with nothing obvious showing up.

The valve is Hayward SP-733 with 7 positions. As shown both ports are open equally and at 90 degrees the selected port is fully open and the other closed. Then you have 4 in between positions. I read somewhere that the pump seal could cause a suction leak but when I've had this problem water...

I've been getting air bubbles in return lines for a while when hooking up vacuum hose but now they occur anytime the input line selector (Hayward Dial-a-flo) is moved off center. It doesn't matter which direction it's moved - one line is from skimmer, the other from a frog grate in side of...

To follow up - this combination has been holding for three days with zero drips. Ended up letting it set 24 hrs before running pump.

Checked good and could not see any cracks in or around female port. Did some digging in archives re opinions on what prep to use on plastic/plastic threaded fittings. Quite a variety -from no tape to tape alone, paste alone, tape with paste, etc. On another site I came across someone who...

yeah -thanks! But like the TV ad says: "there's more!!". Put everything back together after changing tank O-ring (my original task b/c the flange had a slow leak) and now the lower fitting on multiport is leaking (worse than original leak). So took that apart, changed the hose fitting...

So got it off with knife, silcone spray lube and two screwdrivers inserted thru radially opposite holes in diffuser which allowed enough torque to break it free.

Thanks for the reply. I just replaced the sand a few years ago so would like to avoid that exercise again. The problem is getting a grip on the diffuser since it's flush with the tank opening. I may try sliding something thin (hacksaw blade or boning knife) between standpipe and diffuser to...

My Hayward multiport (SPO714) had been leaking from the flange connecting it to filter (S220T). I attempted to remove it to replace the O-ring and found the diffuser broken off and now stuck to top of standpipe. Any suggestions on how to get this off without damaging pipe?

Yeah - sort of like me. Had the exact same failure this past week with a 1HP SuperII Pump. Couple of things of note: (1) I see the new impeller (SPX3010C) has metal threads. Has anyone seen failures of this version yet? (2) I didn't find an impeller ring (Part SP-3005-R on the diagram) on...