- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Great. Once you are able to fill the remaining amount circulate the pool for a good 24 hours before doing a final CYA test.
Trying to get the CYA under control.
- Thread starter LordBob
- Start date
Great. Once you are able to fill the remaining amount circulate the pool for a good 24 hours before doing a final CYA test.
Do NOT let the test sit and then add the drops again. The test is complete once it turns clear the first time. Do the CC test immediately after the FC test. Just remember the number of drops for the FC test, add 5 drops of R-0003 and do the CC test.
Okay thanks, I have been, but now I know.
What is the opinion of using borate? I just watched a YouTube video that says it stabilizes the Ph, and will reduce the amount of chlorine usage, as well as the acid, it will make the pool more sparkly, and soften the water. It's mostly the reduction of chemical usage that intrigues me, but sparklier and softer water is always appealing too. sparkle
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Borates - Why and How
Borates will not reduce the amount of acid you need. Just how often you add it.
It will not reduce chlorine requirements.
It will soften the water. Salt does the same thing.
Borates will not reduce the amount of acid you need. Just how often you add it.
It will not reduce chlorine requirements.
It will soften the water. Salt does the same thing.
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,204
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
This one took a while for me to grasp back when I was a recent Pool School grad. So if you normally need to add 1 gallon of MA per week, if you bring your borate level to 50 PPM, you may now have to add 2 gallons to get the same pH drop, but it will "last" for 2 weeks. So you would still use the same MA over time. My numbers/quantities were hypothetical just to point out the concept.
Keep in mind that as with CYA, borates will be removed from your pool over time due to splashout/carryout of water (though they don't evaporate). So you will need to be checking and topping them off as needed. So aside from reducing the frequency of MA additions, borates justs costs money keeping it at the proper levels.
I'm sorry I didn't mean for it to sound like it would decrease the amount needed, but the frequency. From what the guy on the video said, it stabilizes the Ph, so you don't have to adjust your Ph as often, and like CYA it will also help stabilize the chlorine so it's not burned through as fast on hot days.
I have learned in my research that there are a lot of people out there that have a lot of different ideas.
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So does this mean Borate is used instead of CYA, or as far as the properties of it are similar to CYA?
- Jul 16, 2012
- 7,204
- Pool Size
- 27000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No not using instead, just the similar property of needing to be replenished from time to time.
No, it just has some similar properties but won't stabilize the chlorine.
I use both borates and salt in my pool and love them. The big drawback is that the water gets so clear it can be hard to tell when I need to add more.
So I opened up the filter to clean it. I knew it was going to be pretty bad, because the guy I'm filling in for said the people that installed the filter last year said he didn't need to clean the filter EVER! I'm pretty sure they meant till the beginning of this swim season LOL. I never expected it to be this bad though:
The last one in the bottom of a large trash can that I scooped out of from the bottom of the filter canister. There must have been 50 lbs of DE just caked in there. I'm amazed water even circulated through the filter. Ummmm Yeah you DO need to clean the filter.
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sorry the pictures are so big I thought it would make them thumbnails that could be clicked on.
The last one in the bottom of a large trash can that I scooped out of from the bottom of the filter canister. There must have been 50 lbs of DE just caked in there. I'm amazed water even circulated through the filter. Ummmm Yeah you DO need to clean the filter.
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sorry the pictures are so big I thought it would make them thumbnails that could be clicked on.
Yes you do. We recommend a full tear down once a year. I actually do not really backwash any more and just tear the filter down a few times a year as needed.
DeanP66
0
Wow! That is really caked up isn't it? Good decision to tear it down and change it. Be sure to take the drain plug out from the bottom and flush all the filthy water out the bottom as well.
I don't have the same style DE filter (mine has tubes, not grids) but I have NEVER backwashed my system... I don't even have a backwash option without re-piping. As it's easy for me to open the filter head without loosing water or media, I just pop it open and look inside.
When I see it looking like below, I clean the tubes.
When I see clean tubes, I just change the media based on when my pressures rise too quickly after I "bump" the media. If after I bump the media, the pressures either don't return the "low" normal range or they climb to "high" (about +5 psi over low).
When I see it looking like below, I clean the tubes.
When I see clean tubes, I just change the media based on when my pressures rise too quickly after I "bump" the media. If after I bump the media, the pressures either don't return the "low" normal range or they climb to "high" (about +5 psi over low).
Yeah, I'm guessing he was just putting the DE in all last year, and never even back flushed it. OMG there is a drain plug? I love this sight, I was going to take my shop vac to it, but wasn't really looking forward to that. I'll have to figure out where that is for sure. Never even crossed my mind there might be a drain plug LOL. Thanks
Filter all Cleaned and running, Will let it run for a few hours and take a water sample, and see where we are. What is that in the last picture, and what does it tell me?
Wow, much cleaner!
That blue & clear thing is a flow meter. It says 110 gpm (gallons per minute) through that pipe. That’s a lot of flow!
That blue & clear thing is a flow meter. It says 110 gpm (gallons per minute) through that pipe. That’s a lot of flow!
I kind of doubt you really have that much flow. Those have a very large error band. Should work to observe trends though
Preliminary Test:
FC: 0.5
Ph: 8.2
CH: 375
TA: 140
CYA: 40
Added Chlorine, and acid per Pool Math. How long should I let the pump run before testing again? I was thinking 2 or 3 hours would suffice.
FC: 0.5
Ph: 8.2
CH: 375
TA: 140
CYA: 40
Added Chlorine, and acid per Pool Math. How long should I let the pump run before testing again? I was thinking 2 or 3 hours would suffice.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Okay, just tested after letting the pump run through the afternoon and evening.
Chlor: 5.0
Ph: 7.5
FC: 5.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 275
TA: 130
CYA: 22
I know the CYA is low now for what ever reason, seems like everything else is okay though.
Chlor: 5.0
Ph: 7.5
FC: 5.5
CC: 0.5
CH: 275
TA: 130
CYA: 22
I know the CYA is low now for what ever reason, seems like everything else is okay though.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,369
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40