Recent content by avidone1

Oh I scrubbed it and dumped in a full jug of bleach......this morning no algae. Like I said, it was just starting. I rechecked my cya level, and it was around 50 not 40 so I think that my fc was too low for the level of cya. I have to relearn every year that as the weather warms I have to...

This morning I got up and noticed a patch of yellow algae on the base of one wall. I tested the water and pool chemistry while not ideal seemed ok enough not to start algae growth. specifically the readings were; Chlorine - 2.0 PH - 7.5 Total Alkalinity - 60 hardness = 350 stabilizer - 40 water...

Yep. They gather after the rains. I use my skimmer to gather them up and then rinse them off the skimmer with the hose. Is there some automatice skimming that would eliminate this? No, I do not leave the pump on over night. My pool temp is currently 83 degrees and I am running the pump 7...

Thanks, my pool is fairly small so the savings would be neglible. I didn't know that Chlorine lost potency so quickly. Being from Florida where year round use of pools is common, I doubt that the pool store stocks are very old. I side with the convenience of using the "jug" from the pool...

Regular 'not fancy' laundry bleach has about 5% chlorine, the pool store guy says the chlorine level of the bleach he sells is around 13%. I have no way of knowing if this is true, but it does seem stronger. Is there a standard strength for pool store bleach? Is it worth the extra money over...

It's pretty hot in Florida these days, and the summer thunderstorms are here as well. I notice that at this time of year I sometimes get up in the morning to find clumps of little brown bugs on the surface of my pool. They are definetly alive and appear to be similar to an ant. I'm wondering...

I have a taylor test kit for about two years. the instructions for testing total alkalinity say that after putting in 2 drops of r0007 to then add add 5 drops of r0008. The sample should turn green, and it always has, then add R0009 untill sample turns to red.... But I needed a new bottle of...

Yes, that's it exactly...thanks.... The first nodules were scrapped off bt mne over a week ago and are still gone. I did notice a couple more this morning and scrapped them off as well. Is there a chemical ratio that is best for this condition?

About two years ago, I had my pool compeltely resurfaced. Recently I have noticed several small white 'pimples' forming on the pool wall. When I scratched a few of them it appears something is seeping through the pool wall and hardening into a white crystaline substance.....Any idea what this...

Thanks, will switch back to the muriatic.

Ok, I checked the 'blue' bottle it is sulphuric acid 38% and markedted as "fume free" . I know the 'red' bottle is muriatic acid but I don't know the concentration. Other than that they are both acids and so will lower ph, is one acid inherently better than another?

My apologies. I thought that the color coding was generic throughout the industry. I don't know much more about them except that the blue bottle doesn't has the harsh odor. I will research this soon and be more accurate in any future posts.

At the pool store, they sell two types of acid. The red bottle has a strong, harsh odor whereas the blue does not. Both seem to lower my ph equally well. I wonder is one type better than the other? A neighbor (not a pool pro) told me that the blue won't change TA but the red will. thanks.

Thanks....TFP is the best pool resource on the web.

OK, so if I understand correctly. Phosphates feed algae. By preventing algae with proper cholirination it doesn't matter what the phosphate level is. Reducing the phosphate level is therefore unnecessary. Maintaining proper chlorination to prevent algae blooms is all that is required.