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Everything seems to be pretty much fixed now, except the variable speed pump shuts off when I try to switch it to low speed. It runs fine on high. After I discovered that the filter appeared to have frozen, I built a big box over all the equipment out of 2" insulation board. I put a halogen...

I have a Hayward booster pump that runs the Polaris and an EcoStar for the filter. We've been experiencing an extended freeze (for N Texas, anyway) and all the pumps were running thanks to the freeze guard. Unfortunately, I believe either the filter itself or a pipe froze and both pumps ran...

I was wanting to paint just the white plaster. Not the whole pool. According to the paint website, it can be applied underwater.

Does anyone have any experience with underwater paint, such as Water Gard 300? Our local pool company did a Crud job of fixing two cracks in our pool a couple of years ago. They used white plaster in a blue pool. They tried to fix it a couple of times and failed, so I have been looking for...

That's what I wanted to make sure of. It can wait until the end of summer then, correct?

Thanks for the information. That's what I was wondering about, whether the new mastic would adhere to the old. Is this something that needs to be taken care of right away, or can it wait?

It's Sika Polyurethane Sealant with sand on top.

Here are a couple of the areas. There are more, but they are all about the same.

I have a few spots around my pool where the mastic has separated from the coping. Can I just refill the "cracks" or does it all have to be removed and replaced? I couldn't find any information if the new mastic would adhere sufficiently to the old. Thanks

The decking is concrete. I can't see it, but it feels like the skimmer joint has separated from the pipe. There seems to be about a 1/4" gap. How would the dye test work?

We have a major leak in our pool. The concrete deck at one end has raised about 1/2" above where it used to be. I believe this has caused the drain pipe in the skimmer to separate from the joint. I can't see it, but it feels like there is a gap in the plumbing. My first question is, can I...

The directions I received with my new T-Cell say to install the cell “hump down” if you have a variable speed pump. Due to the way my equipment is plumbed, the best I can do is put it on its side. Is it better to do it this way, or should I put it back “hump up”?

Apparently my salt cell is going bad and reporting erroneous salt levels. Unfortunately, I added more salt before I realized the problem. The Taylor K-1766 test indicates 4200 ppm, Leslie's test was at 3689 ppm and the cell is reporting 1900. I have a new cell ordered (backorder), so I am...

That helps. Sounds like I would be better off going with the 3/4HP impeller. Thank you.

Let me back up: With the original 1 1/2HP impeller and the valves wide open, the bubblers were more like fountains and the waterfall was roaring rapids. That's not what we wanted, so I would close the valves almost all the way off to get the desired effect. This would cause the water trying...

I have a 1 1/2 HP Hayward Tristar pump that runs the waterfall and bubblers. We always had to cut the valves almost all the way off because the water flow was greater than we wanted - a gentle brook, not roaring rapids. A couple of years ago, I replaced the impeller with a 1/2 HP impeller. That...

I could not find a silicon-based lubricant while I was out today. I have a can of GM Super Lube. Anyone know if this would work? I know it is safe for rubber and plastic.

I have a Hayward cartridge filter that is seeping water at the middle rim. I have read several places that state the o-ring needs to be lubricated with a silicone-based lubricant. The manual that came with the filter says not to lubricate the o-ring. I am confused. Should I lubricate it or not?

The nut is brass. I was thinking of replacing the clamp, but I need to fix the issue first. Any ideas?

I had not been out to the equipment pad in awhile. When I did, this is what I found: [/URL] I thought at first it was corrosion, but when I took the clamp off and examined it more closely, I would say it was a salt and/or calcium buildup. There appeared to be no damage to the metal...

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll start off with noon to 8.

:shock: Wow, that is way shorter than what I'm doing. I remember reading when we first got the pool that you should run the pump long enough to turn the pool over 1 1/2 times. According to this article, I should be running the pump 8 hours instead of the 14 hours I'm doing now. If I only run...

And I don't, so it would be even less. I may have to try one of the aftermarket brands I've been reading about. Should I lessen the run time of the pump? The flow rate on high is 90 gpm and on low it's 35 gpm.

Ok, I'll add more bleach. Should I try to keep it around 8 ppm? Since I've never had to add my own chlorine before, how much bleach and how often should I expect to be adding? Just need to know how many gallons to have on hand. With the CYA at 70, I was trying to keep the chlorine at around...

Well the cell failed the test. :grrrr: When I tested this morning: FC = .5 (I've raised to 3.5 with bleach) CC = 0 pH = 7.8 (I've lowered to 7.5) TA = 60 CHA = 700 (another issue) CYA =70 What adjustments can I make?

Ok, the salt tested 3400 at Leslie's, so low salt is not the problem. I have a variable speed pump. During the summer, I run it on high for three hours while the pool cleaner is running, then on low for 11 hours with the SWG set at 25-30%. In the winter, the run times are 2 hours on high...