Why is some of the tubing in my spa very discoloured?

wayner

LifeTime Supporter
May 31, 2012
830
Toronto, ON
Pool Size
100000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Here is a picture of some of the tubing in my spa. There is a rather thin tube that is very brown and feels kind of gummy. This is just after my flow switch where there is a hard plastic connector. I am not sure where this goes - perhaps someone else has an idea.

Is this an issue? Should this tubing be replaced.

My spas is a Jacuzzi J325 from 2006. I have had a bunch of work done on it through the years - the two main pumps have been replaced, and probably other stuff as well when it was serviced by the local Jacuzzi service rep.
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Most likely, the tubing goes to an ozonator.

The brown might be oxidation of the tubing by the ozone.

This reference says

"Yellow Goo" in Your Spa Ozone Tubing?

What is it, and What Can You Do About It?

Posted by Jen, Proud Owner on 2nd Nov 2017

"Yellow Goo" in your Spa Ozone Tubing is a collection of Nitric Acid.

Nitric Acid is formed when Nitrogen in the air mixes with moisture in the air.

Yellow Goo is not new!

But the one thing that did change for the better of the environment is the fact that a few years ago the tubing in the United States joined the European standard and so now tubing biodegrades!

This is great for environmentalists, but does require added awareness that hot tub owners (or their Qualified Technicians) replace Spa Ozone Tubing as frequently as they change their Spa Ozone Check Valve, which is once a year (18 at the latest).

We here at Love Your Hot Tub think it's best to remove the traditional Hartford Loop (looptie loop) in the Spa Ozone Tubing and simply make the ozone tubing go up and back down to the point of injection.

This way, there is no place for the Yellow Goo to puddle up and cause a blockage in the Tubing.

When ozone is blocked from flowing forward, it flows backwards into the Ozone Generator and will eat itself alive!

So, again, replace your Tubing and Check Valves every year, up to every 18 months if your climate is mild and not humid (ie, Spa Ozone Generators live longer in places like California, Washington, Oregon, Utah, and they live shorter lives if you live in Texas, Louisiana or Florida).

 
The formulation of nitric acid, a highly corrosive chemical, is a byproduct of the ozone generating process. Nitric acid is produced in very small quantities and is readily dissolved in the water stream with ozone.


A high output ozonator on a low flow injector (venturi) will destroy itself and possibly other equipment under the spa and clog the venturi with nitric acid goo.
I am not sure about Spa UV ozonators, but CD ozonators can generate a nitric? acid byproduct that over time can form gunk that clogs fittings in the venturi and in the tubing, these can be cleared by flushing with about 6 ounces of white vinegar every 6-12 months, just don't let any of the clear acid that may build up in the tubing get on your skin. Simply disconnect the tubing at the ozonator end and put it in a cup of vinegar and let the venturi suck it up.
 
IS CD OZONE LESS EFFECTIVE IN HIGH HUMIDITY OR HEAT?

Every piece of tech has its ups and downs. A corona discharge system can build up nitric acid in high humidity. Output can also decrease in high temps. So what does this mean, really?

Nitric acid buildup may mean you have to replace the ozone feed tube every year or so. But this is pretty easy. And what about the decrease in output? Well, here is the really good news.

Even when degraded by humidity, CD ozone output is so much higher and more stable than UV ozone, the output is still more consistent than the UV bulb. Whereas the UV bulb output will decrease every day it runs, no matter what you do!

Oh, and one more fact. DEL has continued to improve the design of our CD systems—it’s not like we are still on generation one. While UV bulb systems aren’t a lot different than twenty years ago, our CD systems have less nitric acid buildup and perform even better in high heat than in the past. There is really no comparison.


Ozone tubing contains nitric acid which is toxic and can be discharged inside the tubing. Wear gloves while servicing ozone tubing and check valves to avoid harm.


 
Thanks, it probably does go to my ozonator. How do I even know if my ozonator is still working? It is labelled Spa Necessities.
 
Some units have an indicator light to tell if it is working.

You can measure the amperage to see if it is working.

The amperage might be about 60 milliamps.

Is there a label on the unit?

Do you have the manual?
 
These look similar.

Typically, the ozone/air gets pulled in by the venturi fitting in the plumbing.



6473-124 Jacuzzi®Sundance™/General Spa Ozonator, 240 VAC, CD Ozonator
SKU: RSP-6473-124
Replace with SKU: 42-133-1432

Jacuzzi® Spas - Ozonator, 2005, 120V, 50 mg/hr, 50/60Hz - 6473-124
SKU 6473-124
$203.49

CURRENT VERSION Sundance® Spas / Jacuzzi® 6473-124A SunZone CD 240V Replaced Obsolete Gray Box 1000 ppm Corona Discharge Ozone



1710771114341.png
 
Amperage won’t tell you much. The CD unit will generate a plasma (corona) even if there is no ozone production. Only a complete failure of the electronics (no discharge) would be measureable. In some cases the unit can still use electricity and power (RF excitation) but fail to create an actual plasma split appears on the outside that it’s “working” but it’s not. Eventually the RF power components fail and the entire unit goes dead.

That original picture does not make it too clear as to where all the tubes go but the Venturi injector looks like it’s connected to the shell with a check valve in place. Are you sure that it’s not pulling air in?

Back to the original question - yellowing. It’s pretty common with flexible polyethylene tubing for it to haze and yellow from long term exposure to water and oxidizers. As the tubing ages it gets less and less flexible and eventually cracks and fails. Hot tub plumbing is very low cost to keep overall production costs low. So cheap polymer tubing is used wherever high performance isn’t necessary.
 
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Sometimes you can smell the ozone.

CD ozone produces more than UV ozone, so easier to smell.

Another question is if you even want ozone?

Yup. I can absolutely smell the ozone when it's being injected. I hate the smell. A lot of people say it smells fresh and clean. I think it smells like a wet dog. I can't wait until my ozone unit dies.
 
Ozone at ground level is a harmful air pollutant, because of its effects on people and the environment, and it is the main ingredient in “smog."

Ozone in the air we breathe can harm our health, especially on hot sunny days when ozone can reach unhealthy levels.

People at greatest risk of harm from breathing air containing ozone include people with asthma.

 
Ozone can damage the tissues of the respiratory tract, causing inflammation and irritation, and result in symptoms such as coughing, chest tightness and worsening of asthma symptoms.

In addition, ozone causes substantial damage to crops, forests and native plants.

Ozone can also damage materials such as rubber and plastics.

 
When inhaled, ozone can damage the lungs.

Relatively low amounts can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath and throat irritation.

Ozone may also worsen chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections.

People vary widely in their susceptibility to ozone.

Healthy people, as well as those with respiratory difficulty, can experience breathing problems when exposed to ozone.

 
Sometimes you can smell the ozone.

CD ozone produces more than UV ozone, so easier to smell.

Another question is if you even want ozone?
That's what I was wondering. I am guessing that it likely isn't working, I don't smell ozone when I have the panel off of the tub, as I did on the weekend.

Should there be a tube connected to the other port on the ozonator?

If it isn't working, and I don't want to replace it, then is there anything that should be removed? Does it make sense to eventually remove the ozone injector white plastic tube and just replace it with regular tubing? Or just leave everything as is until something causes problems.
 
The other port might be an air intake.

The air has to be able to get into the box.

Are there any other holes in the box?
Not that I recall. I will check the next time I take the panel off. Taking off the panel is a PITA as you have to take out about 15 screws or so. And then putting it back on you have to try to hold a fairly heavy panel while putting in the screws - not too easy to do by yourself. I wish that it had doors that were easy to open.
 
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