Help a complete newb before hubby takes over!

[sarmbrust]

Hello All you Pool Chemists!

TOTAL newb to pool ownership. Had a pool for a month or so many years ago, made the pool store mistake, never got it right, took down and threw away.

Just setup new pool hoping for smoother results this go around for kids and hubby who thinks just add shock and use chlorine tablets.

I am very overwhelmed and cant seem to find a good article for dummies

Used HTH 6-way kit ( I know need another brand but its what we could find locally on a Sunday).
Nothing currently added to pool water (well water fed) YET...
Logged into PoolMath app..

1. Alkalinity= 300ppm
2. PH =7.2
3. Chlorine= 0 (no chlorine added at all yet)
4. CYA= 0? Tested twice, tube filled, dot never disappeared
5. Calcium Hardness=230

Where do you even start!?! Help please!

 

[SoCalTFP]

Looks like your test kit is an OTO Chlorine and drop test kit. Not ideal you want FAS DPD for accurate Chlorine testing (TF-100 or Taylor K2006) but it will get you started.

Personally I’d add liquid chlorine/bleach to get to 5ppm based on Pool Math Apps recommendation for the size of your pool.

Then get CYA up to 30-50 using the Pool Math recommendations, dump granular stabilizer into a sock and hang it by the return or in the skimmer basket. Target lower because you can always add more but have to drain to reduce. Test 3-5 days later it needs time to dissolve.

After that test daily and keep FC around 5ppm and test PH daily keeping it between 7.2-8.

TA seems high (probably from the well water) so stay on top of your PH level. It will likely rise pretty quickly but Muriatic Acid doses to keep it in the 7’s will bring it down. You can aerate (waterfall, returns, etc) to speed up the process but not sure how easy that is with your setup.

That’s pretty much it. If you have any supplies (pucks or anything) on hand we might be able to work the Chlorine/CYA numbers to use those up. Let us know how many gallons your pool is, that will help with further recommendations. One of the above test kits will also help because the kit you have won’t be accurate enough for chlorine, a Taylor 1515 (just the FAS DPD) would probably be fine and cheaper.

 

[sarmbrust]

Looks like your test kit is an OTO Chlorine and drop test kit. Not ideal you want FAS DPD for accurate Chlorine testing (TF-100 or Taylor K2006) but it will get you started.

Personally I’d add liquid chlorine/bleach to get to 5ppm based on Pool Math Apps recommendation for the size of your pool.

Then get CYA up to 30-50 using the Pool Math recommendations, dump granular stabilizer into a sock and hang it by the return or in the skimmer basket. Target lower because you can always add more but have to drain to reduce. Test 3-5 days later it needs time to dissolve.

After that test daily and keep FC around 5ppm and test PH daily keeping it between 7.2-8.

TA seems high (probably from the well water) so stay on top of your PH level. It will likely rise pretty quickly but Muriatic Acid doses to keep it in the 7’s will bring it down. You can aerate (waterfall, returns, etc) to speed up the process but not sure how easy that is with your setup.

That’s pretty much it. If you have any supplies (pucks or anything) on hand we might be able to work the Chlorine/CYA numbers to use those up. Let us know how many gallons your pool is, that will help with further recommendations. One of the above test kits will also help because the kit you have won’t be accurate enough for chlorine, a Taylor 1515 (just the FAS DPD) would probably be fine and cheaper.

Per manufacturer gallon size at 90% is 6,092.

I need to look at the liquid chlorine jug I bought and see recommendations from there?

I did try twice on the CYA test but of course it’s a tricky one.

I wish there was a generic “buy this” manual for the “Dummy Pool Owners Club”

I do have a Taylor test kit in my Amazon cart but didn’t want to mess it all up before we even got it with the hot weather this week.

 

[koffey]

Ok, I have a little bigger pool than yourself. This is what I would do. Add ~800 grams of stabilizer to raise your cya to say 40, I use 900 grams to hit 40 for cya, 7000 gallons here. Then use the pool math app to see how much liquid chlorine you need to add asap so you don't have a bloom. Assuming you'll need about 150 ounces. Get a better test kit. Get the taylor 2006 kit in your cart or get the missing reganets you need. Folks on this forum need an accurate result to assist. GL!

 

[JJ_Tex]

For reference, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your 6k gallon pool FC by 17.
1 lb of stabilizer will add 20 CYA to your pool.

I would add 1 lb of CYA to your pool if you are confident you do not have any, then retest. Then get 5 ppm of chlorine in there (about 1/4 gallon) until your real test kit arrives. Also note that if your current test kit can test for CYA, you likely can get by with just adding a FAS-DPD kit to it to be able to accurately test Free Chlorine.

 

[SoCalTFP]

JJ_Tex nailed it

 

[sarmbrust]

For reference, 1 gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will raise your 6k gallon pool FC by 17.
1 lb of stabilizer will add 20 CYA to your pool.

I would add 1 lb of CYA to your pool if you are confident you do not have any, then retest. Then get 5 ppm of chlorine in there (about 1/4 gallon) until your real test kit arrives. Also note that if your current test kit can test for CYA, you likely can get by with just adding a FAS-DPD kit to it to be able to accurately test Free Chlorine.

My current kit had two CYA test kits and of course the black dot never disappeared. Maybe user error haha.

I will be getting a real test kit ordered today. Husband added some chlorine last night so at least there’s a little protection.

I’ll checkout the pool store for CYA since that’s the only option around here aside from Clorox and some other off brands.

 

[JJ_Tex]

I’ll checkout the pool store for CYA since that’s the only option around here aside from Clorox and some other off brands.

Chlorox chlorine stabilizer is fine to use. I can find mine at Walmart for the cheapest. I avoid Chlorox salt and other products like the plague, but they haven't found a way to screw up stabilizer yet.

 

[sarmbrust]

In

Chlorox chlorine stabilizer is fine to use. I can find mine at Walmart for the cheapest. I avoid Chlorox salt and other products like the plague, but they haven't found a way to screw up stabilizer yet.

So on todays list.. I attached the chlorox version they have in the files.. get a bag of that?

Also need to get an actual Taylor kit (K-2006)? To be able to test our chlorine and CYA levels the correct way?

Add stabilizer and once kit arrives test all again? Am I following right?

 

[sarmbrust]

In my PoolMath app I can use the chlorox stabilizer to figure out amounts correct?

Just use the dry stabilizer?

 

[sarmbrust]

In


So on todays list.. I attached the chlorox version they have in the files.. get a bag of that?

Also need to get an actual Taylor kit (K-2006)? To be able to test our chlorine and CYA levels the correct way?

Add stabilizer and once kit arrives test all again? Am I following right?

Well now that I checkout the kit before ordering it mentions nothing about CYA testing.

So maybe just get replacement CYA test fluid for my current kit and an FAS-DPD kit and roll with the rest of my current kit?

Sorry for being “that person”.

 

[mknauss]

A K2006C can test CYA. Be sure to get the C version.

Better value is the TF100 from TFTestkits.net. Best Value, with a SmartStir and nice case is the TFPro.

 

[SoCalTFP]

That Chlorox Stabilizer is good, it is the same product my local Lowe's carries and I personally use. You'll want to use the Dry Stabilizer calculations in Pool Math, keep in mind it measures by weight so you'll want to measure it out with a scale if you have one. I didn't have a scale for this weight so I just dumped it in a measuring bucket and calculated out the conversion from volume to weight (total volume for 4lbs, added 1/4 to get to 1lb). A little messy but I didn't have a kitchen scale handy.

Have you been adding Chlorine/Bleach daily? Also just to confirm you are performing daily Chlorine (albeit with the limited OTO test) and PH tests correct? These should be priority 1, with the CYA addition being a close second.

As mknauss mentioned the K2006C or TF100 (much better value) is what you need for your test kit. That said it looks like the kit you already have is this one HTH® Pool Care 6-Way Test Kit which based on the instructions for each test is probably pretty similar or identificle for CYA/TA/PH/Calcium. I see no reason you couldn't purchase a Taylor K1515A for the missing FAS-DPD test and use up the HTH 6-way kit (assuming it is the one linked) to avoid double purchasing the drop based kit for the other tests. It goes against the general principles of TFP for using a K2006C or TF100, but overall seems like it's measuring the same things with similar reagents just only has OTO instead of the FAS-DPD.

mknauss or one of the more experienced members could probably weigh in here though? I made the same mistake and bought a Taylor K2005 test kit initially and added the K1515A once I realized I needed FAS-DPD so I'd hate to see sarmbrust toss a capable test kit that is already on hand in the trash if it's workable.

 

[sarmbrust]

A K2006C can test CYA. Be sure to get the C version.

Better value is the TF100 from TFTestkits.net. Best Value, with a SmartStir and nice case is the TFPro.

Does the TF100 test OTO chlorine or FAS-DPD? Because the kit I currently have is OTO and previous helpers mentioned I need FAS-DPD.

 

[sarmbrust]

Ok, I have a little bigger pool than yourself. This is what I would do. Add ~800 grams of stabilizer to raise your cya to say 40, I use 900 grams to hit 40 for cya, 7000 gallons here. Then use the pool math app to see how much liquid chlorine you need to add asap so you don't have a bloom. Assuming you'll need about 150 ounces. Get a better test kit. Get the taylor 2006 kit in your cart or get the missing reganets you need. Folks on this forum need an accurate result to assist. GL!

Well mine might be bigger gallons?! Seems like there’s no straight answer on gallon volume anywhere.

 

[sarmbrust]

That Chlorox Stabilizer is good, it is the same product my local Lowe's carries and I personally use. You'll want to use the Dry Stabilizer calculations in Pool Math, keep in mind it measures by weight so you'll want to measure it out with a scale if you have one. I didn't have a scale for this weight so I just dumped it in a measuring bucket and calculated out the conversion from volume to weight (total volume for 4lbs, added 1/4 to get to 1lb). A little messy but I didn't have a kitchen scale handy.

Have you been adding Chlorine/Bleach daily? Also just to confirm you are performing daily Chlorine (albeit with the limited OTO test) and PH tests correct? These should be priority 1, with the CYA addition being a close second.

As mknauss mentioned the K2006C or TF100 (much better value) is what you need for your test kit. That said it looks like the kit you already have is this one HTH® Pool Care 6-Way Test Kit which based on the instructions for each test is probably pretty similar or identificle for CYA/TA/PH/Calcium. I see no reason you couldn't purchase a Taylor K1515A for the missing FAS-DPD test and use up the HTH 6-way kit (assuming it is the one linked) to avoid double purchasing the drop based kit for the other tests. It goes against the general principles of TFP for using a K2006C or TF100, but overall seems like it's measuring the same things with similar reagents just only has OTO instead of the FAS-DPD.

mknauss or one of the more experienced members could probably weigh in here though? I made the same mistake and bought a Taylor K2005 test kit initially and added the K1515A once I realized I needed FAS-DPD so I'd hate to see sarmbrust toss a capable test kit that is already on hand in the trash if it's workable.

This is what I was thinking originally and then felt I needed to get a whole new kit!

I think I’m going to do this..
order the K1515A (since I can have via Amazon tomorrow)

Get some of the Clorox stabilizer and continue testing via the HTH 6-way kit I already have (chlorine and ph tests). I will need to get more of the cya fluid as I used both available tests yesterday clearly not knowing what I was doing.

 

[Dirk]

CYA is not a natural element in city water or well water or rain water. Your test result was correct. You got a zero CYA test result because you have zero CYA. And you won't get any CYA test result until you actually add some.

 

[sarmbrust]

CYA is not a natural element in city or well water or rain water. Your test result was correct. You got a zero CYA test result because you have zero CYA. And you won't get any CYA test result until you actually add some.

Correct.

Picking up the mentioned above stabilizer today. Have to order more CYA reagent to be able to even test again. And need to get a FAS-DPD based chlorine test.

 

[sarmbrust]

This is what I was thinking originally and then felt I needed to get a whole new kit!

I think I’m going to do this..
order the K1515A (since I can have via Amazon tomorrow)

Get some of the Clorox stabilizer and continue testing via the HTH 6-way kit I already have (chlorine and ph tests). I will need to get more of the cya fluid as I used both available tests yesterday clearly not knowing what I was doing.

And we added chlorine last night for the first time (husband did while I was getting kids ready for bed).

Just tested and still at 0 on my OTO test .
PH seems a tad higher than yesterday.

I have an extra kitchen scale so that won’t be a problem!

 

[mknauss]

Does the TF100 test OTO chlorine or FAS-DPD?

FAS DPD. It is kit designed for the residential pool owner. Has more of the reagents you really need, and less of those you will not test often.