Wye or 3-way?

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#1
Redesigning my plumbing for a heat pump. Is it better to put a Wye and 2 ball valves, or one 3-way valve? (to heat pump or to pool). Two Jandy 2-way cost more than one Jandy 3-way, but it seems a 3-way would be more restrictive. Much cheaper if I use red handled valves since I probably will hardly ever have to take them off heat pump. Most of my joints seem to be two 45's rather than one 90, will stick with that for corners.
 

duraleigh

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Apr 1, 2007
31,271
Sebring, Florida
#2
Not enough info to have an opinion on your plumbing system but I will relay I saved some money and put in the Red Ball Valves.......about three years later they were all frozen up or busted and I put in Jandy's......which I should have done to begin with.
 

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#5
OK, since a "T" (or valve) isn't much less restrictive than two 45's, I think I'll go with two 3 way Jandy's. I've seen many diagrams with a ball valve at the inlet and outlet of the heater, and one on the pipe between. I think one 3 way at each junction makes the most sense (for me). The existing pipe to the pool is going to be within 10" of the heat pump outlet, so a 90 and a 3 way Jandy connecting to the pool pipe makes sense. In the picture below the HP is going at the left. The tab feeder and that whole line will be removed and HP outlet connected to "pool return" (3 way Jandy), then right above that another 3 way Jandy from filter to HP inlet. HP outlets facing forward, with HP occupying a bit of space from the removal of tab feeder. Hope that all makes sense.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kuqf107s0b2rsaq/PoolPumpFilter.jpg?dl=0
 

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#6
Decided to do a quick mock-up with 3/4" pipe (2" in reality). Black paint can is heat pump. Does this look OK? Basically two Jandy 3-way one above the other. The lower T "Stenner" will really be a cross, one side to Stenner, one side to 4th return on 1.5" line that was pressure cleaner.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/enuo4qsog4bam6e/HeatPumpPlumb.jpg?dl=0

Can the inlet on the Jandy valve be on the end (not the center)?
 

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#8
Looks fine to me, this way you can disconnect HP and still have flow to pool. Not sure what you mean by on the end, there is already one there
Most of the pictures I've seen have the center of the T labeled input. Now that I've looked at the internal diagrams of the valve, I see any of the 3 ports can be the input. I went ahead and ordered 2 Jandy's. Thanks for the help.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#9
Is it best to order a Heat Pump that won't be used until April now, or wait so warranty goes longer? Don't want the price to go up though if I can get a good "winter" price. Going with a Gulfstream HE110RA. Here are some shots of re-plumbing I did today. Red valve and line is to one jet (use to be pressure cleaner), it's this valve that visually looks very well made. Will likely replace those Blue valves with Jandy's if I ever need to replace my pump.



Stenner connection below Jandy's:


Stenner:
 

tcat

Well-known member
May 30, 2012
767
Austin, TX
#10
Are Jandy valves supposed to leak at all? I have removed the blue gloves (picture above) and dried them out. Over 24 hours I get a small build up of water on both. And that's on low pump speed, so less than 5 psi. That small amount of leak isn't going to matter, just wondering if I should take apart and grease up with magic lube.

Expecting my heat pump end of this week. Got a good black Friday deal.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 

JasonLion

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May 7, 2007
37,879
Silver Spring, MD
#11
Under ideal conditions they will not leak at all, but it is fairly easy for them to leak very slowly.

In the configuration you are using, water pressure helps maintain the seal, so they are likely to be just slightly worse at low speed than at high speed.