Do I need to drain my pool?

[leofeld]

Just some background:
Hi I'm new here and new to pool care. I've had someone taking care of the pool since I've had it. He seemed a little unreliable as of late and the pool starting turning green right as summer was coming in. He spent about two months trying to fix it then basically ghosted me.
I had someone else come to try and fix it and I ultimately paid him a good amount of money without getting the desired results.
I decided at that point to try and fix it on my own. I was able to balance the pool and getting it blue, but it was still very cloudy.
I have a cartridge filter and can't vacuum to waste. Whenever I tried to vacuum, white clouds would poof up and then immediately be shot back through the jets, as if the filter isn't catching any of it. When the water settles it will settle like tissue paper but immediately cloud up into a million particles when disturbed
Do I have to drain the pool this point to get rid of it?

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! I'm not hearing anything just yet that would warrant draining your pool, especially this time of year. Our first place to start would be a full set of water test results, either from a TF-Series test kit (link in my signature) or a Taylor K-2006C. If you can post a full set of results from one of those we can surely help you.

Also be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics for lots of great info.

 

[Texas Splash]

If you don't have on of those kits yet, I encourage you to get one. In the meantime, add about 5 ppm of liquid chlorine to the water each day. You can use the PoolMath APP to help you with the dosage amounts.

Also be sure to update your signature. See the link below and my sig as an example.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Welcome!

Invest in a good kit. The kits from tftestkits.net offer the best value for the home pool owner.

We won't ghost you. Post up your results and we'll help you out.

 

[leofeld]

I have the Taylor k2005c test kit. I've been frustrated so haven't worked on pool in about a week so it's probably out of wack but I'll test and get back to you guys with results

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Do you mean the k-2006c?

 

[leofeld]

Do you mean the k-2006c?

No 2005. Taylor Complete Pool & Spa Test Kit - High Range K-2005C 2 oz Reagents Amazon.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Ok. Then you probably don't have the FAS/DPD chlorine drop test (reagents R-0870/R-0871). This is a critical test. The DPD test does not provide the accuracy necessary to properly manage your pool. You can add the chlorine drop test your kit by purchasing the Taylor k-1515a test kit or by separately purchasing the reagents.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

You would also need reagent R-0003 to complete the CC test. This reagent is included with the k-1515a test kit.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I'm taking a look at the Amazon link. It looks like this kit does have the required reagents. Sorry for the confusion. Just double check to make sure you have the three reagents listed.

 

[leofeld]

I'm taking a look at the Amazon link. It looks like this kit does have the required reagents. Sorry for the confusion. Just double check to make sure you have the three reagents listed.

The kit has the r-0003 regent but not r-0871/0870. I just ordered the k-1515a kit, it should be here tomorrow

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Okay. Sorry again for the confusion. The linked Amazon kit shows instructions for the FAS/DPD test so I assumed the reagents were included.

You can still complete all the other tests and post them.

 

[leofeld]

Okay. Sorry again for the confusion. The linked Amazon kit shows instructions for the FAS/DPD test so I assumed the reagents were included.

You can still complete all the other tests and post them.

Ph - 7.9
Ta - 150
Ch - 450
Cya - 0
Fc/tc - 0
Like I said I've given up on pool last week.

Is there any issue using sodium bisulfate for ph and dry acid for cya in a concrete pool?

 

[Bperry]

Ph - 7.9
Ta - 150
Ch - 450
Cya - 0
Fc/tc - 0
Like I said I've given up on pool last week.

Is there any issue using sodium bisulfate for ph and dry acid for cya in a concrete pool?

Yes, don’t use either. And dry acid is not for CYA. CYA happens to be a dry acid but not the kind you think.

How have you been chlorinating the pool up until now? It’s not possible for CYA to be zero unless you’ve been using liquid chlorine the whole time or you have ammonia in the water.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

The good new is that you don't really need to drain the pool based on the results. CH is a bit high.

Do you top off the pool with softened water? If not, CH will continue to rise with evaporative top-offs.

For the CYA test, you filled up the vial and it remained clear? If so, increase CYA to 30 ppm. Use 100% cyanuric acid, usually marketed as chlorine stabilizer or conditioner.

Is there any issue using sodium bisulfate for ph and dry acid for cya in a concrete pool?

Continued use of sodium bisulfate to reduce pH will result is a build up sulfates in the water that can damage pool surfaces and equipment. Use Muriatic Acid (MA) instead. To increase CYA, use 100% cyanuric acid, usually marketed as chlorine stabilizer or conditioner.

We need to try to figure out what the white stuff is in pool. With a cartridge filter, we can rule out DE. It could be flakes or dead algae. Can you collect any of the substance. If so, pour a bit of vinegar or MA on it. If it fizzes, it's calcium flakes. If it just swooshes away, it's likely sediment or dead algae.

Have you serviced the filter? Look here for help:

Cartridge Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Please complete your signature.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

When you get your kit, begin the SLAM Process.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I forgot to address pH and TA, both of which are elevated. Use MA to reduce pH to 7.2. This in turn will lower TA a bit. As pH rises to 7.8/8.0, reduce pH back to 7.2 This cycle of MA additions will help to lower/control TA while slowing pH rise.

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[leofeld]

Yes, don’t use either. And dry acid is not for CYA. CYA happens to be a dry acid but not the kind you think.

How have you been chlorinating the pool up until now? It’s not possible for CYA to be zero unless you’ve been using liquid chlorine the whole time or you have ammonia in the water.

Pool guy had been using trichlor, thats what I have available. I haven't really been using them since all this had been going on and I used cal hypo shock.

 

[leofeld]

The good new is that you don't really need to drain the pool based on the results. CH is a bit high.

Do you top off the pool with softened water? If not, CH will continue to rise with evaporative top-offs.

For the CYA test, you filled up the vial and it remained clear? If so, increase CYA to 30 ppm. Use 100% cyanuric acid, usually marketed as chlorine stabilizer or conditioner.


Continued use of sodium bisulfate to reduce pH will result is a build up sulfates in the water that can damage pool surfaces and equipment. Use Muriatic Acid (MA) instead. To increase CYA, use 100% cyanuric acid, usually marketed as chlorine stabilizer or conditioner.

We need to try to figure out what the white stuff is in pool. With a cartridge filter, we can rule out DE. It could be flakes or dead algae. Can you collect any of the substance. If so, pour a bit of vinegar or MA on it. If it fizzes, it's calcium flakes. If it just swooshes away, it's likely sediment or dead algae.

Have you serviced the filter? Look here for help:

Cartridge Filter Use and Care - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Please complete your signature.

Create Your Signature - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

When you get your kit, begin the SLAM Process.

I have a water softener installed for the home so I assume water filling the pool is softened?
Yes I was able to see black dot even when vile was filled all the way to the top during cya test.
I have a bag of "chlorine stabilizer" it's a powder, says 100% cya, so that's the right stuff correct?
I'll have to get muriatic acid, I only have sodium bisulfate right now.
Well when I brush the pool it just swooshes away, I think it's probably dead algae.
I just put in a new filter about two months ago.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

I have a bag of "chlorine stabilizer" it's a powder, says 100% cya, so that's the right stuff correct?

Yep!

Do you think you can handle a SLAM? Depending on the condition of the pool, it could take a few days to weeks. You may burn through your chlorine test reagents fairly quickly. You will need to test frequently to maintain FC levels throughout the process.You'll need lots of liquid chlorine. 

 

[leofeld]

Yep!

Do you think you can handle a SLAM? Depending on the condition of the pool, it could take a few days to weeks. You may burn through your chlorine test reagents fairly quickly. You will need to test frequently to maintain FC levels throughout the process.You'll need lots of liquid chlorine. 

I believe so. I don't have any liquid chlorine at the moment though, how much do you think I'd need? How often do I have to test during SLAM?