Water Loss/Leak. Need Equipment Pad help!

pirateyoshi

Silver Supporter
Sep 14, 2020
35
Orlando, Florida
Happy new year TFP! I can't wait for the weather to warm up so I can jump into my resurfaced pool! I have to still run the pump more than usual since its still curing (It was done on 12/5 and they did an additional acid wash on 12/28) but I want to at least have it all planned out to get it handled ASAP. If I estimate the rate of water loss I would say it takes about 2 weeks for me to see the water go down below the middle of the skimmer after I fill it up.

Here are my current issues:

  1. Gap between skimmer and concrete
  2. Fair amount of air bubbles coming from the return jets
  3. Leak at the PVC fitting on the pressure side of my pump (I would say it only takes a few seconds to get a drops worth to leak out)
  4. Leak (at least its moist but never enough for a drop of water to happen in my presence) at my stupid chlorinator I never use. Also one I literally just felt (cant see) on the connector to my filter. The glue or whatever on it is flaky.
As far as solutions go here is what I think I need to do.

S1. I can just buy some pool putty and apply it for the skimmer leaks right? Seems to be the easiest thing.

S2. I replaced the grease caps on my jandy valves a few months ago and that helped a lot when the air leak was worse. A small amount of water squirts out of the pool pump lid most of the times I turn off the pump. Part of it is the lid for suresince unless I tighten as hard as I can without tools I get more bubbles than I have now. Still have some even after relubing and really being careful with it today so not really sure what else it could be.

S3+S4. Sigh... cutting it out is the only option right? My father-in-law who would likely be helping me with the plumbing is simultaneously aware of pressure side leaks being un-patchable while also goading me to try Flexseal. Not sure why I need to do something in futility to appease him but thats life! How much would I need to swap out? Since I don't use the chlorinator should I remove it entirely? Obviously want to do as little mucking around as possible. My inlaw is good with pvc fittings but I would love suggestions about unions and other things he would cheap out on if I give him a chance. I guess I would be willing to do more work to have as few fittings as possible.

My filter's PSI is getting high quickly lately but with the resurfacing its kind of a useless metric at the moment.

I do my research well but I always get nervous when it comes to actually taking the plunge. Always appreciate getting your lovely opinions!

filter_chlorinator_leaks.jpg pumpconfig.jpg pumpfittingleak.jpg skimmerleak1.jpg skimmerleak2.jpg
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
22,277
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
1. I would fill the gaps with grout but pool putty will probably work ok.

2. When water is squirting out it means air is getting in. You need to replace the lid O ring or the lid or see if the pump flange is warped.

3. Replumb your pump using pool unions.

4. For a leak at a joint on the pressure side near the pump, run the pump and have some "marine epoxy" mixed and ready, then wait for the leak.

Shut off the pump and quickly dry where the leak is. Apply the epoxy immediately.

Once the pump is off, the water in the filter is no longer pressurized wants to fall out, but atmospheric pressure needs to get in for that to happen. This results in a suction situation were the leak is. The atmosphere will "push" the epoxy into the gap where it was leaking. It may take 2 applications.

Let it set for a day before starting pump.

This works like magic, and has fixed leaks that otherwise would have been a major undertaking. Mainly due to access issues.

Look for LOCTITE marine epoxy, widely available. Slathering PVC glue on the joint can also work.

 

pirateyoshi

Silver Supporter
Sep 14, 2020
35
Orlando, Florida
Just to clarify which of the 3 leaks can I try that epoxy fix at? It sounded like you were saying I can do it with the joint that is attached to the pump on the pressure side but since you mentioned to replumb as well I wanted to be sure. It would be nice to patch up the leaks and then leave the replumbing for a bigger project altogether if possible!

Also the Loctite marine epoxy I see comes with a self-mixing applicator of sorts. Would I be able to just point and squeeze then?
 
Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
22,277
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
You can try the marine epoxy on both leaks. If it doesn't work you are no worse off. I would do them one at a time and see how it goes.

I have not used the self mixing applicator but it sounds like it should work.
 

jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
3,183
Morris Cnty NJ
I would cut the filter discharge pipe amd put a new line out going parallel to the slab and then elbow straight down, eliminate the chlorintaor totally. Same on pump side. A new male adapter or pump amd filter unions and eliminate the spigot. Easy plumbing work very simple and cheap fixes.
Allen is spot on with the lid and or gasket that's easy too
Who did the tile work? Why no grout there or epoxy seal?
 

pirateyoshi

Silver Supporter
Sep 14, 2020
35
Orlando, Florida
So we are going to get this project done finally. When it rains it pours- more joints are showing leaks now so unless the area is perfect I want to replace as many sections as I can. I did want to ask about how the pipes would work on the Chlorinator side. Can we just install a long pipe with elbows where needed like this? I didn't know when/why you have to make pipes go up a bit like they did here.

143870587_756093058675898_821266930933685369_n_LI.jpg

For the area near the pump is there really anyway to optimize it? It seems like the pipes in between are all fine but there are leaks both at the exit of the pump and the entrance of the filter. I have to imagine its hard to fix just the isolated areas so should I be redoing the whole path?

143766126_1056834401479914_8692322849551459232_n_LI.jpg
 

jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
3,183
Morris Cnty NJ
Replace it all theres nothing there to repair. Dont overthink it this is super simple. If your unsure of your skills this is an hour tops for a plumber just buy all materials ahead of time like unions and fittings amd pay for an hour of labor
 

pirateyoshi

Silver Supporter
Sep 14, 2020
35
Orlando, Florida
You have a fair point, I dont think we will have any issues with the actual labor but I guess I am just wondering if all the bends the current path takes is necessary or not. Would be less to fix down the road if not!
 

jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
3,183
Morris Cnty NJ
Theres many ways to plumb and each guy is different. No reason to not make straight shots like u drew up the pic. Simple is better