- Aug 2, 2016
- 42
- Pool Size
- 15305
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
After swallowing pride and realizing I can't manage a chlorine pool, I'm switching.. tomorrow. I'm going with the Jandy True Clear which should be more than enough for my pool. https://www.jandy.com/en/products/water-sanitizers/truclear
The installer said my pump is hard wired at 240V so he can't connect this to that so it runs with it. I have to have a separate timer for the salt cell to coincide with the pump. That sounds crappy and means I can't use the I aqualink app I think.
I've tried to do as much homework on here as I could so I just want help confirming I'm on the right path as well as what I need on day 1 to get going and advice on day-to-day forward. Here goes:
Suggested levels: (I assume these are still good for AZ and I still have an ozonator.. not sure if that alters) (Current readings taken at 730am this morning)
Salt: Manufacturer says 3000 so I'll start with 3200 (current: 3300. no idea why when I'm not on swg. Fill water is about 700)
CYA: 70-80 (I've lived on pucks so never added this manually but I believe I use the sock method) (current reading not measureable it's so high)
FC: 4-6 (Current - 3)
TA: 60-80 (Fill water 60)(Current 140)
PH: 7.2-7.5 (Fill water 7.4) (Current 7.6)
CH: 350-450 (My fill water is tested at 180 - which also poses the question how I am sky high right now.) (Current 900)
CSI: -.3 - 0
No idea how many bags of salt to buy so if there is easy math that can tell me, maybe I put my pre-fill numbers into school math and see what it says?
Do I just buy any brand stabilizer and I assume pool math will tell me how much to add?
What else should I buy besides a salt level test kit to get me going?
Do I need to run the pump first for awhile to mix salt or get the swg on-line right away?
I'm concerned on how my hardness and salt level has sky-rocketed in a chlorine pool connected to soft water auto-refill. Is there anything that explains that I can understand? Is it the high hardness level driving calcium in turn driving the salt level? Do you foresee issues later knowing anything in my set-up?
DRAINING: I'm going to buy a submersible pump today so I could do it quickly. Is there such a thing as doing it safely during the day (over 100 degrees direct sunlight )? I was planning to wait until the sun disappears behind my neighbor's house. I'm putting full drain about 3.5-4 hours then I'll fill and set my alarm. Will the plaster be ok with nightime temps over 90 and no direct sunlight?
I appreciate all of the help!! From everything I've read and heard, I will be much happier with SWG and with travel, I don't have to worry about it as much.
The installer said my pump is hard wired at 240V so he can't connect this to that so it runs with it. I have to have a separate timer for the salt cell to coincide with the pump. That sounds crappy and means I can't use the I aqualink app I think.
I've tried to do as much homework on here as I could so I just want help confirming I'm on the right path as well as what I need on day 1 to get going and advice on day-to-day forward. Here goes:
Suggested levels: (I assume these are still good for AZ and I still have an ozonator.. not sure if that alters) (Current readings taken at 730am this morning)
Salt: Manufacturer says 3000 so I'll start with 3200 (current: 3300. no idea why when I'm not on swg. Fill water is about 700)
CYA: 70-80 (I've lived on pucks so never added this manually but I believe I use the sock method) (current reading not measureable it's so high)
FC: 4-6 (Current - 3)
TA: 60-80 (Fill water 60)(Current 140)
PH: 7.2-7.5 (Fill water 7.4) (Current 7.6)
CH: 350-450 (My fill water is tested at 180 - which also poses the question how I am sky high right now.) (Current 900)
CSI: -.3 - 0
No idea how many bags of salt to buy so if there is easy math that can tell me, maybe I put my pre-fill numbers into school math and see what it says?
Do I just buy any brand stabilizer and I assume pool math will tell me how much to add?
What else should I buy besides a salt level test kit to get me going?
Do I need to run the pump first for awhile to mix salt or get the swg on-line right away?
I'm concerned on how my hardness and salt level has sky-rocketed in a chlorine pool connected to soft water auto-refill. Is there anything that explains that I can understand? Is it the high hardness level driving calcium in turn driving the salt level? Do you foresee issues later knowing anything in my set-up?
DRAINING: I'm going to buy a submersible pump today so I could do it quickly. Is there such a thing as doing it safely during the day (over 100 degrees direct sunlight )? I was planning to wait until the sun disappears behind my neighbor's house. I'm putting full drain about 3.5-4 hours then I'll fill and set my alarm. Will the plaster be ok with nightime temps over 90 and no direct sunlight?
I appreciate all of the help!! From everything I've read and heard, I will be much happier with SWG and with travel, I don't have to worry about it as much.