Even if your gas tests are within specs, you still need to find out why flame is getting out of the box. Something that is blocking the burner could also be causing an issue with the pilot burner. It can be/is a dangerous situation.
Raypak 336A - no pilot sensed
- Thread starter Jmen
- Start date
It says that it comes with 2 connectors.
- Digital Manometer x1
- Pressure Hose x4
- Pagoda Connector x2
- Protective Case x1
- Quick Manual x1
It might be a good idea to clean the burner tray and exchanger while you wait. I use a cheap leaf blower, compressed air, shop vac for exchanger. You can pull the whole tray out and brush lightly clean. Make sure the fire walls are intact.
*wear some clothes you don’t mind getting covered in soot.
*wear some clothes you don’t mind getting covered in soot.
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Picked up a 1/4” NPT to 1/4” barb fitting and some 1/4” tubing. Ordered a 0-15” w.c. Gauge:
O-15” Kodak pressure gauge
Gauge should be here by In a couple of days.
Thanks again for sharing thoughts. Closest Raypak service is an hour away and trusted plumber said he would just do same testing I’m doing now.
650 CFH blower was used to try and clear interior of unit before spring startup - rain cap was removed and loose debris were removed by hand. I’ve not removed the burner tray but am starting to research the procedure based on the soot outside of the combustion enclosure.
O-15” Kodak pressure gauge
Gauge should be here by In a couple of days.
Thanks again for sharing thoughts. Closest Raypak service is an hour away and trusted plumber said he would just do same testing I’m doing now.
650 CFH blower was used to try and clear interior of unit before spring startup - rain cap was removed and loose debris were removed by hand. I’ve not removed the burner tray but am starting to research the procedure based on the soot outside of the combustion enclosure.
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JamesR
Gold Supporter
- May 18, 2015
- 341
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
FYI…..I installed a new heater last year and made my own manometer for like $5. A ruler, tubing, a couple brass fittings from H.D. ,water and food coloring. Simple water column. No need for calibration and the water column doesn’t lie. 
. It’s accurate. It’s showing 12” of pressure here. The pic says it all ….
. It’s accurate. It’s showing 12” of pressure here. The pic says it all ….Attachments
swamprat69
Well-known member
Your reading in the photo is actually 6" WC. The point in the utube at atmospheric pressure where the water column is equal on both sides should be labeled zero. Pressure is measured as the variation from the zero point when pressure is applied.FYI…..I installed a new heater last year and made my own manometer for like $5. A ruler, tubing, a couple brass fittings from H.D. ,water and food coloring. Simple water column. No need for calibration and the water column doesn’t lie.
JamesR
Gold Supporter
- May 18, 2015
- 341
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
It is one side closed end manometer. The pressure is the difference between side 1 and side 2. 14" H2O - 2" H20.
My propane regulator feeding the heater is rate at 9-15". It said it was factory set to 11". My initial test showed a delta of 11" on the u-tube. I adjusted slightly to get the 12" delta.
I don't think my heater would function at 6" water column of propane.
Thoughts?
swamprat69
Well-known member
Kk... could not see second end in photo and made erroneous assumption... sorry
JamesR
Gold Supporter
- May 18, 2015
- 341
- Pool Size
- 28000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Unless you are an HVAC guy, you probably do not need to buy an electronic/digital manometer. A homeowner will probably only use it once or twice if that.
I made this one fairly quickly for the new heater install and then only used it one other time for a check on my Propane furnace in the house. Then I emptied the water tube because the red food coloring would permanently stain the tube. Now it just sits in the basement.
I made this one fairly quickly for the new heater install and then only used it one other time for a check on my Propane furnace in the house. Then I emptied the water tube because the red food coloring would permanently stain the tube. Now it just sits in the basement.
Gauge arrived today. Pressure on inlet side of valve appear fine.
The gas valve PV solenoid does not seem to be opening during CFH ignition sequence though. Zero pressure measured at pilot tube port.
VAC measured between PV/MV and PV wires at gas valve during ignition sequence fluctuates wildly 24, -4.9, 26.9, 27.5, 23.5, -4.6, 22.0, 16.8, 20.0, 25.7, 27.6, -9.1, -22.5, 20.7, 17.6, 24.3, 26.8, 27.5 . . . Meter was set to 200VAC with positive lead on the PV/MV terminal and negative on the PV terminal. I have a video but am currently clueless as to how to share.
I’m not well versed in electricity but imagine next step is to verify solid 24VAC on outgoing side of transformer? Display panel appears fine though with no flickering. Perhaps meter setting or probe connections were not correct to test signal to valve?
An online Gas valve test video for a furnace indicated that the solenoid coil could be tested by measuring ohms between the solenoid terminals - whereas infinite resistance indicates a broken solenoid coil. No continuity was measured between solenoid terminals P/MV and PV on the gas valve. Hmmm.
Best regards,
Joe M in WV
The gas valve PV solenoid does not seem to be opening during CFH ignition sequence though. Zero pressure measured at pilot tube port.
VAC measured between PV/MV and PV wires at gas valve during ignition sequence fluctuates wildly 24, -4.9, 26.9, 27.5, 23.5, -4.6, 22.0, 16.8, 20.0, 25.7, 27.6, -9.1, -22.5, 20.7, 17.6, 24.3, 26.8, 27.5 . . . Meter was set to 200VAC with positive lead on the PV/MV terminal and negative on the PV terminal. I have a video but am currently clueless as to how to share.
I’m not well versed in electricity but imagine next step is to verify solid 24VAC on outgoing side of transformer? Display panel appears fine though with no flickering. Perhaps meter setting or probe connections were not correct to test signal to valve?
An online Gas valve test video for a furnace indicated that the solenoid coil could be tested by measuring ohms between the solenoid terminals - whereas infinite resistance indicates a broken solenoid coil. No continuity was measured between solenoid terminals P/MV and PV on the gas valve. Hmmm.
Best regards,
Joe M in WV
Attachments
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Good question - only one gauge was on hand when testing downstream pressure and the gauge was on the pilot tube port - I don’t recall the gauge needle moving at all. Might try to check again later this evening. Rain all day tomorrow here so might not have a good reply until Sunday.
This is on the inlet.
If the valve is opening at all, the gauge pressure will drop some.
If the needle does not drop at all, the valve is not opening.
Do you have a 1/8" brass barbed adaptor?
Most gauges come with the brass barbed adaptor that screws into the test port.
If the valve is opening at all, the gauge pressure will drop some.
If the needle does not drop at all, the valve is not opening.
Do you have a 1/8" brass barbed adaptor?
Most gauges come with the brass barbed adaptor that screws into the test port.
Gauge was purchased without accoutrements. Got an adapter at the hardware store a few days ago - but 1/4” NPT x 1/4” barb. Also was not careful enough to realize 1/4” tube does not fit over 1/4” NPT. Turns out I am embarrassingly dumb enough to not return again to the store to get the correct part before testing.
Not much progress in absolutely verifying whether the pilot fuel supply issue is a gas valve failing to respond to signal to open, or inadequate signal from board to operate the pilot solenoid.
Voltage measured between PV/MV and PV wire terminals at gas valve during ignition sequence fluctuates wildly. Voltage measured at heater power switch is rock steady 28.5 VAC.
I’m not well versed in electrical circuits. Why are there three wires going from control board to thr gas valve? Obviously the PV and MV solenoids need a coil supply. Why does the circuit complete with a common PV/MV path back to the control board instead of going to the ground on the gas valve? Reason for asking is to verify I’m testing properly for pilot valve signal to open prior to purchasing a new control board.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Joe M in WV
Voltage measured between PV/MV and PV wire terminals at gas valve during ignition sequence fluctuates wildly. Voltage measured at heater power switch is rock steady 28.5 VAC.
I’m not well versed in electrical circuits. Why are there three wires going from control board to thr gas valve? Obviously the PV and MV solenoids need a coil supply. Why does the circuit complete with a common PV/MV path back to the control board instead of going to the ground on the gas valve? Reason for asking is to verify I’m testing properly for pilot valve signal to open prior to purchasing a new control board.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Joe M in WV
The voltage will fluctuate as it’s charging the solenoid during the spark sequence. You should see 0-24-0-24 24vac being nominal. There is common back to the board so the board can monitor vac. You should see some indication of wc drop on inlet side when the pv opens, or see it increase if it’s plugged into the pv manifold side. Although rare it sounds like your gas valve isn’t opening.
Thank you very much for clarification! I will pick up proper fittings to test the gas pressure during ignition sequence to verify both pressure drop at gas inlet test port and gas outlet test port during ignition sequence. It is so tempting to run a test wire from the power switch to the PV terminal on the gas valve and get pressure readings - but factory service video indicates not to do that.
Raypak gas fired pool heater training video
Raypak gas fired pool heater training video