Keep Getting Algae

mavitia22

Well-known member
Jun 27, 2023
61
La Vernia, Tx
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
Hello, All.

So, this is probably the 5th time I get algae this season. I'm just confused and wondering what I'm doing wrong. Here are my #s:
FC - 6
CC - 0.5
PH - 7.8
TA - 70
CH - 160
CYA - 40
Temp - 75°
SALT -3000

FC has been consistently at 6, and I thought that was in range for CYA 40. I decided not to raise CYA again after my last outbreak because of the cooler weather coming.
What am I doing wrong? Could it be bad circulation? I try to brush it and move the water every day. Might miss a day here and there. I vacuum it. The water is super clear.
Or, does a higher PH make the chlorine less effective? I've kept my PH at 7.8 because lowering it really lowers CSI.

It's always just 1 or 2 small green spots on the walls. Usually in areas that don't get much from the jets. But I've moved them around to find the bes
 
Hello, All.

So, this is probably the 5th time I get algae this season. I'm just confused and wondering what I'm doing wrong. Here are my #s:
FC - 6
CC - 0.5
PH - 7.8
TA - 70
CH - 160
CYA - 40
Temp - 75°
SALT -3000

FC has been consistently at 6, and I thought that was in range for CYA 40. I decided not to raise CYA again after my last outbreak because of the cooler weather coming.
What am I doing wrong? Could it be bad circulation? I try to brush it and move the water every day. Might miss a day here and there. I vacuum it. The water is super clear.
Or, does a higher PH make the chlorine less effective? I've kept my PH at 7.8 because lowering it really lowers CSI.

It's always just 1 or 2 small green spots on the walls. Usually in areas that don't get much from the jets. But I've moved them around to find the bes
Sorry, I posted accidentally before I finished..
Continued...
I've tried different settings on the jets, but there will always be some areas that don't get circulation.

So, any help is appreciated. Thank you!
 
Algae is really super simple to understand.

If you get algae, the FC is being allowed to go too low at some point.

Brushing and circulation make some difference, but if you get algae, the FC is not being maintained at a good level.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
I caught my SWG shutting off due to low salt for 12 hours, 7 or 8 times this season after/during heavy rains. They run a self test daily or twice daily and while the odds of a bad storm hitting just so are low, over a full season there are many chances. I ended up power cycling it at 3:30 PM so I can check it when I get home from work if we had big rains that day. Or If I wake up with evidence of a flood overnight I detour out back before going to work to see if the 3:30 AM self check failed.

The closer you run to minimum, the closer you have to pay attention as a 3 or 4 FC buffer can be depleted on one sunny afternoon. A power flicker while everyone is at work is all it takes to knock the SWG out for the day. The next day or a few days later when you test, things look fine if you made up the lost FC, without telling you the story of being low.

Due to unforseen swings, we added a range to the SWG chart last winter so people weren't trying to zero in on a 5, with no room for hiccups. Many of us target the high side and allow it to over produce on low loss days. When hiccups hit, we fall back into target range and remain clear.

swcg_chart.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: kul
Algae is really super simple to understand.

If you get algae, the FC is being allowed to go too low at some point.

Brushing and circulation make some difference, but if you get algae, the FC is not being maintained at a good level.
So with CYA at 40, the target is 3-7. That's why I'm confused that I'm still getting algae with FC at 6. Even though it might've dropped at some point, wouldn't FC at 3 or 4 still be sufficient? Should I be testing more than once a day to make sure I don't miss a drop in FC?
I caught my SWG shutting off due to low salt for 12 hours, 7 or 8 times this season after/during heavy rains. They run a self test daily or twice daily and while the odds of a bad storm hitting just so are low, over a full season there are many chances. I ended up power cycling it at 3:30 PM so I can check it when I get home from work if we had big rains that day. Or If I wake up with evidence of a flood overnight I detour out back before going to work to see if the 3:30 AM self check failed.

The closer you run to minimum, the closer you have to pay attention as a 3 or 4 FC buffer can be depleted on one sunny afternoon. A power flicker while everyone is at work is all it takes to knock the SWG out for the day. The next day or a few days later when you test, things look fine if you made up the lost FC, without telling you the story of being low.

Due to unforseen swings, we added a range to the SWG chart last winter so people weren't trying to zero in on a 5, with no room for hiccups. Many of us target the high side and allow it to over produce on low loss days. When hiccups hit, we fall back into target range and remain clear.

View attachment 535012
Ok, thank you. Makes sense. So, just quickly reiterating my question about the ph...
Does keeping it high at 7.8 affect the effectiveness of the chlorine? I leave it at that # because it helps with CSI. Do I need to be adding acid more often?
 
That's why I'm confused that I'm still getting algae with FC at 6
You're testing a 6 which is fine at that moment but It's clearly dipping/swinging at some point. What part of the day do you test in relation to SWG production ? Most SWG schedules allow swing and that always needs to be factored in. For example, a short run time due to a very oversized cell, or night time only production for off peak electric rates.

Another example is my 24/7 runtime. I produce evenly across 24 hours but lose 100% of my daily FC in 6 to 8 hours. The SWG can't keep up mid day and takes all night to catch up. Raising the target makes it a moot point when it swings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kul and .ben
You're testing a 6 which is fine at that moment but It's clearly dipping/swinging at some point. What part of the day do you test in relation to SWG production ? Most SWG schedules allow swing and that always needs to be factored in. For example, a short run time due to a very oversized cell, or night time only production for off peak electric rates.

Another example is my 24/7 runtime. I produce evenly across 24 hours but lose 100% of my daily FC in 6 to 8 hours. The SWG can't keep up mid day and takes all night to catch up. Raising the target makes it a moot point when it swings.
I usually test around 2 or 3 pm. I run SWG 11 hours, from 9 am to 8 pm at 60%. I recently lowered the output to 60% since it's not so hot anymore.
 
I usually test around 2 or 3 pm. I run SWG 11 hours, from 9 am to 8 pm at 60%
Ok GREAT. So you're roughly testing at the low FC point of the day. The SWG lost ground from 10A to 2P and runs 5 to 6 hours after you test, then again in the morning before the sun gets crazy again.

In this case, maybe you're 10 or 20 off on the CYA because we're friends and can be honest with each other about that test. :ROFLMAO:. Normally, being 10 or so off isn't enough to swamp you, but maybe the TX sun tips the scales.

Or something is killing production occasionally and it's not noticed if you miss testing that day.

Or there is algae hiding in plain sight that was missed with a previous SLAM. Ladder rails, light niches, skimmer foam, auto fills, etc could be reintroducing old algae and the SWG is keeping it mostly at bay.

Is there environmental debris on anything else like your cars ? We started here about a month ago and I'm still getting dustings some days. It's probably time for you now.
 
I like to keep things simple. While I cannot explain why you are getting algae, we all know algae is caused by low chlorine. It could be a circulation thing, testing error, bird poop, environment, aliens, etc.

The simple solution is to bump up your chlorine. 6 isn't working so try shooting for 8-10. At CYA of 40 you can go all the way up to 16 and still be able to swim. If you look at my avatar, I love me some chlorine because I never have to worry about algae.
 
22,

I suspect that you never got rid of the algae you original had before going with the TFP process.

Once you get algae, keeping the FC at 6 is not going to kill it.

If you have algae, you must do a full SLAM to kill it all.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Ok GREAT. So you're roughly testing at the low FC point of the day. The SWG lost ground from 10A to 2P and runs 5 to 6 hours after you test, then again in the morning before the sun gets crazy again.

In this case, maybe you're 10 or 20 off on the CYA because we're friends and can be honest with each other about that test. :ROFLMAO:. Normally, being 10 or so off isn't enough to swamp you, but maybe the TX sun tips the scales.

Or something is killing production occasionally and it's not noticed if you miss testing that day.

Or there is algae hiding in plain sight that was missed with a previous SLAM. Ladder rails, light niches, skimmer foam, auto fills, etc could be reintroducing old algae and the SWG is keeping it mostly at bay.

Is there environmental debris on anything else like your cars ? We started here about a month ago and I'm still getting dustings some days. It's probably time for you now.
Yes, I believe my CYA results are never accurate. In total, I've added 3 gallons of liquid stabilizer, which should've put it above 60. But, I've drained out water a few times here and there because I had a drainage issue. When it would rain, all the water from my patio would fill the pool. Anyway, had it fixed just 2 weeks ago. So, I don't know if my testing is ever accurate or not. 🤷‍♀️
Also, I have a lot of leaves and sand that blow into the pool. Could be that.
 
22,

I suspect that you never got rid of the algae you original had before going with the TFP process.

Once you get algae, keeping the FC at 6 is not going to kill it.

If you have algae, you must do a full SLAM to kill it all.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Yes, going full SLAM. I have done a SLAM every time I've had algae. Maybe I'm not doing enough days. I'm gonna try for passing 2 overnights tests before I stop this one. Thanks!
 
I like to keep things simple. While I cannot explain why you are getting algae, we all know algae is caused by low chlorine. It could be a circulation thing, testing error, bird poop, environment, aliens, etc.

The simple solution is to bump up your chlorine. 6 isn't working so try shooting for 8-10. At CYA of 40 you can go all the way up to 16 and still be able to swim. If you look at my avatar, I love me some chlorine because I never have to worry about algae.
Also, I have to be honest. I'm a little scared to have the FC consistently so high. Don't know if that would have any kind of effect on the fiberglass gelcoat. Any thoughts on that?
 
Could be that.
We can Monday morning quarterback all day long, but whatever it was, inadequate sanitation is always the root of the problem. Your pool is telling you that 6 isn't cutting it. @JJ_Tex and myself run 10s and have all the wiggle room in the world for whatever the universe throws our way. Sometimes it's environmental debris, or a big storm, a get together, or a particularly high UV day. We don't know and don't care because we're covered.
I'm a little scared to have the FC consistently so high. Don't know if that would have any kind of effect on the fiberglass gelcoat. Any thoughts on that?
That's the best part. SLAM level FC for your CYA has a lower available HOCL concentration (the harsh part) than tap water with 0 CYA and 1 ppm FC. Tap water may have up to *4* ppm FC at times. Thanks to the CYA your pool is less harsh than tap water, even at SLAM.

SLAM for visible algae and raise the target going forward. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: JamesW
We can Monday morning quarterback all day long, but whatever it was, inadequate sanitation is always the root of the problem. Your pool is telling you that 6 isn't cutting it. @JJ_Tex and myself run 10s and have all the wiggle room in the world for whatever the universe throws our way. Sometimes it's environmental debris, or a big storm, a get together, or a particularly high UV day. We don't know and don't care because we're covered.

That's the best part. SLAM level FC for your CYA has a lower available HOCL concentration (the harsh part) than tap water with 0 CYA and 1 ppm FC. Tap water may have up to *4* ppm FC at times. Thanks to the CYA your pool is less harsh than tap water, even at SLAM.

SLAM for visible algae and raise the target going forward. :)
Thanks. I know I've read that here before, but I tend to still get paranoid. Thanks for the reassurance. 😊
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Thanks. I know I've read that here before, but I tend to still get paranoid. Thanks for the reassurance. 😊
My doctor said our chronic health problems had nothing to do with high chlorine. I even think my high chlorine helped clear up the 11th toe that was starting to grow on my son's foot.

:laughblue:

Seriously though, SLAM and make sure and kill all of the algae then run your FC higher than target next year and you should have a clear and healthy trouble free pool next swim season.
 
My doctor said our chronic health problems had nothing to do with high chlorine. I even think my high chlorine helped clear up the 11th toe that was starting to grow on my son's foot.

:laughblue:

Seriously though, SLAM and make sure and kill all of the algae then run your FC higher than target next year and you should have a clear and healthy trouble free pool next swim season.
😂 Good to know. Thanks again!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JJ_Tex
We can Monday morning quarterback all day long, but whatever it was, inadequate sanitation is always the root of the problem. Your pool is telling you that 6 isn't cutting it. @JJ_Tex and myself run 10s and have all the wiggle room in the world for whatever the universe throws our way. Sometimes it's environmental debris, or a big storm, a get together, or a particularly high UV day. We don't know and don't care because we're covered.

That's the best part. SLAM level FC for your CYA has a lower available HOCL concentration (the harsh part) than tap water with 0 CYA and 1 ppm FC. Tap water may have up to *4* ppm FC at times. Thanks to the CYA your pool is less harsh than tap water, even at SLAM.

SLAM for visible algae and raise the target going forward. :)
One more thing on this...the reason I was also wary about the high FC on the gelcoat is because the skimmer cover/face plate is faded from previous SLAMs. Its original color is gray, but now it's very light gray, almost white, below the waterline, which I noticed happened when I raised FC to shock level.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.