Water Chemistry for New Fiberglass Pool

Stephz520

Active member
May 10, 2021
33
Austin
Pool Size
11346
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi TFP friends,

I’ve had some practice with an above ground pool, but just had a fiberglass pool installed. The pool came with a chlorinator that the crew filled with tabs when they installed it, but I’ve been using 12.5% liquid chlorine following the suggestions here. I added some granule CYA but was hesitant to add too much because I was unsure what the tabs would do. It’s been a few weeks and my CYA is still below 30. The dot never disappears on my test kit. Would you suggest I add more? Also, the pool company said I needed to add jacks pink stuff weekly which I’m doing. PH has been at 7.4 pool math says it should be 7.6. The water is looking great, just looking for reassurance that I’m on the right track. Thanks!
 
Would you suggest I add more?
Yes. We still have some hot TX sun for another 2-3 months, so I would increase the CYA to 50.

the pool company said I needed to add jacks pink stuff weekly which I’m doing.
Did they say why? I don't see why you would need anything like that unless your local water is known to have metals in it.
 
It says to prevent staining
If you have no significant iron in the city water like people who are on a well, and do not add copper-based products to your water from the pool store, a sequestrant shouldn't be necessary. Certainly your call, but you might look into that a bit more.
 
Hi - your pool math logs show a pool that is not under control. You have almost no FC and I'm worried that you're missing the basics of the TFP method.

Are you maintaining the pool directly or do you have a pool service? How do you plan to maintain the pool moving forward? Right now, you're spending money on things you don't need (Jack's) and missing the things you REALLY DO NEED (sanitizing chlorine.)

I'd recommend immediately dosing the pool to at least 5ppm, but better 10ppm of liquid chlorine at dusk. Perform an overnight chlorine loss test as you're been in prime algae territory. Raise the CYA to 30, and prepare to SLAM. Then we can get you squared away.


 
Hi - your pool math logs show a pool that is not under control. You have almost no FC and I'm worried that you're missing the basics of the TFP method.

Are you maintaining the pool directly or do you have a pool service? How do you plan to maintain the pool moving forward? Right now, you're spending money on things you don't need (Jack's) and missing the things you REALLY DO NEED (sanitizing chlorine.)

I'd recommend immediately dosing the pool to at least 5ppm, but better 10ppm of liquid chlorine at dusk. Perform an overnight chlorine loss test as you're been in prime algae territory. Raise the CYA to 30, and prepare to SLAM. Then we can get you squared away.


Hi. I’m maintaining it myself for now. I’ve added granular CYA and I’ve been putting liquid chlorine in it daily to keep it sanitizer. My CYA was low so pool math said I needed to keep the chlorine at 1ppm. Was afraid the tabs were going to raise the CYA too much.
 
My CYA was low so pool math said I needed to keep the chlorine at 1ppm.
This is where we at TFP come in to help. :) A couple reminder first. CYA is needed because it not only protects the pool and swimmers from the effects of chlorine, it protects the chlorine itself from the sun. Something we in TX know a lot about. When a pool owner knows their CYA, they go to the FC/CYA Levels which tells them what their FC level should be based on the current CYA.

In your case, the PoolMath APP tried to help you match those two numbers, but it might not understand you live in TX and need much more stabilizer (CYA) and free chlorine. Without those, your water will get cloudy quick which is the onset of algae. FYI - CYA should never be less than 30 unless you have an indoor pool.

Pool chemistry isn't difficult once you know a few basic tips and use a good test kit like your K-2006. All you need now is some coaching to put it all together. But be sure to get the CYA up to at least 40-50 since it's still hot in our areas and keep the FC balanced per the FC/CYA Levels. That is essential. If your water gets cloudy, algae has already started and will require a different treatment plan. Keep us posted and let us know if you have any other questions.
 
This is where we at TFP come in to help. :) A couple reminder first. CYA is needed because it not only protects the pool and swimmers from the effects of chlorine, it protects the chlorine itself from the sun. Something we in TX know a lot about. When a pool owner knows their CYA, they go to the FC/CYA Levels which tells them what their FC level should be based on the current CYA.

In your case, the PoolMath APP tried to help you match those two numbers, but it might not understand you live in TX and need much more stabilizer (CYA) and free chlorine. Without those, your water will get cloudy quick which is the onset of algae. FYI - CYA should never be less than 30 unless you have an indoor pool.

Pool chemistry isn't difficult once you know a few basic tips and use a good test kit like your K-2006. All you need now is some coaching to put it all together. But be sure to get the CYA up to at least 40-50 since it's still hot in our areas and keep the FC balanced per the FC/CYA Levels. That is essential. If your water gets cloudy, algae has already started and will require a different treatment plan. Keep us posted and let us know if you have any other questions.
Thank you so much for the helpful info!! I’ve been adding CYA granules in a sock to bring it up. In all that I’ve read I’ve been afraid for the CYA to get too high do I was baby stepping it. I’ll be sure to bring it up to 50 and go from there. I appreciate the guidance!!!
 
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Thank you so much for the helpful info!! I’ve been adding CYA granules in a sock to bring it up. In all that I’ve read I’ve been afraid for the CYA to get too high do I was baby stepping it. I’ll be sure to bring it up to 50 and go from there. I appreciate the guidance!!!
Before going to 50, I’d stop at 30 and an overnight chlorine loss test. It’s very likely you have algae and it’s much easier to SLAM at 30, then 50 or higher.
 

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Before going to 50, I’d stop at 30 and an overnight chlorine loss test. It’s very likely you have algae and it’s much easier to SLAM at 30, then 50 or higher.
Ok. I did the oclt and failed so I’m slamming. Yesterday we brushed and vacuumed and brought the chlorine up to 14ppm (a little higher than the recommended 12ppm). This morning it was at 11 before the sun came up. It came down to 7ppm at 1pm so I added the recommended amount of chlorine, brushed and vacuumed with my handheld and at 2:30pm we’re back to 7ppm. Should I be checking it this much to keep it at 12ppm or should I chill out a little bit?
 
Hi TFP friends,

I’ve had some practice with an above ground pool, but just had a fiberglass pool installed. The pool came with a chlorinator that the crew filled with tabs when they installed it, but I’ve been using 12.5% liquid chlorine following the suggestions here. I added some granule CYA but was hesitant to add too much because I was unsure what the tabs would do. It’s been a few weeks and my CYA is still below 30. The dot never disappears on my test kit. Would you suggest I add more? Also, the pool company said I needed to add jacks pink stuff weekly which I’m doing. PH has been at 7.4 pool math says it should be 7.6. The water is looking great, just looking for reassurance that I’m on the right track. Thanks!
This is where we at TFP come in to help. :) A couple reminder first. CYA is needed because it not only protects the pool and swimmers from the effects of chlorine, it protects the chlorine itself from the sun. Something we in TX know a lot about. When a pool owner knows their CYA, they go to the FC/CYA Levels which tells them what their FC level should be based on the current CYA.

In your case, the PoolMath APP tried to help you match those two numbers, but it might not understand you live in TX and need much more stabilizer (CYA) and free chlorine. Without those, your water will get cloudy quick which is the onset of algae. FYI - CYA should never be less than 30 unless you have an indoor pool.

Pool chemistry isn't difficult once you know a few basic tips and use a good test kit like your K-2006. All you need now is some coaching to put it all together. But be sure to get the CYA up to at least 40-50 since it's still hot in our areas and keep the FC balanced per the FC/CYA Levels. That is essential. If your water gets cloudy, algae has already started and will require a different treatment plan. Keep us posted and let us know if you have any other questions.
Ok. I did the oclt and failed so I’m slamming. Yesterday we brushed and vacuumed and brought the chlorine up to 14ppm (a little higher than the recommended 12ppm). This morning it was at 11 before the sun came up. It came down to 7ppm at 1pm so I added the recommended amount of chlorine, brushed and vacuumed with my handheld and at 2:30pm we’re back to 7ppm. Should I be checking it this much to keep it at 12ppm or should I chill out a little bit?
 
Ok. I did the oclt and failed so I’m slamming. Yesterday we brushed and vacuumed and brought the chlorine up to 14ppm (a little higher than the recommended 12ppm). This morning it was at 11 before the sun came up. It came down to 7ppm at 1pm so I added the recommended amount of chlorine, brushed and vacuumed with my handheld and at 2:30pm we’re back to 7ppm. Should I be checking it this much to keep it at 12ppm or should I chill out a little bit?
During the earlier parts of the slam you want to test as often as possible and keep it at slam level each time. First 2 days of my slam earlier this summer I checked every 1.5-2 hr and added back. Later I would check it every few hrs on break from work.
 
Hi TFP,

Not sure how to continue on my original thread. I’ve been slamming the last few days. Last night I went to bed and was at 12ppm and when I woke up I was at 10ppm, I will continue slamming until I’ve lost 1ppm or less. I vacuumed and cleaned the filter this morning and eventually got down to 9ppm. It’s supposed to rain the next few days. The water looks great. Question is…when it rains will that throw off this process? Also, we live in Texas and have kids and usually have a lot of friends and neighbors swimming on the weekends. Once I’m done slamming Will the water stay balanced better considering these factors? I know I will need to monitor chlorine daily but once I pass the oclt will I be in a better place to maintain? I know the info says there’s no need to slam weekly, but would you add extra chlorine after a bunch of people have been in the pool? Thank you for your guidance. This forum has helped me learn so much!!!
 
when it rains will that throw off this process?
No. Stick with the SLAM Process, it works. I'll look for your other thread to see if this should all be combined.

Once I’m done slamming Will the water stay balanced better considering these factors?
Pools eat chlorine based on a variety of factors (bathers load, weather, etc). Be sure to test everyday in the summer months and you should be fine. You can always add a little extra chlorine just before/after a swim party.
 
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Ok TFP one last question for now. My slam is done. Water looks good. Numbers look good. The pump…when the pool was installed earlier this month the tech said the pump needed to run 12 hours a day so he set it to 10am-10pm is this sufficient or should we set a different schedule so it isn’t off for such a long stretch?
 
The pump is run for a reason. Your primary reason is to skim the surface and distribute the chemicals when you add them.

What type of pump do you have? Please add it to your signature.

If a VS pump, low rpm for 12 hours is fine. If a Single Speed pump, you can likely run it less, if that sufficiently skims the surface.
 
The pump is run for a reason. Your primary reason is to skim the surface and distribute the chemicals when you add them.

What type of pump do you have? Please add it to your signature.

If a VS pump, low rpm for 12 hours is fine. If a Single Speed pump, you can likely run it less, if that sufficiently skims the surface.
It’s a Hayward Omnilogic. I thought I did add it to my signature. 🤔
 
That is your automation system. Post a picture of your pump with labels and we can help you with what pump you have.
 
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