Is there a more accurate CYA test?

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Z

zonkakiick

Bronze Supporter
Apr 4, 2024
24
Peoria, AZ
Pool Size
14000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I'm having trouble with this test as well. I had an RO service done to my water. The tech took a sample to Leslie's and the CYA read 10. Fine...who knows. I bought a bottle of liquid CYA that was supposed to add 30ppm in 10,000 gallons (my pool is a little over 14,400). I dumped it in over two applications. I waited a day and took it back to Leslie's and it read 28...reasonable based on where I started. I added a pound of dry CYA and left it over night to try to get it to dissolve (sock method). It did a bit (maybe 50%). I waited another day to test with the Taylor kit and I fill that vial up and the dot is clear as can be. The solution, after mixing, wasn't very cloudy at all. So it is saying CYA is zero. Not sure how that can be.
Am I doing something wrong here?
 
If the CYA water sample is at all cloudy, there is some CYA in the pool water.
Don't believe the LPS test - they get that one wrong more times than not.

How long has the granular CYA been totally dissolved?
If you kneed and shake the sock in the water, it usually dissolves pretty quickly.
Use only the granular CYA, unless you like paying a ton for the liquid.

When doing the CYA test, fill the test tube to one of the lines - say 60 - and lower the test tube to your waist, back to the sun, and then just glance to see if you can see the dot. If so, fill tube to 50 and try again. Rinse, repeat.
If the dot is visivle at 40 and not visible at 30, round your CYA up to 40. Remember - glance, don't stare.
 
Follow up - I think I'm giving up on this CYA test. I dumped a gallon of liquid conditioner from Leslie (in my sized pool it was supposed to add 26 ppm). Then I've since added 2 8oz trichlor tabs (pool math says a total of 4.7 ppm). I also added a pound of dry stabilizer over a week ago (supposed to add 9 ppm, but I pulled it out after 24 hours because only half, or so, had dissolved).
Conservatively, I've added 35 ppm. I run the test with the vial full and can clearly see the dot at the bottom. I followed the advice I've read on this site about turning away from the sun, glancing at waist level, etc... I can always see the dot clearly. Should I just go forward with what I know should be in there?
Should I assume 40, for purposes of chlorine needs, etc...?
Probably, too worried about the details here, but I have this need to know that the testing numbers are accurate:)
Thanks
 
Sorry to bump this, but still looking for advice/opinions. Based on Pool Math, I know I've put a minimum of 40 CYA in the pool (through liquid CYA, some dry CYA, and 4 trichlor tabs). My Taylor test kit reading still shows the black dot at 30 (a little cloudy, but easily, immediately seen at waist height and I'm 6'5").
For purposes of adding chemicals, should I use 40 (since I know that is what I put in there) or should I use 30,or some other number?
I'm stumped why this test isn't working (or Pool Math is off). The water is around 78 degrees, if it matters.
Any ideas?
Thanks a bunch, as usual:)
 
The CYA test is +/- 10PPM at best. It is not an accurate test and does not need to be very accurate.

The CYA value is used to set your FC targets. If you use 40 instead of 30 you will run a few PPM higher FC. Running higher FC is better then too low FC.

In AZ you have intense sun. I would add 10PPM more CYA as it will provide more sunscreen and reduce your daily FC lost. You will also lose up to 10PPM per month as CYA degrades from the hot pool water you will have. So if you get your CYA a bit high at the start of the season it will come down.

CYA - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

CYA Testing - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Thanks:) I will give it a try. I'll throw a couple of 8 oz trichlor tabs in - that is supposed to add about 5 ppm, then I'll do it again over the next couple of weeks before it gets really hot here.
Thanks, again!
 
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