Recent content by DanielJ

Have you calculated your csi? I would only mess with the ph if you needed to lower your csi value.

With a SWG in a northern climate, I find that I have to deal with a decreasing CYA level. I always have the solar cover on when we aren't swimming, so evaporative losses are minimal and with the rain that we get here, I regularly need to pump out water. That, combined with pumping down to...

We probably aren't that far apart in cost per btu. My 100 was conservative and my heater and pool are nearly double the size. Either way, I'm happy to pay it in order to extend my season on either end.

My ph doesn't change much over the winter while it's closed. It drops a bit if anything. Rain is more acidic than my pool water.

Yep, from the faucet. No need to test for cya. It will be zero.

400 - 600 a month seems high to me too. I did some back of the napkin calculations for my natural gas fired heater and figured that I would spend about $100 per month on gas with heating the pool up on weekends only. Assuming about 10 hours of heating per weekend.

Good advice from Pooldv! Regarding a safety cover, we have one and I think that it works great. It fits snugly so very little debris can get in during the winter. It is permeable, so water does not pond on it. Snow does accumulate on it, but it melts eventually. They are a bit pricy and...

In my opinion, if your ph was that stable all summer, leave it well enough alone. Lowering TA takes time so you probably won't get that done prior to closing anyway. To lower the TA, you lower the ph and then you aerate. If it makes you feel better, add MA to lower your ph before closing...

In upstate NY I keep the solar cover on whenever they pool is not is use. Not so much to keep the debris out, but certainly it helps the water stay warmer. Particularly overnight.

Hello fellow NYer! I have had a SWG for 3 seasons now. I am so glad that we chose that method of sanitation. We had made that choice before I found TFP, so I got lucky. We have had not issue with corrosion of either metals or concrete. We have brushed concrete patio around the pool. I did...

I built a pool that has the traditional deep end, but we have no diving board. I have 12 and 7 year old boys. The older kids congregate in the deep end. The younger ones stay in the shallow more. I like having both - even though it is at the sacrifice of a longer flat area.

You need stabilizer. Without it, the chlorine will be rapidly consumed by the sun.

Use pool math from this site to calculate how much bleach is needed to bring your FC up to 12 ppm. You'll need to know the volume of your pool in gallons.

If you pass the OCLT, you are done with the slam. If you pass, let the FC come down on its own. Then you just maintain FC appropriate for your CYA level. Guidance on performing the overnight chlorine loss test is in pool school. Looks great!

Parts per thousand makes more sense. In that case, salt level would be okay. Your SWG reading low salt may be because of cold water. Mine will do that too. With that, I would still follow Jason's recommendation to perform a SLAM.