WATERWAY SUPREME (or HAYWARD POWERFLO MATRIX) PUMP MOTOR REPLACEMENT

Texas Splash

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TFP Expert
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Jun 22, 2014
33,605
Texas, San Antonio/Marion, South-Central Area
Pool Size
17888
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Here is my experience for changing the motor on a Waterway Supreme pump. The Hayward Powerflo Matrix pump is basically the same. In fact, that’s the item used in this InyoPools video example:

NOTE: If you are swapping the entire pump assembly from Waterway to Hayward Powerflo or visa-versa, know that while both have 1.5 inch “Internal” port threads, the Wateway’s “external” threads differ from the Hayward. So if your plumbing is connected to the pump by the external union nuts, be prepared to change the fittings for external threads or convert to the 1.5 inch internal port threads.

Waterway Supreme parts illustration: POOL PUMPS & PARTS : SUPREME PUMP PARTS - Waterway Parts Pool Supplies
Hayward Powerflo Matrix parts illustration: Hayward PowerFlo Matrix Pump Parts - INYOPools.com

My factory-installed pump & motor info:
Waterway Supreme Pump P/N: PS2200-6
Waterway Model No: PS-20-2N11CD
Century Motor C48AA70A79R
115V; 2-Speed; 2-HP
AMPS 13.5/4.7
RPM 3450/1725

My New Motor Specs:
BN50V1
115V; 2-Speed; 1.5 HP
AMPS 13.5/4.7
RPM 3450/1725

Additional Parts Required:
Impeller, 1.5 HP: Mfr P/N 310-5100
Shaft Seal: Mfr P/N 319-3010B; or cross-ref to PS-200V-CMS (You can verify your shaft seal at: U.S. Seal MFG. HERE)
Faceplate O-ring (Small): Mfr P/N 805-0330
Volute Housing O-ring (Large): Mfr P/N 805-0001-SPL

STEP 1: Power off (unplug or turn-off breaker)

STEP 2: Close-off valves to the equipment pad and drain water from the pump and filter. This will help keep the area clean once you separate everything.

NOTE: Other pumps have a separate motor mounting plate, seal plate (and seal) which allows you to remove (pull) the motor from the pump basket (wet end) while still connected to plumbing. Unfortunately these pumps have the motor mated to a volute housing which contains the impeller. The plumbing must be disconnected to separate the strainer pot, volute, and motor.

STEP 3: Remove the pump from the equipment pad.
  • Confirm power cord is unplugged or disconnected from the power source, disconnect ground wire.
  • Disconnect the plumbing from the inlet & outlet to the pump.
  • Unscrew the pump from the pad.
  • Take the entire pump assembly to a table or workbench where you can work comfortably.
STEP 4: Remove the wet-end pump basket (aka Strainer Pot) housing. To do this, remove the clear lid and strainer “trap” basket to gain access to, and remove, the retaining clip inside. Once the clip is removed, the entire strainer pot should pull away from the faceplate.

STEP 5: Remove the 8 screws which hold the faceplate to the volute. This will expose the impeller.

STEP 6: Remove impeller. Do this by first removing the rear motor access cover. If you see a center shaft slot for a large screwdriver, use that to secure the center motor shaft. If there is no screw slot, you’ll need a 7/16 open-ended wrench to slip behind the V-shaped center switch to reach and secure the center shaft. Once you have the center shaft secured, you should be able to remove the impeller (counterclockwise). If the impeller is stuck, use a strap wrench to grip the impeller and turn it. If you use any other type of wrench or pliers you run the risk of damaging the impeller.

STEP 7: Remove the impeller housing (volute). To do this, you loosen the four long “thru-bolts located at the rear of the motor. Once loosened, the volute housing should be removed. The volute cosmetic ring/cover may also be removed. Some models it is permanently affixed to the rear of the housing.

STEP 8: Remove the power cord and 2-speed toggle switch (if installed) from the old motor for use on the new motor if needed. HINT: Take a pic of the wiring for future reference just in case.

STEP 9: Remove the old shaft seal parts from the volute housing and impeller.

STEP 10: Install the new shaft seal parts into the volute and impeller. Be careful to not touch the ceramic/carbon surfaces of either part of the seal as they are designed to be pristine and clean as they spin against each other once assembled.
  • On the volute housing, the white ceramic side faces out/forward (towards the impeller). Place a clean cloth over the ceramic side as you press it into the housing. If it’s tight, you may use a small amount of soapy water on the rubber side/end of the seal to help it slide into the volute cavity. Be sure to press the seal straight and evenly all the way into the cavity. Some people will use a 1-inch socket, or a 1-inch PVC coupling to serve as a press. Remember, protect the ceramic surface!
  • On the impeller, the metal side of the seal goes against the impeller body. The carbon side of the seal faces backwards towards the volute to rub against the other (ceramic) part of the seal. Again, be careful not to touch the face of the seal as you twist/press the metal side of the seal flush against the impeller body. If it’s tight, you can use some soapy water here as well.
STEP 11: Prepare the new motor for assembly by removing the rear cover plate. The four thru-bolts may be shipped with nuts at the forward end of the motor, if so, remove them.

STEP 12: Align/attach the volute housing onto the front of the motor and secure with the four thru-bolts/nuts. If the decorative volute ring was removed earlier, you can attached it as well.

STEP 13: Attach the impeller. Remember, you have to secure/stabilize the motor’s center shaft bolt with either a large flathead screwdriver or 7/16 open-ended wrench to keep it from spinning. Now spin the impeller onto the front of the motor shaft clockwise by hand (no tools) until snug. Do NOT overtighten.

STEP 14: Lube and affix a new (large) O-ring to the volute housing.

STEP 15: Attach the faceplate to the volute housing using the 8 screws.

STEP 16: Lube and affix a new faceplate (small) O-ring to the front of the faceplate.

STEP 17: Attach the old power cord and 2-speed toggle switch to the new motor, paying close attention to the wiring configuration for your motor (115V or 230V). Make sure this is correct!

STEP 18: Attach the pump strainer pot to the faceplate; secure with the basket clip inside the pot.

STEP 19: Reconnect the pump assembly at the equipment pad:
  • Connect PVC plumbing to inlet & outlet of pump; use Teflon tape on threads to prevent leaks.
  • Secure the pump assembly to the base of the pad.
  • Connect the grounding cable to the motor housing; connect power cord to power source/timer or plug into outlet.
STEP 20: Insert the strainer pot’s trap basket. Fill the pump’s strainer pot with water to “prime” it and secure with the clear lid cover. Make sure the lid’s O-ring is serviceable and lubed well.

STEP 21: Turn-on the pump and ensure it remains primed with water. Inspect areas for leaks or odd sounds.

Good luck!
 
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