Testing for Dummies-Need Help

[shellydsizemore]

Hi. This is our 4th summer with a saltwater pool. We are dealing with black algae (very minor case-barely visible) and struggling to maintain FC. We had been using a pool store for testing, but their results were, obviously, inconsistent. So I purchased the Taylor K-2006 and tried my best to test. It overwhelmed me. I'm not entirely sure I tested it correctly, especially the chlorine levels. I completely botched the chlorine test the first time, but think I did better the 2nd. We are currently brushing regularly and think we finally have the algae issue to a point where I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. But if I can't get our CYA & FC levels up, it will be futile.

Since late April/early May, we have added what feels like ton of cyanuric acid. Approximately 4 gallons of the liquid CYA, along with a lot of other things to get everything else back where it should be. Over the weekend, we added chlorine tabs to a floater we had on hand, shocked with 2lbs of cal-hypo shock on Saturday, another 1.5lbs Sunday and knocked our SWG to superchlorinate. As I just got the Taylor test kit today, I was hesitant to ads any more CYA until I could properly test. Salt is a little low according to pool store test (2700), SWG is reading 3200. I didn't realize there was a separate kit to buy to test that. I know we can't get our FC to stay where it needs to be until we get the CYA up, but I'm not sure how much more to add without overdoing it. I shocked it with another 1.5lbs tonight around 10pm.

Located in Southeast Texas, inground saltwater pool at 19.5k gallons and SWG replaced just last year. Please help!

CYA- under 30
FC- .4
CC- .2
pH- 7.6
TA- 100
CH- 300

Thank you all! I've learned a ton just in the last week by reading all of the articles and posts on here.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hello Shelly.... let's see if we can make things easier for you. .

If you take your fingernail and scrape a bit of this "black algae" and rub it on a piece of white paper, what does it look like? Green schmear??

I need to know which type of pool do you have- plaster/vinyl lined/fiberglass? The recommended levels for each vary slightly.
Please tell us about your pool equipment in use, also. Size of pool? Type filter? Size of Salt Cell?

When you say say you "shocked it with 1.5 pounds..." of what??

I'm going to post some links I need you to read, ok?
Pool Care Basics
SLAM Process




Maddie

 

[shellydsizemore]

Thank you! I'll get some more detail in the morning.

Plaster, 19,500 gallons, sand filter

HTH Pool Care Shock Advanced for the 2lbs, then 2 rounds of HTH Chlorine Granules Ultra (at shock level-1.5lbs per directions).

Also need to clarify that my husband did the CYA granules initially (approx 3lbs), then did 2 gallons of liquid. He's been the one doing most of this until this past weekend so that is my reason for estimates. For the granules, he did the "mix with warm water in a bucket" method which I now realize isn't ideal. Will be doing the sock method next.

I'll try to scrape some of the algae in the morning, but we've been brushing for almost a week now and it's almost gone.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning and welcome to TFP! Perhaps the note below will help you with your next CYA test. That test it a bit unique to the others and can seem challenging, but as you read below, you can do it over & over to get comfortable and get a good average number. We'll be watching for any questions and results.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

 

[shellydsizemore]

Good morning and welcome to TFP! Perhaps the note below will help you with your next CYA test. That test it a bit unique to the others and can seem challenging, but as you read below, you can do it over & over to get comfortable and get a good average number. We'll be watching for any questions and results.

CYA Testing:
Proper lighting is critical for the CYA test, so you want to test for CYA outside on a bright sunny day. Use the mixing bottle to gently mix the required amounts of pool water and R-0013 reagent, let sit for 30 seconds, then gently mix again. Recommend standing outside with your back to the sun and the view tube in the shade of your body at waist level. Then, begin squirting the mixed solution into the skinny tube. Watch the black dot until it completely disappears. Once it disappears, record the CYA reading. To help the eyes and prevent staring at the dot, some people find it better to pour & view in stages. Pour some solution into the viewing tube, look away, then look back again for the dot. Repeat as necessary until you feel the dot is gone. After the first CYA test, you can pour the mixed solution from the skinny view tube back to the mixing bottle, gently shake, and do the same test a second, third, or fourth time to instill consistency in your technique, become more comfortable with the testing, and validate your own CYA reading. Finally, if you still doubt your own reading, have a friend do the test with you and compare results.

Thank you. That is almost exactly how I tested the 2nd time, lol. I also found some videos on YouTube that helped tremendously.

I did discover, after a LOT of reading here last night, that my husband probably did not use the best of methods for the CYA he has added this year. Which is probably why our levels are still low. Probably a tactic of the pool stores to get you back in to buy more!

 

[Texas Splash]

You may be using the PoolMath APP (Effects of Adding) to help you with your dosage amounts, but just for comparison's sake, I come up with the following:
- One gallons of 10% liquid chlorine should increase your FC by about 5 ppm.
- 81 ounces (5 lbs) of granular stabilizer OR 209 ounces (1 Gal, 2 quarts, and 2 cups) of liquid conditioner should increase the CYA by 30 ppm.

You mentioned adding 4 gallons of the liquid which that alone should be a CYA of 70 or slightly more. Here around San Antonio, I had to pump out quite a bit of water because of the rains. If you did as well that could explain some CYA reduction. But I would be cautious from here to make sure the CYA isn't going to get too high. The liquid "should" show a new CYA within just a few hours of adding it, so it's odd you are showing such a low CYA.

Also make sure that while you are trying to adjust things and confirm that CYA that you don't let the FC fall. Add liquid chlorine right away if it's low to prevent algae. There is no harm in having an FC of anywhere between 5-9 ppm, so if you need to add a gallon you can do it.

We also need to get your signature updated. If you aren't sure how to di it, I can help. Tell me what type of filter and SWG you are using and I'll add all of that.

 

[shellydsizemore]

You may be using the PoolMath APP (Effects of Adding) to help you with your dosage amounts, but just for comparison's sake, I come up with the following:
- One gallons of 10% liquid chlorine should increase your FC by about 5 ppm.
- 81 ounces (5 lbs) of granular stabilizer OR 209 ounces (1 Gal, 2 quarts, and 2 cups) of liquid conditioner should increase the CYA by 30 ppm.

You mentioned adding 4 gallons of the liquid which that alone should be a CYA of 70 or slightly more. Here around San Antonio, I had to pump out quite a bit of water because of the rains. If you did as well that could explain some CYA reduction. But I would be cautious from here to make sure the CYA isn't going to get too high. The liquid "should" show a new CYA within just a few hours of adding it, so it's odd you are showing such a low CYA.

Also make sure that while you are trying to adjust things and confirm that CYA that you don't let the FC fall. Add liquid chlorine right away if it's low to prevent algae. There is no harm in having an FC of anywhere between 5-9 ppm, so if you need to add a gallon you can do it.

We also need to get your signature updated. If you aren't sure how to di it, I can help. Tell me what type of filter and SWG you are using and I'll add all of that.

Updated. I've been trying to figure out how to do that, but finally got it!

Tested again this morning after adding the 56% cal-hypo granulated chlorine last night.

FC .2
CC .2
pH 7.4
TA 110
CH 350
CYA 30 (or less as I can still see the black dot with tube filled to the brim)

My chlorine test never turns as pink as I've seen in the videos. I'm hesitant to waste the powder as I only achieved a cloudy very light pink and the powder will not dissolve completely. I've tested it 3 times using manual swirling, the smart stir, and flat out shaking. I don't achieve the faint pink color until I've dumped at least 10 dipperfuls in. It takes about 15 for it to be clearly, but still very light, pink. When adding the other drops to turn it back to clear, it does turn clear, but the water is still very cloudy from the powder. Is it possible the powder in my kit is bad?

 

[Texas Splash]

My chlorine test never turns as pink as I've seen in the videos.

Right now your focus needs to be the low free chlorine level. TX heat is ramping up and that warm water will get cloudy & green fast. Be sure to get some liquid chlorine and add is ASAP. I would stop using the Cal-Hypo as your CH level is high enough right now and will probably grow with summer water top-offs. Liquid chlorine is the way to go. Quick & easy to add. As low as your FC has been lately, I would add two gallons which is about 10 ppm worthy, then check again in a few hours. I'm sure it will drop quickly.

 

[Texas Splash]

The FC sample never changes pink because your FC is next to zero - never good. After you add the 2 gallons, let it mix for a few and try another test. It should be as follows:

10 ML water sample with ONE generous scoop of R-0870 powder. Start adding R-0871 drops while stirring until the sample goes clear. Divide that number in half. Example: 12 drops from pink to clear equals an FC of 6.

 

[Texas Splash]

Because your FC level has been low for a while, I'm concerned about the possibility of organics building and trying to start an algae situation. So if the water starts to loose its sparkle, gets hazy, cloudy, or even shows green clouds when you brush, let us know right away. Hopefully once you add the liquid chlorine and keep it elevated for a while you can avoid this problem.

 

[shellydsizemore]

Because your FC level has been low for a while, I'm concerned about the possibility of organics building and trying to start an algae situation. So if the water starts to loose its sparkle, gets hazy, cloudy, or even shows green clouds when you brush, let us know right away. Hopefully once you add the liquid chlorine and keep it elevated for a while you can avoid this problem.

Idk why, but liquid chlorine makes me nervous. Especially when using household bleach, lol. Which was all I could find in a pinch. Small town life, I suppose. Mission Bleach commencing in 5. Will report back in the morning! Unless I should test sooner? Thank you, all! I'm grateful for this excellent group of real life experts!

 

[shellydsizemore]

Right now your focus needs to be the low free chlorine level. TX heat is ramping up and that warm water will get cloudy & green fast. Be sure to get some liquid chlorine and add is ASAP. I would stop using the Cal-Hypo as your CH level is high enough right now and will probably grow with summer water top-offs. Liquid chlorine is the way to go. Quick & easy to add. As low as your FC has been lately, I would add two gallons which is about 10 ppm worthy, then check again in a few hours. I'm sure it will drop quickly.

I don't buy the cal-hypo intentionally, it just seems to be what is widely available here unless I go to the dreaded pool store. But I know it's important to clarify that piece of info so I just made sure to include it!

 

[mknauss]

dk why, but liquid chlorine makes me nervous.

Cal Hypo should make you nervous. It is a very dangerous product to store and use.

Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[shellydsizemore]

Cal Hypo should make you nervous. It is a very dangerous product to store and use.

Chemical Storage and Safety - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Oh, wow! I suppose there is a risk of some sort with any type of chemical. I don't know much about the details of any of these, really, but I'm leaning. All I really know is that it supposedly helps prevent chlorine lock, but who knows what is true with all the claims made? Again, I don't go looking for it, I get whatever is available. My options are limited unless I order online and I didn't get involved in our pool care until last week. By that point, I couldn't afford to order anything online and ended up reliant upon my small town Walmart or Leslie's. I work from home, but I work 60+ hours a week so it's hard to find time to drive into the next bigger town (Beaumont) for more options. We live in a small rural town outside of the bigger city and Beaumont isn't that big either, really. I'll be better prepared next year!

 

[Texas Splash]

When in doubt, go back to the Pool Care Basics. That page has articles like the one below and many, many more. 99.9% of your questions can be answered there. Anything else we can help clarify.

The wo biggest (and easiest) things to remember:
1 - To prevent scale, keep you pH in the 7.2-7.8 range. If it gets too high, use muriatic acid. Test every 2-3 days.
2 - To prevent algae, keep the FC in the ideal range for your CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Test daily in our warmer/hot months. Use liquid chlorine.

CYA and CH should not change much, so test monthly or more often if you change a lot of water. TA can be done weekly and has very flexible ranges.

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[shellydsizemore]

Added 2 81oz jugs of 7% bleach last night and tested about 2.5 hours later. FC was at 1. That's the first whole # I've seen this year.

Added another 81oz jug this morning and tested 10-15 minutes later. FC is at 1.5. CC is questionable. It's hard to tell. If it is turning pink, it is so faint I can't tell if my eyes are playing tricks on me. Adding 1 drop also seems questionable. Worst case scenario, CC is .5

FC-1.5
CC-.5 (maybe 0)

I'll be adding more bleach/liquid chlorine tonight. I feel like I should have tested sooner last night, but still don't quite know how soon to test after adding. Will be adding at night only until I can get levels up to where they should be according to my CYA of 30 (or just under 30...last pool store test showed 28, my Taylor test won't go under 30 and black dot is still visible at 30, but just barely).

Question is how much bleach/liquid chlorine should I stock up on when I go to town today? Am I supposed to add, test, repeat until I hit my target level of 3 in one session? So add, wait 10-15 minutes, test and add again? Once I hit my target level, I intend to do the overnight fc loss test, but I don't feel my level is stable enough for that yet.

 

[Texas Splash]

Question is how much bleach/liquid chlorine should I stock up on when I go to town today?

You should get a few gallons. Your pool needs chlorine everyday. You can expect to add at least 1/2 gallon per day of 10% strength. If you can only get the 7% bleach, it will take more.

Am I supposed to add, test, repeat until I hit my target level of 3 in one session?

Once you get the FC to the proper value as noted on the FC/CYA Levels, and you get in a routine with the pool, then you should only have to add chlorine once a day. But right now your water needs help and the FC is falling too low. To avoid algae, it's important to add enough chlorine (or regular bleach) to get the FC up to at least 5 ppm today. If your schedule doesn't permit adding during the day, you'll have to take care of it when you get home.

Once I hit my target level, I intend to do the overnight fc loss test, but I don't feel my level is stable enough for that yet.

We can help you wt that later.

 

[cznkane]

Can't echo the other comments enough here @shellydsizemore. Fellow Texan, it's getting hot, you absolutely must get that FC up ASAP. For me I'd ignore all other tests for the moment and focus only on dumping gallons of 7% in and testing until you hit the right number. If you overshoot that is OK, I'd go at LEAST one gallon at a time right now until you get where you need to be. Considering your CYA is on the lower end that number will be lower (check that chart) but you'll need to test / maintain very regularly (a gallon a day of 7%, test 3+ times a week).

I think people get overwhelmed with the K-2006 chemistry set looking at all the possible tests. I typically test FC and PH regularly (in the summer probably once a week if not twice, depends on if I'm making adjustments). The rest are useful and interesting but not super critical. All the 'demand' tests are just there to help you figure out how much to add. I ignore those due to the fact that I've got the Pool Math app telling me as well as knowing my pool. What I mean by that is, I interact with my pool water enough to know pretty well what a gallon of Liquid Chlorine or a gallon of Muriatic will do. When I get test numbers I know in my head right away what I need to add. I only really add Chlorine by the whole gallon and Muriatic by the half gallon...no need to get out a measuring cup and get it exact to the ounce.

 

[shellydsizemore]

Once you get the FC to the proper value as noted on the FC/CYA Levels, and you get in a routine with the pool, then you should only have to add chlorine once a day. But right now your water needs help and the FC is falling too low. To avoid algae, it's important to add enough chlorine (or regular bleach) to get the FC up to at least 5 ppm today. If your schedule doesn't permit adding during the day, you'll have to take care of it when you get home.

Once I stock up (today) I absolutely can add it thru the day, just thought it was better to add in the evening so it would have a longer chance to work without the sun breaking it down. Thank you for the clarification! Having the SWG, I'm not used to having to manually chlorinate it.

I'm worried our SWG isn't even working at this point, but I guess I'll get to that once I get the other issues settled, lol.

 

[shellydsizemore]

Can't echo the other comments enough here @shellydsizemore. Fellow Texan, it's getting hot, you absolutely must get that FC up ASAP. For me I'd ignore all other tests for the moment and focus only on dumping gallons of 7% in and testing until you hit the right number. If you overshoot that is OK, I'd go at LEAST one gallon at a time right now until you get where you need to be. Considering your CYA is on the lower end that number will be lower (check that chart) but you'll need to test / maintain very regularly (a gallon a day of 7%, test 3+ times a week).

I think people get overwhelmed with the K-2006 chemistry set looking at all the possible tests. I typically test FC and PH regularly (in the summer probably once a week if not twice, depends on if I'm making adjustments). The rest are useful and interesting but not super critical. All the 'demand' tests are just there to help you figure out how much to add. I ignore those due to the fact that I've got the Pool Math app telling me as well as knowing my pool. What I mean by that is, I interact with my pool water enough to know pretty well what a gallon of Liquid Chlorine or a gallon of Muriatic will do. When I get test numbers I know in my head right away what I need to add. I only really add Chlorine by the whole gallon and Muriatic by the half gallon...no need to get out a measuring cup and get it exact to the ounce.

Helpful info, thank you! Since my initial test, I've just been testing the FC. It was super exciting to see it actually turn pink last night, lol.