Huh? Not sure I understand your post. The IC40 seems to maintain a 'Salt Good' indication above around 2900ppm. I am going to shoot to get ppm to 3400 and then when it drops to 3000 it's as simple as adding one bag of salt to get it back to 3400ppm.I ran my salt around 3800 since that was where the cell would maintain a reading above 2800. At a level of 3800, I think my cell would read 3200. That is below the threshold for the IC40, which is 4500 ppm, I think. I would love to run mine lower, but the salt cell won't have it.
I see that option...I would rather use the SWCG as I paid for the convenience and don't mind replacing it sooner by using it.I’ve turned my IC40 off (ie set to 0) here in Houston and will chlorinate with liquid chlorine until May. Once a week like last several years. I always regardless keep my salt at 4000 ppm (that’s from the Taylor kit) My SWG reads 200 ppm in summer lower than actual and 400/500 ppm lower in the colder water. I don’t see any reason to run the SWG in the winter and use up shelf life. My daily Free Chlorine demand is 0.5 ppm. You probably experience very similar FC demand.
Not sure TFP "recommends" 3,000, but I have seen people state that they like to keep their salt at the low end of the range.
Thanks. I have it at 3800 right now (measured). I will float it bewteen 3200 and 3600 as that is exactly 1 bag of salt for my pool volume.Different model SWGs have different low and high salt requirements. All too often folks do not pay attention to what model SWG is being discussed.
Hayward cells burn out boards if SWG is run too high. Therefore it is recommended the Aquarites be run around 3000 at the low end of the range.
Intellichlor sweet spot is around 3400-3600 as measured by the Taylor K-1766 kit. Don’t skew the salt ppm because the cell guesstimate is low.