Shopping List for a 1st time Pool Factory SWG ABP?

[ewwickaaa]

Good afternoon all! I'm located out in NJ, hoping to get an semi-inground pool prior to the summer season.
I'm eying the 24'x52" Saltwater 5000 Round Pool from The Pool Factory. I've read a bunch of posts here and it looks like it's been a fairly reputable vendor.
I'm hoping to not splurge a whole ton, but I know that is a purchase that I shouldn't skimp on either.

Given that it's going semi-inground, I'm really trying to get the installation right the first time around. What do you suggest, in terms of liners and pumps and systems, foams and all?

Every little bits help! Thanks!

 

[phonedave]

I bought a Saltwater 8000 from The Pool Factor last October. I cannot complain. Great pricing, quick delivery, great delivery tracker and communication. Came on one pallet (mine was a pool only, no filter) all wrapped together and stacked correctly (no heavy stuff on top of crushable stuff). The liftgate driver delivered it to my garage. No damage. Keep in mind they just sell the pool, not make the pool. I used a local installer to set it up.

So you are are in the same general area, our pools are seasonal, so that makes things different from people in say FL or TX. I also have a slightly larger pool than you, so what I use *should* work for you too.

Me, I love my DE filter (a Hayward EC40) I have a 1 HP single speed pump, and if I were buying new, then I would go to a 2 speed or a VS depending on budget.

I highly recommend a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. Mine works fine, but larger cannot hurt.

Liners, in my opinion are personal, thicker is going to last longer, but I am not convinced the price difference is always worth it. As for overlap, beaded, or J-hook, unless you are installing it yourself then what really matters is if you like the pattern or not (patterns with a waterline design, like a fake row of tiles, tend not to come in overlap because they are a pain to get straight)

Foam? I think wall foam, especially in our area, is next to useless. Foam cove on the other hand, is a game changer.

Pads - I never had one for years. I put one in this October but have not used the pool with it yet. I am hoping it creates a smoother bottom. My sand bottom gets divots from people's heels in it.

Get a solar cover, and use it. In this area it will extend your swim season greatly.

A semi-inground pool is tricky, and requires much more skill from an installer than an on-ground pool does. When I got this new pool, I debated moving to a semi-inground install. Not worth the money or hassle, especially with my geological conditions (I have a layer of sandy fill on top of organic silty clays - this area used to be marshy, and then filled with 3 feet or so of sandy fill). That layer of sandy fill quickly saturates during rains until it slowly naturally drains. Not good for any below grade pool. To be clear, there are LOTS of in ground pools in this area, but they all have dewatering systems of some type.

 

[ewwickaaa]

I bought a Saltwater 8000 from The Pool Factor last October. I cannot complain. Great pricing, quick delivery, great delivery tracker and communication. Came on one pallet (mine was a pool only, no filter) all wrapped together and stacked correctly (no heavy stuff on top of crushable stuff). The liftgate driver delivered it to my garage. No damage. Keep in mind they just sell the pool, not make the pool. I used a local installer to set it up.

So you are are in the same general area, our pools are seasonal, so that makes things different from people in say FL or TX. I also have a slightly larger pool than you, so what I use *should* work for you too.

Me, I love my DE filter (a Hayward EC40) I have a 1 HP single speed pump, and if I were buying new, then I would go to a 2 speed or a VS depending on budget.

I highly recommend a Salt Water Chlorine Generator. Mine works fine, but larger cannot hurt.

Liners, in my opinion are personal, thicker is going to last longer, but I am not convinced the price difference is always worth it. As for overlap, beaded, or J-hook, unless you are installing it yourself then what really matters is if you like the pattern or not (patterns with a waterline design, like a fake row of tiles, tend not to come in overlap because they are a pain to get straight)

Foam? I think wall foam, especially in our area, is next to useless. Foam cove on the other hand, is a game changer.

Pads - I never had one for years. I put one in this October but have not used the pool with it yet. I am hoping it creates a smoother bottom. My sand bottom gets divots from people's heels in it.

Get a solar cover, and use it. In this area it will extend your swim season greatly.

A semi-inground pool is tricky, and requires much more skill from an installer than an on-ground pool does. When I got this new pool, I debated moving to a semi-inground install. Not worth the money or hassle, especially with my geological conditions (I have a layer of sandy fill on top of organic silty clays - this area used to be marshy, and then filled with 3 feet or so of sandy fill). That layer of sandy fill quickly saturates during rains until it slowly naturally drains. Not good for any below grade pool. To be clear, there are LOTS of in ground pools in this area, but they all have dewatering systems of some type.

Hey hey! My two left feet are paralleled with my fingers needed to figure out her lefts and rights for the lefty loosey and righty tighty. Do you have any recommendations for installers? However, I'm much further south in Highstown. I've reached out on Angie's list, and local Facebook groups, but no one seems to want to do pool installations, and everyone seems to push for inground installations.

To be honest, I've been looking at the semi-ground pool because I'm hoping at some point to connect it to my current deck. That being said, I feel like my journey to the pool is more of a piecemeal journey that I'm hoping to scrape together by this spring/summer, rather than wait until next year to do the whole thing all at once. You said you put down a pad year, I'm presuming that someone was needed to come out, drain the pool, remove the liner to put down the pad? Was it worth it? How long of a season do you get?

 

[phonedave]

Hey hey! My two left feet are paralleled with my fingers needed to figure out her lefts and rights for the lefty loosey and righty tighty. Do you have any recommendations for installers? However, I'm much further south in Highstown. I've reached out on Angie's list, and local Facebook groups, but no one seems to want to do pool installations, and everyone seems to push for inground installations.

To be honest, I've been looking at the semi-ground pool because I'm hoping at some point to connect it to my current deck. That being said, I feel like my journey to the pool is more of a piecemeal journey that I'm hoping to scrape together by this spring/summer, rather than wait until next year to do the whole thing all at once. You said you put down a pad year, I'm presuming that someone was needed to come out, drain the pool, remove the liner to put down the pad? Was it worth it? How long of a season do you get?

I could tell you the installer I used, but the guy lives in town and just has a few helpers. I don't think he would want to drive an hour to install a pool in an area he does not know (in case he has to pick up sand or other materials). He is a small shop. He does installs of ABGs, and pool maintenance. In the winter he used to install pool tables, but that business dropped off, so now he just spends his time skiing.

I had a pool for 10+ years, with a sand base. A number of years ago I replaced the liner (myself) and put in foam cove and wall foam. I also regraded the sand base and compacted it. The sand base quickly developed divots in it again.

That pool started getting some rust. Enough that it was making me leery. I decided to replace the pool with a new one. Originally was going to do it myself, but I had a lot of other projects going on at the time, plus replacing the liner was a pain in the rear - not hard, just annoying. So I had somebody do it for me. I bought the pool from The Pool Factory and had the guy take down the old one and install the new one.

I did not use wall foam on the new pool, because I found it pretty much useless on my old pool. I did get a pad for the new pool (which my installer put down), because I am trying to keep the bottom smooth. I also had him use foam cove because it makes a much nicer cove. He also charges an additional charge for wall foam installation, since it is time consuming (nothing extra for foam cove or a pad)

I had this new pool installed in October of 2023 and as soon as it was filled, I closed it, so I have yet to even walk on the padded bottom, let alone see how it stands up.

I open my pool sometime in May and close it sometime in September. It depends on the weather and my schedule. Sometime I delay the closing, not because we are using the pool, but because I am waiting for the water temp to drop. Usually we are swimming May - August. Having (and using, whenever you are not using the pool) a solar cover is a game changer. Leave that cover off one night when it gets cool and your water temp will drop drastically and may not recover.

My pool deck, which does not connect to my house deck, is lower than my pool. I was debating dropping the new pool 12 inches or so to get the lip under the deck. It is simply not worth it. The money to bring in a machine to remove the soil, the torn up backyard, the extra money, the potential for ground water problems, the potential reduction in pool lifespan.

My pool deck is maybe 10" below the lip of the pool. It is not an issue. I have to do some work to make it look nice, since the new pool does not quite line up where the old pool was, but that is not a big issue.

 

[Mdragger88]

Liner-
If you are going to have a deck you may want to get a beaded liner that doesn’t require you taking the top rails off to change out the liner later.

Filters-
I have a 250# sand filter on my 25k gal pool & it does a fine job. I have no issues with disposal/drainage of backwash water on my property. If you do you may want to consider a cartridge filter as you don’t backwash those like a sand or de filter.
De filters take up little space.
Each type has its pros & cons but
With all filter types - the bigger the better! The bigger the filter the less you need to clean it.
Sand filters are generally the cheapest so if that’s the way you can afford a decent sized filter then go for it.

Pumps-
If I had a choice I’d go with a 2 speed or variable speed pump. 2 speeds are more pocketbook friendly than vsp’s they just aren’t as customizable but low speed on a 2 speed is plenty sufficient for daily filtering/operation of a simple above ground pool.

Swcg’s-
Your pool will hold approximately 13,500 gallons. We do recommend a swcg that is rated for 2x’s your pool volume. So 27k gal rated or higher.
As @phonedave mentioned in your locale with your shorter pool season & less harsh weather you may be able to get by with something smaller like a 25k gal rated system. Something with an output of 1#/day. Or possibly less.
* Here’s the deal - The larger the cell the less you have to run it & the longer it will take to use up its finite 8-10k hour lifespan in people years. The manufacturer’s gallon ratings are based on running the system at 100% 24/7 .
if you do this your cell will potentially get depleted in a few seasons and you’ll be shopping for a replacement cell sooner rather than later. Going larger is generally worthwhile monetarily for what you get fc wise.
Here’s a good comparison chart of popular systems so you can compare outputs, warranties etc. as they are not apples to apples (example: all 25k rated systems don’t necessarily have the same #/day output)

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

Example: I have a slightly undersized swcg now which leaves me needing to run my single speed pump for up to 12 hours in the peak of summer to properly chlorinate my pool - this adds up on the electric bill!
Being able to run at a lower speed would certainly lessen this burden as would a larger swcg.
The cheapest option for lowering the daily costs of operation & overall costs would be to employ both a larger swcg & a 2 speed or vsp although both options cost more on the front end.

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[VinnyinNJ]

I live close by, can't help with an installer but you may want to find out what your township requires for the pool. I wanted a DE filter, our last pool had one and I swear by them but one of the factors that I didn't want to deal with was my township now considers it hazardous waste so no more blowing it out onto an area. (and it had fingers ... I wanted grids! ) Your township may not be as strict as mine but be aware. I have a 18" Hayward sand filter and it does a good job but we also have a solar blanket on and it keeps the pool cleaner than an open pool. It can do an amazing job at keeping the water warm once it gets there maybe too warm. A pool that isn't a certain height requires a fence around it by code, you also need a self locking "gate" for the ladder ... that's the only thing my inspector checked, thankfully it worked that one time!

 

[ewwickaaa]

I could tell you the installer I used, but the guy lives in town and just has a few helpers. I don't think he would want to drive an hour to install a pool in an area he does not know (in case he has to pick up sand or other materials). He is a small shop. He does installs of ABGs, and pool maintenance. In the winter he used to install pool tables, but that business dropped off, so now he just spends his time skiing.

I had a pool for 10+ years, with a sand base. A number of years ago I replaced the liner (myself) and put in foam cove and wall foam. I also regraded the sand base and compacted it. The sand base quickly developed divots in it again.

That pool started getting some rust. Enough that it was making me leery. I decided to replace the pool with a new one. Originally was going to do it myself, but I had a lot of other projects going on at the time, plus replacing the liner was a pain in the rear - not hard, just annoying. So I had somebody do it for me. I bought the pool from The Pool Factory and had the guy take down the old one and install the new one.

I did not use wall foam on the new pool, because I found it pretty much useless on my old pool. I did get a pad for the new pool (which my installer put down), because I am trying to keep the bottom smooth. I also had him use foam cove because it makes a much nicer cove. He also charges an additional charge for wall foam installation, since it is time consuming (nothing extra for foam cove or a pad)

I had this new pool installed in October of 2023 and as soon as it was filled, I closed it, so I have yet to even walk on the padded bottom, let alone see how it stands up.

I open my pool sometime in May and close it sometime in September. It depends on the weather and my schedule. Sometime I delay the closing, not because we are using the pool, but because I am waiting for the water temp to drop. Usually we are swimming May - August. Having (and using, whenever you are not using the pool) a solar cover is a game changer. Leave that cover off one night when it gets cool and your water temp will drop drastically and may not recover.

My pool deck, which does not connect to my house deck, is lower than my pool. I was debating dropping the new pool 12 inches or so to get the lip under the deck. It is simply not worth it. The money to bring in a machine to remove the soil, the torn up backyard, the extra money, the potential for ground water problems, the potential reduction in pool lifespan.

My pool deck is maybe 10" below the lip of the pool. It is not an issue. I have to do some work to make it look nice, since the new pool does not quite line up where the old pool was, but that is not a big issue.

Thanks so much! Sorry for the late reply! I'm definitely now trying to reason with my husband to splurge for 3 extra feet as well as the all resin, given that I'm dropping it in so deep. Is it just me or have you also found that it's also absurdly hard to find someone to do a one-stop-shop for AGP. I'm in the midst of getting an install, electrician, landscaping (for backfill) and possibly a deck quotes. It seems like no one wants to do AGP installs and their first question is always, "Is it an Intex pool? If no, no. kthxbye." And it's starting to look like the labor is going to cost more than the pool itself. We're definitely going to get the solar cover, so that deck is going to be a much needed accessory to lug that cover off.

Speaking of the deck, Does the lip of the pool go above the deck? I've been hearing both from both pool and deck companies. But if someone wanted to sit on the deck and dip their feet in the pool, will that affect the rail, because I know we're not supposed to sit on the rail? Our pre-existing deck is actually 26" off the ground, so it seems like a no-brainer for us to expand the deck to present the illusion of the flush/inground pool. I'm definitely nervous about rust happening with the Saltwater 5000 or even the 8000 and the putting it semi-inground. Do you think the lifespan of the pool will be infinite if we did splurge for the all resin pool? It didn't seem like there were a lot stories about the Aurora dug into the ground, mainly their longevity.

 

[phonedave]

Thanks so much! Sorry for the late reply! I'm definitely now trying to reason with my husband to splurge for 3 extra feet as well as the all resin, given that I'm dropping it in so deep. Is it just me or have you also found that it's also absurdly hard to find someone to do a one-stop-shop for AGP. I'm in the midst of getting an install, electrician, landscaping (for backfill) and possibly a deck quotes. It seems like no one wants to do AGP installs and their first question is always, "Is it an Intex pool? If no, no. kthxbye." And it's starting to look like the labor is going to cost more than the pool itself. We're definitely going to get the solar cover, so that deck is going to be a much needed accessory to lug that cover off.

Speaking of the deck, Does the lip of the pool go above the deck? I've been hearing both from both pool and deck companies. But if someone wanted to sit on the deck and dip their feet in the pool, will that affect the rail, because I know we're not supposed to sit on the rail? Our pre-existing deck is actually 26" off the ground, so it seems like a no-brainer for us to expand the deck to present the illusion of the flush/inground pool. I'm definitely nervous about rust happening with the Saltwater 5000 or even the 8000 and the putting it semi-inground. Do you think the lifespan of the pool will be infinite if we did splurge for the all resin pool? It didn't seem like there were a lot stories about the Aurora dug into the ground, mainly their longevity.

There are very few one stop shop above ground pool companies because it is a lot of different trades, some of which require a license, as well as specialized tools and equipment. If, for example, somebody tool enough time and money to set themselves up as an electrician with the skills, licenses, and equipment to install electric for ABG, they would be much better off being an electrician than a ABG installer.

Very often the pool owner is stuck acting as a general contractor. But this site is very good at helping you walk that path.

There are pros and cons about where you put the deck. Below the lip allows you to remove the top rail for liner changes and other maintenance. If you put the deck over the rail, it can be a cleaner look, but just make sure you are using a beaded liner, or else you will need to rip up your deck boards to change it later.

My deck used to be just below my top rails. Now it is about 8" below my top rails because I put in a taller pool. I though about sinking the new pool into the ground - for about 5 seconds. The cost and effort is not worth it in my opinion.

Rust is going to happen to metal no matter where you put the pool. I thought about an Aurora, and finally decided on a SW 5000 because I did not think the extra longevity was worth it - in my case. This is not my retirement home. I'm looking at a 15-20 year window, maybe. Not worth the extra cost for me.

Groundwater becomes an issue when you bury a pool. You want to channel it away from the area surrounding the pool. How you do that is going to depend on the slope of your land, the type of soil, and what your typical rains look like.

 

[ewwickaaa]

Liner-
If you are going to have a deck you may want to get a beaded liner that doesn’t require you taking the top rails off to change out the liner later.

Filters-
I have a 250# sand filter on my 25k gal pool & it does a fine job. I have no issues with disposal/drainage of backwash water on my property. If you do you may want to consider a cartridge filter as you don’t backwash those like a sand or de filter.
De filters take up little space.
Each type has its pros & cons but
With all filter types - the bigger the better! The bigger the filter the less you need to clean it.
Sand filters are generally the cheapest so if that’s the way you can afford a decent sized filter then go for it.

Pumps-
If I had a choice I’d go with a 2 speed or variable speed pump. 2 speeds are more pocketbook friendly than vsp’s they just aren’t as customizable but low speed on a 2 speed is plenty sufficient for daily filtering/operation of a simple above ground pool.

Swcg’s-
Your pool will hold approximately 13,500 gallons. We do recommend a swcg that is rated for 2x’s your pool volume. So 27k gal rated or higher.
As @phonedave mentioned in your locale with your shorter pool season & less harsh weather you may be able to get by with something smaller like a 25k gal rated system. Something with an output of 1#/day. Or possibly less.
* Here’s the deal - The larger the cell the less you have to run it & the longer it will take to use up its finite 8-10k hour lifespan in people years. The manufacturer’s gallon ratings are based on running the system at 100% 24/7 .
if you do this your cell will potentially get depleted in a few seasons and you’ll be shopping for a replacement cell sooner rather than later. Going larger is generally worthwhile monetarily for what you get fc wise.
Here’s a good comparison chart of popular systems so you can compare outputs, warranties etc. as they are not apples to apples (example: all 25k rated systems don’t necessarily have the same #/day output)

Compare and Review Saltwater Chlorine Generator Prices and Features | DSP

www.discountsaltpool.com

Example: I have a slightly undersized swcg now which leaves me needing to run my single speed pump for up to 12 hours in the peak of summer to properly chlorinate my pool - this adds up on the electric bill!
Being able to run at a lower speed would certainly lessen this burden as would a larger swcg.
The cheapest option for lowering the daily costs of operation & overall costs would be to employ both a larger swcg & a 2 speed or vsp although both options cost more on the front end.

How to select pool equipment - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Gotcha. I'll look into both the cartridge filters, especially if you're telling me that it's less work. But I'll definitely look into that. When I talked to the township they didn't say anything about filters... so I might see if that's okay.

In terms of liner, I was thinking about splurging for the Round Uni-Bead Beach Haven Liner - 40 Gauge. This way, it'll be thicker. Is that the beading you're talking about?

Will definitely take the SWCG advice. I feel like I'm at the point of "TAKE MY MONEY". But I guess the upfront cost is inevitable.

Thanks!

 

[Mdragger88]

For liner if that’s the gauge the pattern you like comes in go for it. Any 20 mil & thicker should last a long time.

The unibead part will not be any thicker.
You want to hang the liner on the bead receiver - not j hook style over the pool wall so that you don’t need to remove top rails to replace it in the future. So be sure to buy & install a bead receiver.

 

[ewwickaaa]

There are very few one stop shop above ground pool companies because it is a lot of different trades, some of which require a license, as well as specialized tools and equipment. If, for example, somebody tool enough time and money to set themselves up as an electrician with the skills, licenses, and equipment to install electric for ABG, they would be much better off being an electrician than a ABG installer.

Very often the pool owner is stuck acting as a general contractor. But this site is very good at helping you walk that path.

There are pros and cons about where you put the deck. Below the lip allows you to remove the top rail for liner changes and other maintenance. If you put the deck over the rail, it can be a cleaner look, but just make sure you are using a beaded liner, or else you will need to rip up your deck boards to change it later.

My deck used to be just below my top rails. Now it is about 8" below my top rails because I put in a taller pool. I though about sinking the new pool into the ground - for about 5 seconds. The cost and effort is not worth it in my opinion.

Rust is going to happen to metal no matter where you put the pool. I thought about an Aurora, and finally decided on a SW 5000 because I did not think the extra longevity was worth it - in my case. This is not my retirement home. I'm looking at a 15-20 year window, maybe. Not worth the extra cost for me.

Groundwater becomes an issue when you bury a pool. You want to channel it away from the area surrounding the pool. How you do that is going to depend on the slope of your land, the type of soil, and what your typical rains look like.

WAITTTT! Hard pause. Can the pool last 15-20 years semi-inground? This changes things. We haven't figured out if this is our forever home... but we were worried if the pool was only going to last 5-10 years. We didn't want the pool to hold up inspections or whatnot, and if we build the deck around the pool, no one is going to buy a house with a deck with a giant hole in the middle. haha. If the pool is going to last longer than 10 year, we might just end up getting the 5000 instead, we were nervous about the rust or the resellability of the house should that pool rust or whatnot. To be honest, I feel like a lot of the reviews here do have that 5-10 year lifespan which gets me a but wary about going about this project, especially putting it inground. But we seriously can't envision the pool 100% above ground.

Also, if the groundwater something the pool installation people will talk about? I've really been just speaking to them over the phone and they just ask "How big? Circle or Oval? How deep?" then go "$X" TBH, is $3100 - $3500 a reasonable price for install, before backfill? Or should I keep looking?

 

[ewwickaaa]

The unibead part will not be any thicker.
You want to hang the liner on the bead receiver - not j hook style over the pool wall so that you don’t need to remove top rails to replace it in the future. So be sure to buy & install a bead receiver.

View attachment 562318

ETA: Never mind. I found the item to add to my cart. Thanks!

Are bead receivers part of the pool or is that a separate purchase?

 

[ewwickaaa]

I live close by, can't help with an installer but you may want to find out what your township requires for the pool. I wanted a DE filter, our last pool had one and I swear by them but one of the factors that I didn't want to deal with was my township now considers it hazardous waste so no more blowing it out onto an area. (and it had fingers ... I wanted grids! ) Your township may not be as strict as mine but be aware. I have a 18" Hayward sand filter and it does a good job but we also have a solar blanket on and it keeps the pool cleaner than an open pool. It can do an amazing job at keeping the water warm once it gets there maybe too warm. A pool that isn't a certain height requires a fence around it by code, you also need a self locking "gate" for the ladder ... that's the only thing my inspector checked, thankfully it worked that one time!

Will look into the filters for my township! We're definitely going to look into a solar blanket. But did you get a heater? I've been told to test it for a season prior to committing to it, but wanted to get an census from the neighbors. I'm getting a pool compliant fence around the whole property. But we're struggling to find a stairs to get into the pool, especially if it's going to be dig into the ground. Most stairs are set for the 48"-54". We might just have to learn how to pole vault into the pool.

 

[Mdragger88]

You may need to build a platform/steps & forego the traditional ladder on the outside depending upon how deep your pool is buried. Or “modify” what you buy - which is a little hard to swallow since they’re so expensive.
Before my deck was built I just used my spa steps. I have big wedding cake steps in the pool. My knees & cankles can’t handle the ladder style anymore. I also wanted somewhere for the kids to sit in the pool when they needed a quick rest without blocking the exit/entrance.

 

[VinnyinNJ]

Will look into the filters for my township! We're definitely going to look into a solar blanket. But did you get a heater? I've been told to test it for a season prior to committing to it, but wanted to get an census from the neighbors. I'm getting a pool compliant fence around the whole property. But we're struggling to find a stairs to get into the pool, especially if it's going to be dig into the ground. Most stairs are set for the 48"-54". We might just have to learn how to pole vault into the pool.

Our pool season is typically Memorial Day to the week after Labor Day, we may open the pool a week or two before Memorial Day but the closing season is pretty strict because the leaves from the trees start dropping usually. No heater, we're cheap! But during summer months (about late June to Labor Day) the pool is usually in the mid to upper 80's and sometimes in the 90's with just a solar cover. Seriously, the cost of the heater and running a gas line just doesn't seem worth it, neither does running a heater on electric for an AG pool. When we priced out an IG pool we did have a heater quoted. But we have a short season based on our needs; if someone plans on opening up in the beginning of May and swimming until the beginning of October a heater might/will be needed.

Here's my thoughts on the ladder. If you are sinking the pool and putting a deck around it then I would say that if you can swing it, do both at the same time. If just the pool is this year and you have to pass inspections you may not pass. I'm not very knowledgeable on pool codes let alone one with a high "pool safe" fence. I have a 3 1/2 foot high chain link and it was required my ladder/steps had a self closing, lockable gate associated with it. Now if no inspections are being done then you can probably build a set of deck stairs to the correct height temporarily and attach the pool steps to it. I just want to caution that this is a drowning hazard which is why pool codes are what they are. AND this will not pass pool codes at all. Inside the pool the steps will accommodate the depth of the pool.

 

[Mdragger88]

About the burying- by ground water he means drainage- the water that comes from the rest of the property when it rains (off your roof etc.) and subsequently collects around your buried pool in the ground before it dissipates.
I should have installed french drains but I didn’t & thought the natural slope of my property would be enough to encourage drainage away from the pool walls - it is not.
Now I have a deck to work around and part of it I cannot get underneath. I will have to settle for a french drain completely around my deck to adequately divert the water. Don’t be like me lol - just do the French drain even if you think you don’t need it.

 

[Newdude]

Now if no inspections are being done then you can probably build a set of deck stairs to the correct height temporarily and attach the pool steps to it

My pool area was fenced so this was ok. It also doubled as benches

 

[ewwickaaa]

You may need to build a platform/steps & forego the traditional ladder on the outside depending upon how deep your pool is buried. Or “modify” what you buy - which is a little hard to swallow since they’re so expensive.
Before my deck was built I just used my spa steps. I have big wedding cake steps in the pool. My knees & cankles can’t handle the ladder style anymore. I also wanted somewhere for the kids to sit in the pool when they needed a quick rest without blocking the exit/entrance.
View attachment 562330

Yea. We're looking at the wedding cake stairs too. My noncreative mind just didn't realize that I could just use a small stool. Haha. I clearly am thinking too hard about all this and don't have enough coffee to see this simple solution. Does your stairs move when it's in there, or do you have to weight them down? btw, this is extactly how i'm envisioning my pool, but I see that you splurged for the all resin, so now I do feel like I want it as well....

 

[ewwickaaa]

Our pool season is typically Memorial Day to the week after Labor Day, we may open the pool a week or two before Memorial Day but the closing season is pretty strict because the leaves from the trees start dropping usually. No heater, we're cheap! But during summer months (about late June to Labor Day) the pool is usually in the mid to upper 80's and sometimes in the 90's with just a solar cover. Seriously, the cost of the heater and running a gas line just doesn't seem worth it, neither does running a heater on electric for an AG pool. When we priced out an IG pool we did have a heater quoted. But we have a short season based on our needs; if someone plans on opening up in the beginning of May and swimming until the beginning of October a heater might/will be needed.

Here's my thoughts on the ladder. If you are sinking the pool and putting a deck around it then I would say that if you can swing it, do both at the same time. If just the pool is this year and you have to pass inspections you may not pass. I'm not very knowledgeable on pool codes let alone one with a high "pool safe" fence. I have a 3 1/2 foot high chain link and it was required my ladder/steps had a self closing, lockable gate associated with it. Now if no inspections are being done then you can probably build a set of deck stairs to the correct height temporarily and attach the pool steps to it. I just want to caution that this is a drowning hazard which is why pool codes are what they are. AND this will not pass pool codes at all. Inside the pool the steps will accommodate the depth of the pool.

Haha. Trust me, I'm cheap too. My husband totally hates that I've gone down this rabbit hole. And him finding out that I found this community to help me get the answer.... Haha. He's going to get a shock when I finally check out my shopping cart. Interesting about the inspections....They said as long as I had a pool compliant fence (48") around it, I'm good to go.... even if the fence is around the whole property. But if it doesn't pass, guess we'll just have to pull more overtime to get that deck in ASAP. Although, one of the pool installers I spoke to emphasized the importance of putting the fence, pool and deck on 3 separate permit applications, so that one doesn't hold up the other.
I'll definitely splurge on that solar cover, I'm just nervous about tugging that thing on and off without the deck. But it'll be huge learning curve.

 

[ewwickaaa]

My pool area was fenced so this was ok. It also doubled as benches

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ooooh those stairs look great! Is it safe to presume that you or another very skilled woodworker built them and they weren't store bought?