Hi There, We just opened our pool and our aquarite SWG is not working (no lights/display). We have been trouble shooting using the info provided through this forum (the Hayward Aquarite SWG Further Reading page and related threads). We seem to have the same problem a a thread from Aug 13 2021 posted by GPCMommy. We also had one of the yellow wires that looked burnt at the end. We have cut/crimped the wire, replaced both bridge rectifiers and also replaced the fuse. We have power coming out of one yellow wire (the one that looked burnt) but not the other one. No power in either of the black or red wires connected to the bridge rectifiers. Visually everything looks good. Any ideas what we should try next? It is roughly 10 years old.
Aquarite SWG no lights/display
- Thread starter Kfremlin
- Start date
Also, looking for suggestions on how to chlorinate pool while the SWG is not working. Would prefer to not have to repeatedly add gallons and gallons of chlorine in the interim (like you would when shocking/slamming the pool).
If you don't have a working SWG, manual application of chlorine is your only viable option if you don't want to purchase a liquid feeder, like a Stenner pump.
Possibly the thermistor (large black disc) is damaged (very common).
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,981
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
It shouldn’t be continuous gallons & gallons. Just feed the pool what you need to get ahead of daily fc consumption & stay in target range for your cya
FC/CYA Levels
Somewhere between 2-4ppm on average for most people. That’s around 1- 1.75 gal a day of 10% liquid chlorine in your pool volume. You have a large pool. Your swcg is undersized.
For reference,
The max fc one t15 (40k gal) cell can add to your pool in 24 hrs is 4ppm if run at 100%
If you end up having to shop for another system be sure to get a 60k gal rated one.
Thanks. Appreciate the advice. We will try replacing the thermistor as next step and will keep in mind proper sizing if we have to replace the SWG (hopefully not). We have not had issues maintaining proper chlorine levels over the years with this SWG, though we don't use it to shock the pool. Aside from opening the pool, our chemical levels tend to be good and don't usually need to shock it.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,981
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The thermistor going bad is something that is very common on these so when I was piecing my old aquarite system together I purchased one to have on hand. They are cheap so it’s worth it to have an extra handy.
There’s a detailed write up about it
www.troublefreepool.com
There’s a detailed write up about it
Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
@OP,
You have sw r1.58 and it looks like the thermistor AS32-2R05 is cracked. The picture's quality makes it hard to confirm that. However, the display should be working.
The TB1 jumper setting on your board suggested that you are wired for 120VAC operation. Make sure that the 120VAC is present between terminals 1 and 4 as shown in the picture marked by red arrows.
If it is ok, set the DVM to measure DC voltages. 30-32VDC should be present between the Red and Black wires on the board's top right hand.
If the problem persists, this yt video should help you troubleshoot the no Display and no LED issue.
You have sw r1.58 and it looks like the thermistor AS32-2R05 is cracked. The picture's quality makes it hard to confirm that. However, the display should be working.
The TB1 jumper setting on your board suggested that you are wired for 120VAC operation. Make sure that the 120VAC is present between terminals 1 and 4 as shown in the picture marked by red arrows.
If it is ok, set the DVM to measure DC voltages. 30-32VDC should be present between the Red and Black wires on the board's top right hand.
If the problem persists, this yt video should help you troubleshoot the no Display and no LED issue.