Wiring Woes

[mchimes]

Hey Folks,

My pump timer (Intermatic T104P) stopped working, resulting in me having to manually turn it on/off. I decided to replace it with the GE Smart Z-Wave 40-Amp Switch so I could get into automation. The pump is configured for 220 and fed by two 20 amp breakers with a neutral wire (4 wires coming into timer box - ground, line 1, line 2, neutral) at the sub panel near the pump assembly. NOTE: I have turned off all breakers both at the main panel and the sub panel as I took the old timer out. I'm, seeing if I can do this without shelling out for an electrician.

My problem is I'm not sure what to do with the neutral wire given that the pump only provides Load 1, Load 2, and the ground. There was no neutral connected to the pump with the old timer. Here are the two configurations in the Z Wave manual, not sure which to do and where to run the neutral (I've included the old t104 wiring schematic too where the neutral attaches to terminal A).

Thoughts on how to make this connection?
Thanks! Mike

T104 schematic


Z-Wave Dual Load 120 VAC Schematic (both loads monitored)


Z-Wave Dual Load 120 VAC Schematic (Load 1 monitored)

 

[Jimrahbe]

M.

Why would you not use the 240 volt set up???



Just cap off the Neutral wire unless you have other circuits besides the pump..

In theory you are not allowed to use two separate 120 circuit breakers for a 220 volt circuit.. It should be a 240 volt breaker with a bar that connects both the L1 and L2 breaker.
In theory the breaker feeding the pump should be a GFCI breaker..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mchimes]

So, I just talked to an electrician on Just Answer online (paid $5 for a free trial) and he said to just use the 240 VAC configuration and cap the neutral at the timer. Does that sound right?

 

[mchimes]

M.

Why would you not use the 240 volt set up???

View attachment 106914

Just cap off the Neutral wire unless you have other circuits besides the pump..

In theory you are not allowed to use two separate 120 circuit breakers for a 220 volt circuit.. It should be a 240 volt breaker with a bar that connects both the L1 and L2 breaker.
In theory the breaker feeding the pump should be a GFCI breaker..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Haha- see above post- that is what an electrician said. I thought that the neutral had to be safely terminated somewhere. Can you just cap it?

 

[mchimes]

This is the pic of the breaker (also has a pool light breaker). . . some of the neutrals are pig-tailed together so i thought just capping it seemed too easy.

 

[Jimrahbe]

mc,

When we said to cap off the neutral, we were just talking about the end of the neutral wire right inside the timer box. Or don't run a neutral wire to the timer box, at all.. All the other neutral wire connections need to stay just like they are now.

Jim R.

 

[mchimes]

M.

Why would you not use the 240 volt set up???

View attachment 106914

Just cap off the Neutral wire unless you have other circuits besides the pump..

In theory you are not allowed to use two separate 120 circuit breakers for a 220 volt circuit.. It should be a 240 volt breaker with a bar that connects both the L1 and L2 breaker.
In theory the breaker feeding the pump should be a GFCI breaker..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks- based on the pic I sent, that breaker is 2 pole, but doesn't appear to be GFCI. Should I go get the proper breaker from Lowe's? The pool has been running on that breaker for decades- scary.

 

[Jimrahbe]

M,

In the old days it was not a requirement to have a GFCI on anything other than the light. Today, it is local code in most places to require a GFCI breaker for the pump.

I don't see this as an emergency issue, but it would make sense to upgrade the breaker the next time you get a chance.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[mchimes]

Thanks Jim! I got everything working and can now automate my pump from my phone,