Trying to get balanced...

[Jay2d2]

Hello! So our pool was installed early July. After it was full we had the first test done at pool store. The printout we received said to add calcium, salt and stabilizer. The person at the store said not to add the stabilizer because were using salt.

3 weeks later we have re tested and again it says to add calcium, stabilizer oxy shock and ph down. This time they said only worry about ph down and oxy shock because we had very high ph 8.2 and very high chloramines. And not to worry about calcium and stabilizer. Also to turn down swg because the excessive chlorine generation was causing the chloramines. So we turned down to 40% running 24 hours.

3rd test 2 weeks later, basically same as 2nd, high chloramines, ph and free chlorine. Said to oxy shock again and add algaecide and turn down 20%.

Should i be concerned about stab and calcium? At store he said only add oxy shock when they said to but on package it says to add weekly 129gram for maintenance?

 

[wireform]

Hi and welcome,
What you should really be concerned about is the dishonesty of the pool store advice. As long as you come back for the bait they will bait you. You've come to the right place and need to decide if your staying with TFP advice or pool store nonsense. Both methods can NOT coexist. Look at my signature below and create one for yourself. Also get the TF-100 test kit linked below along with a magnetic speedstir that will make testing a breeze and keep it fun and not feel like a chore. Read pool school where all the information resides. Come back with any questions you may have.

 

[Jay2d2]

Thank you for that, what was really upsetting is that when we quoted the pool this store seemed the most honest and up front, really laying out all our choices where as the others were all pushing for one particular set up. I will not be bothering to go back there. I do plan to invest in a better test kit but North of the border they seem to over priced and unavailable at the moment.

 

[Jeff J.]

Thank you for that, what was really upsetting is that when we quoted the pool this store seemed the most honest and up front, really laying out all our choices where as the others were all pushing for one particular set up. I will not be bothering to go back there. I do plan to invest in a better test kit but North of the border they seem to over priced and unavailable at the moment.

They may be honest, but their testing is unreliable. Read Pool School on this site.

 

[Jeff J.]

Hello! So our pool was installed early July. After it was full we had the first test done at pool store. The printout we received said to add calcium, salt and stabilizer. The person at the store said not to add the stabilizer because were using salt.

3 weeks later we have re tested and again it says to add calcium, stabilizer oxy shock and ph down. This time they said only worry about ph down and oxy shock because we had very high ph 8.2 and very high chloramines. And not to worry about calcium and stabilizer. Also to turn down swg because the excessive chlorine generation was causing the chloramines. So we turned down to 40% running 24 hours.

3rd test 2 weeks later, basically same as 2nd, high chloramines, ph and free chlorine. Said to oxy shock again and add algaecide and turn down 20%.

Should i be concerned about stab and calcium? At store he said only add oxy shock when they said to but on package it says to add weekly 129gram for maintenance?

Regarding what they told you:

You do need stabilizer (CYA) with an SWG. In fact TFP recommends a higher level with an SWG.

You should lower PH if it is really 8.2. Muriatic acid is better than PH Down. But there's no way to be sure their test is right.

Excessive chlorine does not cause chloramines. Chloramines are produced when chlorine oxidizes something, like algae. If anything, low chlorine can cause excessive chloramines.

Don't bother with oxy shock or algaecide.

You need to know and post full, accurate numbers:

FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA

If you have high chloramines, you may have an algae problem, even if you can't see it. You probably need to do a SLAM. It's hard to do it without a proper test kit, though.

There are threads here about how to acquire test kits is Canada. Look them up.

In the meantime, I would turn up your SWG to add at least 5 ppm chlorine per day.

There are experts on here, so take their advice over mine!

 

[Jay2d2]

I must get a good testing kit for my first step. Right now i have strips, aquacheck 6 in 1. When I test with those they show ph at about 7.4, when I test with the drop kit that came with pool, add 4 red drops of phenol red it shows very dark almost off the scale red.

 

[Jay2d2]

This is the last testing from the pool store. It's in French but pretty straightforward... dureté is hardness, sel is salt, chlore libre is free chlorine

 

[Jay2d2]

two weeks earlier this is what we had.

 

[Jeff J.]

P

View attachment 158451 two weeks earlier this is what we had.

If those numbers have any validity, you need to get the CYA up. The recommended level for SWG pools is 70-80, and your test shows basically 0. This means the chlorine vanishes almost instantly in the sun, and is also much more harsh. Look up Pool School for how to add CYA. Secondarily, you should get the PH down. Anywhere from 7.2-8.0 is considered fine. The favored way to do that is muriatic acid, but you can also use dry acid. I don't have an SWG, so I don't know if your salt level is good. You should check your manual. I wouldn't worry about the other levels. Use PoolMath to figure how much to add.

Again, if the testing is way off, this may all be invalid. But you have to work with what you got.

BTW, I took French from grades 4-11. I won awards in it. Forty years later I still can't speak it, lol.

 

[Jay2d2]

I'm definitely done with the pool store testing and I will be adding cya. What is confusing me is that my basic drop test kit shows high ph and the test strips show perfect ph. Should I be concerned about alkalinity before ph?

I will purchase the better kit next year hut since in my area we will be closing in less than a month i will wait and have fresh chemicals for next year. Same thing for muriatic acid. Since the store already talked me into the ph down I will use that till end of this year and start next season with muriatic acid if need be.

 

[CrystalRiver]

Leave the alkalinity alone. Under 50 or so, and pH will swing wildly. Anything above that, pH will gradually rise. Adding acid reduces both oH and alkalinity. Raising alkalinity raises pH. If you try to lower alkalinity (add acid) and also keep your pH where it belongs, you will be on a merry-go-round. Pool $tores like that.