Update: Spillway Redo

ventinc

0
Silver Supporter
Mar 19, 2009
13
Folsom, CA
My stone on the spa spillway needs to be re-done. Water is seeping under the spillway stone when it is on. Here is my plan and looking for advice:

1. Empty spa and float a tarp over the pool, attached to the pool tile with stucco tape to keep debris out of water.
2. Remove stone, chisel and remove all grout, grind down previous mortar bed (how far should I grind, chip, chisel this down?)
3. Inspect spa shell for cracks.
4. Build the spillover area back up with hydraulic cement or a waterproof mortar if necessary once old mortar is removed.
5. Cut 1/8 inch grooves in new mortar bed and in the bottom of the stone
6. Apply Hydra Ban to the new mortar bed.
7. Use 254 Platinum Thinset to reset the spillover stone.
8. Use an Epoxy grout to grout in the stone.
8. Cut a 1/4 groove underneath the stone spillover to break the surface water tension when spillover is running.

Am I missing any steps? Product choices are acceptable? Masonry Advice? This problem seems to occur with a tons of pools so I would like to document each step of this process and have a successful outcome for others to review later on.

I did an owner/build on this pool 10 years ago and did a lot of the work myself. (Not the stone though). I am very familiar with the pool but I want to make sure this is done right so I don't get spillway water leaking underneath/behind the spillway stone.
 

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Update: I have removed all the spillway stone. I have also chiseled out most of the pre-existing mortar that the stone was laid down on. Next I will use a grinder wheel to even out the surface of the spillway to finalize demo.

The red line is the seam where the mortar and rock work meet the gunite spa shell. There is a crevice along the red line and that is where spa water has been leaking under the spillover stone and down to the pool when the spillover mode is on. The obvious concern here is the spa water eroding the mortar holding the stone in place which must be corrected to prevent stone from eventually falling of into the pool.

New course of action:
1. Fill the crevice with epoxy injection resin. The job is to cover the seam in epoxy but leave ports sealed into the epoxy and open to the seam. Then I will inject epoxy resin as far down as necessary to make sure all voids on the mortar have been filled in.

2. Grind out the epoxy and prep the gunite for hydraulic cement. Lay a bed of hydraulic cement is the base for the installation of the new stone spillway.

3. Use Hydro Ban (a Laticrete product) to waterproof the entire area of the spillway. It is a brush on membrane similar to redgard.

4. Use Laticrete Platinum 254 to adhere the stone to the Hydro Ban prepped hydraulic cement.

5. Use spectralock epoxy grout to seal in the stone to ensure water flows over the spillway stone and not underneath it.

6. Use silicone sealant at all corners and edges to prevent water intrusion.

It's like triple protection but I am determined to keep pool and spa water where it belongs so my pool lasts a lifetime. I'll post pictures of each step. If your experienced at this kind of work, feel free to comment.

IMG_2470.jpgIMG_2496.jpg
 
I did an owner/build on this pool 10 years ago and did a lot of the work myself.

Ok... So now I am even more impressed with you and your pool.. What a great job. Sorry, I can not help with the products involved with with your re-build but it certainly looks like you have in nailed...

Love your water color... Is that really 10 yr old colored plaster? From the pics it looks in great shape and you did not suffer the "color change / mottling" that most colored pools seem to have. What color is it?
 
Shoot I cant remember the color but the plaster is in great shape for 10 years. I hope to get another 10 out of it.

I chipped out any loose mortar and applied the epoxy over the seam and glued the ports into place. After letting it set I injected the epoxy resin into the voids of the mortar. It took a lot of epoxy resin to fill in the seam and any voids.

Next Steps:
-Grind down high spots and gunite close to level.
-Fill in the low spots with mortar and make a thin but level mortar bed. Do I need a bonding adhesive first?
-Apply Hydro Ban to the level new mortar bed once its cured.
-Use Platinum 254 1/8" thickness to set the new flat stone.
-The new flat stone is thicker then the old flat stone so the spa water level will be about 3/4 inch higher then it was before.
IMG_2510.jpgspa.jpgspa 2.jpg
 
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Shoot I cant remember the color but the plaster is in great shape for 10 years. I hope to get another 10 out of it.

I hope you do as well... Your pool should be the poster child for what a colored plaster surface can look like if the right applicator does the job and it is properly maintained.
 
Shoot I cant remember the color but the plaster is in great shape for 10 years. I hope to get another 10 out of it.

I chipped out any loose mortar and applied the epoxy over the seam and glued the ports into place. After letting it set I injected the epoxy resin into the voids of the mortar. It took a lot of epoxy resin to fill in the seam and any voids.

Next Steps:
-Grind down high spots and gunite close to level.
-Fill in the low spots with mortar and make a thin but level mortar bed. Do I need a bonding adhesive first?
-Apply Hydro Ban to the level new mortar bed once its cured.
-Use Platinum 254 1/8" thickness to set the new flat stone.
-The new flat stone is thicker then the old flat stone so the spa water level will be about 3/4 inch higher then it was before.
View attachment 113934View attachment 113937View attachment 113938
Did you have any issues with the raised water line? My water line is 1.5" from the coping and I think that may be an issue. Please let me know.
 
The use of this membrane is not recommended where negative hydrostatic pressure or excessive moisture vapor transmission exist...I used the Aquron product in my SPA...unfortunately, the stone masons also screwed up my spillway...water is also seeping below the stone. Not sure if I should fix it now, or let nature do its thing, my spillway runs 8 hours per day, so never really dries...I also used 254, apparently there is a better product now.
 

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