I have been battling getting my TA down. 2 gallons of MA over the past week to get to around 90. PH has been 7.4 - 7.8 after everything settles. I tested the source water and TA is 140-160 ish. Will I constantly be battling this? Pool was completed last fall. Is this because of a new build. I have not had to use source water for a while, but since getting ready for opening I have been trying to lower TA. My source water TC 3.0 CC 0 PH 7.6 TA 140. Located DFW area. I have Brockovich water.
Anna, TX
- Thread starter jerry.huwe
- Start date
Greetings got to enjoy our pool for a couple weeks prior to it getting too cold last summer/fall.
14k gallon 18x32 free form gunite. Battling High TA currently.
14k gallon 18x32 free form gunite. Battling High TA currently.
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Been trying to lower it over the last 2 weeks and am at 80-90 and 2 gallons of MA so far.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,731
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Hey neighbor. Good looking pool and if you have to battle one of the metrics, TA is the one I would pick since its the least impactful.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,600
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- 35000
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Yes, keeping your TA down will be a constant battle when you replace water due to evaporation.
My Ph usually hovers around 8, but with so much MA being added I feel like I will be spending a fortune. How often should I be testing and adding? Daily seems excessive for adding MA. I don't want to have hotspots from the Acid.
Yes I dilute and pour at a couple different returns. Im adding 1/3 gallon at a time since its so high.
I have not had to replace a ton since install, just recalled on here someone stating know how the source water effects the pool is good to know.
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,731
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- 13000
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Interesting. 1/3 of a gallon should lower your pH by 0.7 and lower your TA by 11.0.
If you have added 2 gallons over the last 2 weeks, your TA was lowered by 72
How are you testing your water, and what else are you putting in your pool?
If you have added 2 gallons over the last 2 weeks, your TA was lowered by 72
How are you testing your water, and what else are you putting in your pool?
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,731
- Pool Size
- 13000
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Good answer. At 90 your TA is in range, but I guess you can keep lowering it until it gets closer to 60 but don't go too much lower.
Do you have water features or anything that is aerating the water? That would cause your pH to rise so limit those features.
You and I have the same water source and my TA is even a bit higher than yours, but I can go weeks/months without adding acid. If I lower mine to 7.4 it will quickly rise to 7.6 or 7.8 in a few days, but 7.8 to 8.0 takes weeks or more. Make sure you are not micro managing your pH as I've seen people drive themselves crazy by trying to keep their pH at 7.6.
Do you have water features or anything that is aerating the water? That would cause your pH to rise so limit those features.
You and I have the same water source and my TA is even a bit higher than yours, but I can go weeks/months without adding acid. If I lower mine to 7.4 it will quickly rise to 7.6 or 7.8 in a few days, but 7.8 to 8.0 takes weeks or more. Make sure you are not micro managing your pH as I've seen people drive themselves crazy by trying to keep their pH at 7.6.
We do have water features, but they only run on freeze protect. They ran a few days ago, but I dont run them unless the boss requests it. I have been focusing on TA trying to get it in ideal range. I just thought it was getting a bit outrageous putting that much MA in. I will be testing the rest of the week to see if it stays in range.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,259
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- 12300
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It can take a lot of acid (lowering pH to 7.2 and allowing to rise to 7.8 before adding more acid) to get the TA from 140 to 60-ish. Once at 60-ish, it will take less to maintain that TA. Adding high TA fill water and keeping the TA at your desired level will require more frequent acid additions than if using lower TA fill water. Not much you can do about your fill water TA except dose your chemicals accordingly to stay at the desired levels.
Only run your water features when necessary - or once per week for 5-10 minutes to refresh the water in the pipes.
Only run your water features when necessary - or once per week for 5-10 minutes to refresh the water in the pipes.
So I should try to get to the lower side of the ideal range? Then maintain there??
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,259
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- 12300
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A TA in the 60-ish range may work best. This will help minimize pH rise.
Do not dilute the acid in water prior to adding to the pool. No need to double handle the acid. Add the acid directly to the pool in a pencil sized stream at a running return. Brush the area gently after the addition.
What is the CH of your fill water?
Post a full set of current test results - or tie your forum account and PoolMath together so your results show here.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature
kul
Bronze Supporter
- Oct 1, 2021
- 1,307
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You mention you dilute your MA before adding? Can you explain how you do that and why? You don’t need to dilute it.
Oh wait, someone else also caught this.
disregard.
Oh wait, someone else also caught this.
disregard.+1 to all the above. Pour slowly and brush well after because its heavier than water and *might* puddle up on the bottom. It'll mix fine on its own.