Recent content by TT030

Could there be a hydro-static valve in the main drain that is opening when the water table is high? I know they are more common in gunite pools, but I wonder if that is a possibility if a tear can not be found in the liner.

Opened in the Boston area late Wednesday to get a head start on cleaning it up while I have some extra free time. Water is 40 degrees and I don't have a pool heater so definitely won't be swimming anytime soon. Water is crystal clear and still had some residual chlorine left over from the late...

What Jimrahbe said. If you have automation going in it is pretty standard to have them all connected to run as one. It is not impossible to control them separately, but you will need to have a conversation with your builder about the changes mentioned above.

Don't be surprised if you end up having to set the SWG much lower than 20% with a water temp of 63. As others have suggested cold water + shorter days can significantly reduce chlorine demand.

You could do what I do if you don't mind a little extra work. I put my cover on in early to mid September due to a large amount of trees near the pool, but don't actually close/winterize the pool at that time. I bring the pool up to shock level before putting the cover on and recheck the...

That is probably the best option. There is an old vacuum hose attached to it with a host clamp, but there are no vacuum fittings attached. The only downside is the filter is on the opposite end of the pool from the spa and would be upwards of a 60' run vs maybe a 25' run from the return in the...

I want to do something a little unorthodox and figured this would be a good place to ask. I'm getting ready to drop the water level of my pool so I can winterize the lines. I also have a spa (that is completely separate from the pool) that I would like to empty and refill before the winter. That...

Pool is 79 and the spa is 104.

Looks like I might have found an answer shortly after starting this thread.

Short version of problem Tab that light fixture screws into in niche broke off. Fixture kind of stays in the niche, but it is loose and floats out if someone bumps into it. Any easy fixes that don't require the water level being dropped below the light? Complete story The underwater light below...

I guess that works. ;)

I doubt he will see the message. This is a quote from the admins on the locked part 2 thread. My opinion doesn't really matter in the long run, but the part 2 thread seemed quite civil. A bit of an overreaction on the part of this site, but they are the ones running the show. Just a shame that...

Things are looking really good now. Have only lost a total of 1.5ppm on my free chlorine in the past 72 hours. I am still closer to shock level than a normal FC level, but that will come down over time. FC = 16.5 CC = 0.5 PH = 7.2 (plan to raise this slightly) TA = 110 CYA = 65

Moving in the right direction, albeit slowly. Just completed another OCLT. Started with a FC of 21 and ended with a FC of 18 so lost 3ppm overnight. These have been performed on consecutive nights OCLT #1 = loss of 8.5ppm OCLT #2 = loss of 4.0ppm OCLT #3 = loss of 3.0ppm