Wiring for Pump and heater to Intermatic Multiwave

Rhinoevans

Member
Nov 20, 2020
12
Las Vegas
I just installed a new Multiwave (MW) to my old 60A power panel that had a 220V mechanical timer. On the timer connections for both load 1 and 2, they wired the hots from both the pump and heater under one screw. see attached pic. The black wires on load 1 for pump and heater, and the red wires for load2. I don't think this the the best way to wire. Would a pigtail been more appropriate with the single pigtail under each screw. Anyway I installed the MW last night and plan on the wiring today. Should I take both black hots and wire nut a pigtail to Load1 (Screw 3). and do the same with Load 2 (Load 2 doesn't have a screw, so wired direct to the CB). The other pic is the MW panel for wiring . So run hot from the CB to screw 2. Pigtail the 2 black wire from pump and heater to #3 (The switch). Take other hot from the 2 pole CB and run to screw 1. ( Screw 1 and 2 are the 2 line in for a 220). since no were to attach the load 2 wire from the pump and heater, do another pigtail to screw 1 to include the line 2 hot from CB and the load 2 from the pump and heater. They show a diagram on wire the 220 pool pump. I guess I would be adding the heater to those same connections. The diagram should show a power to screw 1 and power the pump. I know this is probably confusing. Picture2.jpg is my atttempt to show the wiring. Thanks for any help. BTW the connection for the heater is just power. screw 8/9 is for a fireman's switch
 

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Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,254
Bedford, TX
R,

I am not much of a fan of only turning L1 or L2 on and off, when controlling a 240 VAC circuit.. This is because if you shut off the circuit at your controller, you still have 120 VAC at the pump, live all the time.. In theory, you want to control both L1 and L2 at the same time.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,254
Bedford, TX
Also the way they wire a variable speed pump is direct to the CB and controlled by the data cable. SO is this a BAD thing?
R,

The difference with a VS pump is that the only way to shut off power, is to shut off the breaker. There is no controller that removes all or part of the power..

I like the idea of using a relay, but only shutting off one phase is common, it is just something that I don't particular like.

Let me reread your post and see if I can directly answer your questions..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,254
Bedford, TX
R,

Your old timer is wired so that both L1 and L2 are turned on or shut off together.. The contacts in a T104 are rated for 40 amps.

Load 1 (Pin 3) on your new timer can support 17 amps.. I am not sure what amperage your pump and heater pull when turned on at the same time. If less that 17 amps, then you can connect both your heater and pump to pin 3.. Pig tailing them together will work just fine.

You are correct, L1 needs to connect to pin 1.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Rhinoevans

Member
Nov 20, 2020
12
Las Vegas
Wired it up today. All worked well. I did replace on of the 20A breakers with a 15 Amp GFI and wired the pool and spa light to individual circuits on the multwave And bypassed the GFI outlet. Not bad for $199 from eBay. Still need to wire in the landscape lights. Probably make them go through the gfi Outlet.


The pump is 10 and not sure on the Gas heater. I’ll wire it later today and see what happens If load to much I could just wire heater separately
 

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
20,254
Bedford, TX
R,

Just to be clear, your pool and spa light are now GFCI protected by a breaker rather that the original GFCI outlet.. If so, that will work just fine..

Glad it is all working.. :thumleft:

Thanks,

Jim R.