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Have you cycled power to the panel? I don't know how often these controllers glitch and lock up, but it's worth a shot. Someone with a lot more knowledge should be along shortly.

I've got the Kobalt 80v mower, I like it. I don't have a lot of grass to mow and it barely drains the battery, it'll last a long time. The only problem is that I have yet to find a replacement blade, and I've yet to find a way to contact them and ask the what the ____. I got the edger/weed...

They have amazing customer service, I haven't seen better. Turn around on purchases is fast, and the way they handled the dropper cap mix-up was superb. A lot of companies really need to take a page out of TF Test Kit's book, several need more than 1 copy.

What test kit do you use? You're going to be told to ditch the pool store analysis which can't be trusted.

Someone posted that the splashless bleach states on the bottle "not for sanitizing" or something to that effect. So stick with the regular, unscented.

That pool is full of the chemical known as Dihydrogen Monoxide, aka water. Everything is a chemical, the "chemicals are bad" statement is a huge load of... well you know. The only problem I've had with chlorine had nothing to do with a pool, I was at work and we were santizing equipment and...

If you catch the water coming out of the drain hose in a bucket, measure and time it you'd be able to see how much water is being wasted. If you know how much water it takes to drop an inch, you can see how much of the loss is from the drain line.

FC will come down on it's own due to loss from the sun. 26 ppm is just above shock level for 60 ppm CYA, shouldn't hurt anything. Seems a little high to be swimming until it comes down to at least 16 for your CYA.

Slowly pour it into the pool in front of a return with the pump running. From what everyone has said, you should be good to go in 15-30 minutes.

That's disappointing that they haven't fully fixed issues related to the panel, I'll keep looking at all options available.

Sorry to drag up this older thread. I was researching the OmniLogic panel and was wondering if the firmware is any better now.

The original post was about the differences between the 2 cylinders, which lead to questions about which is more accurate leading to some saying the TF cylinder was correct because there were 2 that matched - this being a false assumption to make. So I posted results that show the accuracy of...

According to the pipette, the TF cylinders are less accurate. The meniscus doesn't even touch the black graduation line, you read the meniscus of water at the bottom of the meniscus for a concave meniscus. Zoomed cylinders 1 and 2 Zoomed cylinders 3 and 4 "...In any case, you get the true...

Cylinders 1 and 2 are the ones found in the TF-100 kit. Cylinders 3 and 4 are found in the SpeedStir and K-1766 kits. 1, 2, and 3 were filled using my Capp Rhythm Repeating Pipette with a 25 mL tip on dispense setting 4 (2,000 uL per press). I depressed the dispense button 5 times, totalling...

The cylinder that comes with the Taylor SpeedStir is the Taylor 9198. If anything, the measurement on the one from the TF-100 kit is off as the bottom of the meniscus is at the 10 mL line on the Taylor, whereas the top of the meniscus is below the 10 mL on the TF-100 cylinder. - - - Updated - -...

If the accuracy of the test results rely on an accurate 10 mL sample of water, you should be using the Taylor cylinder. I spent a pretty penny on that repeating pipette, it should be pretty accurate for anything we do.

You should have received the tracking number, mine was shipped USPS. My kit shipped the day after ordering, and arrived 2 days later. I received an email from a Rebecca with the tracking number.

Ok, well then it's just something that I'm going to have to check once I get a pool. It will be a new build plaster pool so I'll have to deal with the curing process and my plan is to go with a cartridge filter so I won't have any backwashing, and in Los Angeles there's only a couple of inches...

I just pulled out my Taylor calibrated cylinder and the standard cylinder from the TF-100 kit and my Capp Rhythm Repeater stepper pipette. The bottom of the meniscus was very close to the 10 and 25 ml marks on the Taylor cylinder, whereas the top of the meniscus didn't quite reach the 10 and 25...

I have a question about Muriatic Acid and the increase in salt levels. I saw in 1 thread where bdavis466 states that 1 gallon of MA will raise salt 250 ppm, another thread he says he has to add 1 gallon a week. I know Pool School recommends 200-400 ppm over the manufacturer's recommended range...

I am the exact same way about everything I do. If I'm buying something that's going to cost me much money, I research it to death, I don't want to wind up regretting my purchase or having to buy something 2 or more times. This is the reason I joined this forum a year plus before I'll even be...

Electrical connections need to be clean and tight, so the wires slipping out of crimped connectors could be an issue. Are they fork or ring terminals?That's a fork terminal, ring doesn't have the split in the end. If your wiring goes into those then get terminated under screws, you could have...

If maintaining pool chemistry solves any issues with future removals, I guess I won't worry about how one would route the pipe to keep the amount of water in the pipe to a minimum.

I'm putting together plans to build a pool and have some questions about lighting. I'm looking at the small LED lights that screw into a 1.5" piece of PVC in the wall. The lights are supposed to be 4" below the water surface, so water will obviously enter the PVC when the light is removed when...

Just wanted to say hello. The wife and I are planning on putting in a pool, so I've been reading up on what it's going to take from an install and maintenance standpoint. I've read a ton of great information on this forum. Currently we're planning a 10x20, with a DE filter, looking at variable...