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Thanks. Stupid question maybe. Is there any reason why I would want the 500w housing vs the 300w if I'm using LED bulbs? I assume it's able to handle the higher thermals of the 500w bulbs, but any difference other than that?

Thanks very much for that response. I previously had this bulb in my leaking light: https://www.florida-sunseeker.com/collections/led-pool-bulbs/products/pentair-16-color-led-upgrade-kit-for-amerlite-large-pool-size?variant=6448912269339 I liked it just fine, but after I bought it, I read...

Can someone confirm that the 784 Amerilite housing is what I need please? The series' listed on the sticker is showing something else. Thank you.

Thanks for the recommendation on the J&J. the second option I linked to is a fully sealed unit that replaces the light housing in the niche.

I need to replace the amerilite housing for our pool light. There is some corrosion at the base due to a water leak and subsequently, the Florida Sunseeker LED bulb I had in there went bad. I'm either looking at 2 options: 1. Get a replacement Amerilite housing and another Florida Sunseeker...

If you have the budget, perhaps cut the coping and 1' or so of the pool deck back and install paver or stone coping? I've got the same coping and the company that replaced my liner said it's possible. I don't care for the white coping but it came with the house when we bought it.

My neighbor lost a good sized windmill palm from a broken line.

Thanks guys. Researching replacements now (like the aforementioned FL sun seeker). I see there are water proof slice kits. Are they good to go or should I pull a new cable?

Thanks I was afraid of that. If I have to go that route, I was thinking about these units, since a new fixture and bulb would run about the same price. Has anyone used these before? I'm assuming they should be compatible with my niche...

My light developed a leak after a liner replacement and trashed my LED bulb. I need to test it, but if the leak is at the cable, I have to replace the whole thing, correct? Here's a couple of pics. The rust in the back makes me think it's leaking at the cable. Thanks for any advice.

Man, I feel dense. I hadn't even considered solar, I was so pre-occupied with the badly placed light switch. Something like that is perfect, and no wires to worry about relocating. Thanks.

The previous owner installed a motion light that's on a switch in a random location in the house by the front door. We hardly ever use it so I was thinking about removing it all together, but maybe I'll just move the switch to a weather proof box by the equipment pad in the event I ever do need...

I just checked my panel and the breaker for the light has an integrated GFCI

I haven't done that actually, but thats a good point. I forgot the smart switches require that. I've never lived in a house without a neutral and ground in each box so I tend to take that for granted. Thanks.

To be honest, I'm not sure that the light is on a GFCI. There is a sub panel in the attic with a few breakers that feeds the pad, but I haven't really looked at it that closely.

I've used some inexpensive smart switches from Monoprice.com to put our porch and entry lights on from dawn to dusk. I got the idea the other day that the same switch could be used to automate the pool light to come on for a few hours in the evening. Currently, the light is controled by a...

Nice job. I have these and they've been great: https://www.outdoorspeakerdepot.com/6-5-inch-outdoor-bluetooth-speaker-pair-black-white-btp650.html

My old Swim Pure Plus green GLX board died and I replaced it with a new blue GLX-PCB-RITE board with the 1.59 software revision. Do I need to calibrate it for my T15 even though it is set to that size cell by default? Despite replacing the board, we've had to manually add liquid chlorine as...

yep, it's not awful after a year, but when it's fresh it has a shine to it. that wears off after some time.

I've applied it to a friend's pool deck. It's pretty watery, but it sticks well. It fades out and needs to be done yearly to keep it's appearance, but it looks good when it's new.

I had an old green RITE board (v41.40), but it bit the dust and was unrepairable. The relay leg burned a hole through the board. The guy who I sent the board off for repair to suggested the new blue board with v1.59. Does anyone know what the differences are between the two? I can see that...

https://saltsolutionsinc.com/

I know it's only been a short time, but how has the cell performed? Any gotchas?

Thank you. I've found the company and purchased the service. Appreciate all the help.

board is smoked. definitely the relay. the e9 spade lug came off with my pliers easily and I assume the heat from the thermistor must have partially desoldered it. looks like I'll need a repair or replacement. looks like that trace runs to the SWCG so I hope it didn't take that out too.