Help! TF-Pro Arrived, first test, not sure I’m making the right decision.

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LMWed2018

LMWed2018

Member
Mar 21, 2024
20
Houston, TX
Pool Size
20
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
As I suspected our pool CYA is super high. The black dot never disappeared. Prior owner shocked weekly and used chlorine pucks. I removed the puck did no shocks and waited for new test kit.

The pool tested 0 chlorine, 7.8 pH, and off the charts CYA. I did not complete other tests because it was a little overwhelming but will try again.

Am I right to understand we need to drain some water, and add liquid chlorine? Pool math says 10 gallons and drain some water. Do I do both? Not sure how to drain the pool, but I’m sure the internet will help with that…I hope.
 
LMWed2018 said:
Am I right to understand we need to drain some water, and add liquid chlorine? Pool math says 10 gallons and drain some water. Do I do both?
Click to expand...
Run a diluted CYA test. Mix up a batch of 50/50 pool and tap water. Proceed with the rest of the test as normal and double the results. If still 90+ in the tube, use 2 parts tap, 1 part pool, and triple. Or 3 to 1 and quadruple.

Draining is an even proportion to lower CYA. Half is half, drain 90% be left with 10% and so on. If the CYA is 200+, you pretty much need a full drain.

You drain with a submersible pump available for rent or buy one for under $100 because it's good to have on hand.

If your ground water table is high, then you exchange water where you drain and pump at the same time so the pool shell doesn't float like a boat on the ground water.

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com


And Welcome to TFP !!!
 
LMWed2018 said:
As I suspected our pool CYA is super high. The black dot never disappeared. Prior owner shocked weekly and used chlorine pucks. I removed the puck did no shocks and waited for new test kit.

The pool tested 0 chlorine, 7.8 pH, and off the charts CYA. I did not complete other tests because it was a little overwhelming but will try again.

Am I right to understand we need to drain some water, and add liquid chlorine? Pool math says 10 gallons and drain some water. Do I do both? Not sure how to drain the pool, but I’m sure the internet will help with that…I hope.
Click to expand...
The black dot never disappeared would indicate a low CYA and not high.
 
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Thank you, Oh that’s good news! I’m going to test today, and ask again based on the results to make sure I’m in the right track.

Is it possible there’s no chlorine and no CYA and the water is clear?
 
LMWed2018 said:
Is it possible there’s no chlorine and no CYA and the water is clear?
Click to expand...
Yes. No CYA and no FC goes hand in hand. Without (or with little) CYA the sun burns off whatever you add quickly.

It's also entirely possible to have algae in clear water. It's microscopic so if you can see it, it's already a runaway train as it grows exponentially. The last few growth cycles are the difference between clear water trouble brewing and a full blown swamp.

Get a conformation test on the CYA. That one befalls us all and you're brand new to it so you may have goofed.
 
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Two days ago…

Thank you @Newdude and @rack04 for your answers, advice and commentary. I re tested completing all the test for day and week. CYA result the same. So we have no FC and no CYA. In addition pool math we need Calcium and MA. I added the liquid chlorine today and have found better sources for the other through reading TFP forums. I bought Clorox brand items and am returning them.

Today, pool stabilizer arrived today!!!

Using pool math yesterday I added a gallon of liquid chlorine. Tonight’s test = it’s already all gone (wow). Correction 5.1 Cl.

I have the stabilizer and can add but I’m sure I don’t have sock big enough for 7lbs. Should I do several socks, or all tied up in a t-shirt, or one sock full at a time?

I also have the muriatic acid (baume 31.45%) is it okay to add both stabilizer and acid tonight?

My calcium should arrive tomorrow and I’ll have the chemicals pool math recommended.
 
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Get the CYA going however you see fit. If you soak it using the sock method, you’ll be able to squeeze 50% of it out after first 30-60 minutes. You can then add the rest then, if easiest. Without CYA, the FC you’re adding has no hope.

We need you to get CYA up to at least 30, and add CH. I wouldn’t worry about adding acid yet, though it won’t hurt.

Once you have CYA in the pool, we can then have you run a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see what’s growing in the water.
Do you plan to use liquid chlorine all summer? Or do you have plans for a salt water chlorine generator?
 
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I used to use both sleeves from a long sleeve Tshirt as my 'socks', needing alot of CYA with a big pool. Now I just use the Tshirt.

Screenshot_20240408_064148_Gallery.jpg
 
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Your poolmath says 20k gallons- that means you need 5# of stabilizer to reach 30ppm.
You don’t want to go higher for now. You may have a little cya already but its not enough to show.
You can fit about 2# or so at a time in a crew sock.
You can put one in each skimmer (if you have 2) until it gets mushy then go squeeze the sock infront of a running return. Retest cya after 24 hours to see where you stand.

You can immediately add 6ppm worth of liquid chlorine to reach high target for your new assumed cya.
FC/CYA Levels
That’s about 1.25 gallons of 10%

I have a hard time believing you have no cya & no ch with the history of solid forms of chlorine you mentioned as they either add cya or calcium- unless they did a full exchange recently, which is not uncommon when selling a house.
Lets make certain you’re doing the tests correctly
Watch 👇
 
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reggiehammond said:
Get the CYA going however you see fit. If you soak it using the sock method, you’ll be able to squeeze 50% of it out after first 30-60 minutes. You can then add the rest then, if easiest. Without CYA, the FC you’re adding has no hope.

We need you to get CYA up to at least 30, and add CH. I wouldn’t worry about adding acid yet, though it won’t hurt.

Once you have CYA in the pool, we can then have you run a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to see what’s growing in the water.
Do you plan to use liquid chlorine all summer? Or do you have plans for a salt water chlorine generator?
Click to expand...
I think we plan to use chlorine all summer. I’ve got to get the hang of this before adding something new.
 
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It’s been tough getting a hang of the testing and logging numbers. We upgraded pool math today, and completed the weekly test. I’m still not sure about the CYA number. I’ll run it again during daylight tomorrow. As suggested I slowly added added cya and continued cholorine (which I need to stock up on). The dry stabilizer came in 4 pound bags. I added one sock full at a time and tested 24 hours later. 1st addition maintained the chlorine for 2 days and tested CYA below 30 but the black dot disappeared with the water at the rim of the tube. On day 3 the chlorine was really low again. I did another sock of dry stabilizer and added the recommended chlorine. 24 hours later (today), pool math suggests adding more chlorine. My CYA test did better (2nd run through) my result was just slightly below 30 line. I think my pool math targets need to be adjusted… What should they be?

The walls of pool are getting green, I plan to brush tomorrow, should I be shocking the pool? What type of shock is suggested?

In total I added 3lbs Stabilizer. Once I know what my pool math targets should be I can add chlorine if pool math still suggests.

Lastly, pool math suggests baking soda and borax. I have both should I make those additions?
 
Okay from re-reading and onsite videos (thanks @reggiehammond ) I see that I need to slam because of green building on the walls of pool. I’ll research site for best product. I’m trying to figure out if my kit has what’s needed for the overnight chlorine test…. Gosh I’ll figure it out.

Will slamming increase the CYA further?
 
Oh bonkers, reading and researching for slam and FAS / DP testing, I’ve discovered what backwashing and filter cleaning actually are. I’ve found a video for our filter as a guide. I’ll have to get my husband to help. Since we’re new to the pool and have algae growing should we backwash and / or clean filter before slam?

Next question, nope I figured out TF-Pro has what I need for FAS/DPD especially since I added slam to order.

This is my plan,

Bonkers again, 1. Figure out how to get pool math to calculate slam #’s for me.

Is this how and where I get the slam target? See the picture attached.

- Used FC/CYA tool at shock level = gave me a target of 14 (for 35 cya)
- entered 14 target in pool math home page - FC calculated and used the calculated number at the bottom….. is that right?
IMG_0027.jpeg
2. Get supplies for slam (lots of liquid chlorine), and filter clean (DE) if needed. Check filter pressure and backwash and clean if needed.
3. Lower PH
4. Brush & vacuum pool
5. Start shock process.

Am I on the right track?
 
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To answer your first question. On the screenshot you provided there is a toggle to turn on SLAM option and the recommended SLAM Target FC will be shown. No additional step needed to use the FC/CYA tool. Generally, your process looks good. Here is a link for the official SLAM process. Don't stop until all three conditions are satisfied.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
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rack04 said:
To answer your first question. On the screenshot you provided there is a toggle to turn on SLAM option and the recommended SLAM Target FC will be shown. No additional step needed to use the FC/CYA tool. Generally, your process looks good. Here is a link for the official SLAM process. Don't stop until all three conditions are satisfied.

www.troublefreepool.com

SLAM - Shock Level and Maintain

We’ve all had to deal with a green pool. Clear algae from your pool with a SLAM! Read here to use shock level and maintain to clear your pool.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Thanks didn’t see the toggle. Got it!
 
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@LMWed2018
The Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is just done with the fas/dpd test in your kit. Click the link to see the instructions.

For future reference (after you complete the SLAM Process ) - your pool consumes chlorine every day so you must feed it enough chlorine so you don’t fall below minimum for your cya before your next dose or algae will grow.
An average algae free pool in Texas can consume up to 5ppm of fc per day in the peak of summer so you must dose accordingly.

If you have a smartphone you may want to use the PoolMath app for convenience.

For the cya test if the dot dissapears between two values go with the higher value.
Example- anywhere between 30 & 40 counts as 40.
 
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I’m a little perplexed and need a second opinion. Picture attached. It looks like the back flow runs underground. I’ve seen threads confirming it could be but also threads where folks with DE filters have no backwash. IMG_4411.jpeg
Am I right the backwash runs underground and I should look for its outlets when I open the slide valve?
 

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It appears so.
Some have a slide valve - allows for filter & backwash operations
Some have a multi port valve- allows for filter, backwash, recirculate, & sometimes rinse operations.
Some have no valve at all and you must manually clean their filter.
The waste pipe may run out to the edge of your yard somewhere or to the sewer, you’ll need to investigate.

Slide Valves - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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