duraleigh said:
I will retest later tonight. I probably have about 10,000 more gallons needed in the pool. I would assume that will change my results. I hope it will lower my CYA.
Very Very Low pH. TA Fine
- Thread starter midwestboat
- Start date
I will retest later tonight. I probably have about 10,000 more gallons needed in the pool. I would assume that will change my results. I hope it will lower my CYA.
Given your CYA was likely over 1000, 300 doesn't seem out of the question. You may need to do another partial. But, when numbers get this far out of range, conventional wisdom often goes out the window.
When you get your kit, you may want to dillute your pool water with distilled water for your CYA test if you suspect that it is still over 100 or so. This should give you a more accurate reading at the higher numbers to give you a better refill target.
After you get your CYA to a more managable level, you will want to shock with ordinary bleach.
Now, since you are filling from a well, I wouldn't be TOO surprised if your shock turned your water green. If you have a high metal content from the well, it's possible. You may want to get your water tested for metals before your shock, or be prepared to get a sequesterant (sp?) in there if your water starts going green as you are shocking.
But, that's not the priority right now... Let's get your CYA under control, post some good starting numbers, and take it one step at a time.
Given what you have added to your pool in the past, you will probably be surprised at how little it will take, and how easy it will be.
When you get your kit, you may want to dillute your pool water with distilled water for your CYA test if you suspect that it is still over 100 or so. This should give you a more accurate reading at the higher numbers to give you a better refill target.
After you get your CYA to a more managable level, you will want to shock with ordinary bleach.
Now, since you are filling from a well, I wouldn't be TOO surprised if your shock turned your water green. If you have a high metal content from the well, it's possible. You may want to get your water tested for metals before your shock, or be prepared to get a sequesterant (sp?) in there if your water starts going green as you are shocking.
But, that's not the priority right now... Let's get your CYA under control, post some good starting numbers, and take it one step at a time.
Given what you have added to your pool in the past, you will probably be surprised at how little it will take, and how easy it will be.
Okay, I have drained twice and am full and circulating for 24 hours. I had my wife take a sample to the local pool store who does computer tests on the water, I had them call me with the results.
PH 7.6
TA 200
CYA 100
FC 0
CC .2
He told me to add 5 bags burn out. I told him to send my wife home with 12 gallons of liquid Chlorine and one bottle of Flock. Keep is mind I will test when I get home tonight with my new Awesome test kit, "Thanks Duraleigh!!" and double check. These numbers are on a second refill with no chemicals added. Pool guy asked why liquid, I told him I didnt want to use any Tri chlor or Di chlor products as they would alter my CYA and PH. He agreed and was suprised by my new found knowledge and told me pure liquid would add to my TDS and that would cause problems down the road. I told him just send home the liquid for now. Questions I have on next steps to take. assuming my test confirm pool guys findings.
Flock first and drop metals from well water? Pool is clear can see bottom but yellowish brown.
add liquid chlorine after flock as not to sweep chlorine to waste cleaning up flock?
Shock and wait for pool to clear? Thanks for all the help here as I really appreciate everything this site has to offer. Also is it ok to backwash once a day for a couple days. to get the Rusty water out of filter?
PH 7.6
TA 200
CYA 100
FC 0
CC .2
He told me to add 5 bags burn out. I told him to send my wife home with 12 gallons of liquid Chlorine and one bottle of Flock. Keep is mind I will test when I get home tonight with my new Awesome test kit, "Thanks Duraleigh!!" and double check. These numbers are on a second refill with no chemicals added. Pool guy asked why liquid, I told him I didnt want to use any Tri chlor or Di chlor products as they would alter my CYA and PH. He agreed and was suprised by my new found knowledge and told me pure liquid would add to my TDS and that would cause problems down the road. I told him just send home the liquid for now. Questions I have on next steps to take. assuming my test confirm pool guys findings.
Flock first and drop metals from well water? Pool is clear can see bottom but yellowish brown.
add liquid chlorine after flock as not to sweep chlorine to waste cleaning up flock?
Shock and wait for pool to clear? Thanks for all the help here as I really appreciate everything this site has to offer. Also is it ok to backwash once a day for a couple days. to get the Rusty water out of filter?
We are in our third season using BBB and every once in awhile, I have the TDS checked just for the fun of it. The other day, it was 700, not that TDS matters. Just thought I'd let you know that after two full seasons and on our third season (and we do not ever close our pool down, even in winter) of BBB, TDS is very low!
Cherie said:
I am so excited about this forum and its wisdom. I was ready to bulldoz the inground a couple of weeks ago. I am so glad I found this place. Thanks again.
OK...
Things are looking much better. Your CYA is still high. Don't know how receptive you would be to another 1/2 drain and refill.
Do your own test tonight, and see what the actual CYA numbers are.
At 100, it's possible, but it may not be pretty.
You are starting to get a picture of how the pool stores will ride you down the wrong path. Suggesting that you worry about TDS, while at the same time suggesting you add stuff that will add to your already high CYA.
Things are looking much better. Your CYA is still high. Don't know how receptive you would be to another 1/2 drain and refill.
Do your own test tonight, and see what the actual CYA numbers are.
At 100, it's possible, but it may not be pretty.
You are starting to get a picture of how the pool stores will ride you down the wrong path. Suggesting that you worry about TDS, while at the same time suggesting you add stuff that will add to your already high CYA.
Oh... one more thing... You mention that you got a "flock" to get out the metals.
It may be a matter of semantics, but "flock" isn't really used for metals. You want a "sequesterant". But, maybe we are just calling the same thing different names. What is the name of the "flock" you got?
It may be a matter of semantics, but "flock" isn't really used for metals. You want a "sequesterant". But, maybe we are just calling the same thing different names. What is the name of the "flock" you got?
ALL forms of chlorine contribute to TDS, mainly in the form of salt.
Now that you have your own test kit, if CYA shows >100, I would dilute the sample using 1 part pool water, 2 parts tap water. Then triple whatever the reading is on the diluted sample. This will give you an idea of how much more draining you need to do.
--paulr
Now that you have your own test kit, if CYA shows >100, I would dilute the sample using 1 part pool water, 2 parts tap water. Then triple whatever the reading is on the diluted sample. This will give you an idea of how much more draining you need to do.
--paulr