Tried the liquidator...Stopped using it...

Superdave

Member
Aug 2, 2008
20
Georgetown, TX
Well I'm just now getting around to posting this.

Last year I purchased a Liquidator.. It worked good for a few days then I got the white stuff. And boy did I get it. I got it in the ball meter, in side the box, inside the valves. It was so bad that water flow halted due to either the ball meter, valves, or most likely the pink float valves. Thus, my pump ran dry for a long period of time.

Only good this I can say is that my pump is awesome and did not burn up. So, I looped the inline hose to itself, closed the valve and took it offline.

I read lots of posts on the white stuff. I know my ph was 7.8 and my cholorine was good at the time. Not sure about the other levels.

So, curious as what I should try to get this thing working or sell it.

Dave
 

Superdave

Member
Aug 2, 2008
20
Georgetown, TX
Nope.. I did not upgrade the tubing. Would the tubing keep the whitestuff from getting in the pink float valves? I didnt think it would so I havent done anything except take it offline.

Bleach, I used generic 6% bleach with no additives probably from Walmart. Now I always buy 12% from the pool warehouse.
 

JohnT

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Apr 4, 2007
9,471
SW Indiana
I'm not sure anybody knows exactly what the white stuff is. Calcium? Maybe. Can you post a set of numbers including CH?

I have very low CH and never have problems with the white stuff.
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,962
SouthWest Alabama
I don't know what to tell you. I've used the LQ for a year and while the tubing has turned white inside there is no buildup and everything works great. We don't close the pool so the LQ has lliterally been used an entire year.

Using 12% has been reported to reduce the white stuff so before you decide to get rid of it you might want to give it a try.

Your next best bet is a SWCG or a peristaltic pump and tank system.
 

Superdave

Member
Aug 2, 2008
20
Georgetown, TX
I don't remember my CH numbers. I dont test that very often... I will test it and post. I'm in in TX so we dont close our pool either.

I'm not sure what to do either. I'm trying to get all my levels and at the moment trying to get my CYA at the proper level. The lowness hadn't been a problem over the colder months, but not is an issue. THey say that it takes a while for the CYA to stabilize after adding it, so I am still in the process of getting it to 50.
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
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Jun 22, 2009
22,962
SouthWest Alabama
Maybe we should do a little research and see if we can figure out what condition causes the white stuff to form.
I know I have low CH (160) and John said he has low CH.

It normally takes a week for CYA to show on the test after addition.
 

chem geek

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 28, 2007
12,082
San Rafael, CA USA
JasonLion said:
If I remember correctly, adding borates helped prevent WS.
It did help for some, but not for everyone, though in theory it should help by preventing the pH from rising as much where the concentrated chlorine meets the pool water flowing through the outlet valve and tubing to the pool.
 

flyboy320

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2009
216
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
chem geek said:
It did help for some, but not for everyone, though in theory it should help by preventing the pH from rising as much where the concentrated chlorine meets the pool water flowing through the outlet valve and tubing to the pool.
Does a lower PH help then (my PH usually sits at 7.6)?
 

Pool-creetin

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 22, 2010
181
Michigan
I bet its alk and calcium thats percipitating if adding borates dimishes it. Borates raises alk/ph readings but by not really adding alk. Your alk test kits will be fooled some when testing, You could have low alk and not even know it because borates are scewing the test results.
 

257WbyMag

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Feb 23, 2008
5,061
Denton, TX
Superdave said:
I don't remember my CH numbers. I dont test that very often.
Might be good for your pool in general if you got a CH reading and noted trends in CH and you might need to contend with high calcium down there. It's not uncommon to have pockets in central Texas where very hard water can be found. Lots of limestone in the ground over there.
 

JasonLion

TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
May 7, 2007
37,880
Silver Spring, MD
Pool-creetin said:
Borates raises alk/ph readings but by not really adding alk. Your alk test kits will be fooled some when testing, You could have low alk and not even know it because borates are scewing the test results.
No true. The test kit is not fooled, borates really do raise the total alkalinity. Borates do not raise the carbonate alkalinity, however carbonate alkalinity isn't important. What matters is the total alkalinity, which is being measured correctly with or without borates.

Adding borates can help prevent WS because borates reduce the amount by which the PH rises inside the Liquidator. They just don't always reduce the PH increase enough to actually help.
 

flyboy320

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2009
216
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Just a thought on the LQ and white stuff. I wonder if people experiencing this problem shut their pumps off for part of the day? Thinking maybe with the pump off and water not circulating in the LQ, perhaps the PH level is rising since no water is circulating, and as such, the minerals are precipitating out? With the pump running the water in the LQ is being "refreshed" continuously and perhaps this helps to reduce the build up of WS.... :?:
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
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Jun 22, 2009
22,962
SouthWest Alabama
I hate to ruin your theory because that's some thinking going on there but... Our pump runs three intervals during the day and is shut down 10 hours at night.
 

Pool-creetin

LifeTime Supporter
Mar 22, 2010
181
Michigan
JasonLion said:
Pool-creetin said:
Borates raises alk/ph readings but by not really adding alk. Your alk test kits will be fooled some when testing, You could have low alk and not even know it because borates are scewing the test results.
No true. The test kit is not fooled, borates really do raise the total alkalinity. Borates do not raise the carbonate alkalinity, however carbonate alkalinity isn't important. What matters is the total alkalinity, which is being measured correctly with or without borates.

Adding borates can help prevent WS because borates reduce the amount by which the PH rises inside the Liquidator. They just don't always reduce the PH increase enough to actually help.
Thanks for the clairification, But I was under the impression the alk test designed for carbonate alkalinity.
Sorry I don't mean to sound like i am arguing. I was just under the impression that Carbonate alk was the goal for a true alk test.
Thanks for the info. :)
 

chem geek

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Mar 28, 2007
12,082
San Rafael, CA USA
The Total Alkalinity (TA) test measures what it says -- total, not carbonate. 50 ppm Borates in the water at a pH around 7.5 only contribute around 5 ppm towards this TA so is almost negligible. TA measures the capacity of buffering pH against a drop, not against a rise. Most of the borate capacity is against a rise in pH.

Though it is carbonate alkalinity that is needed to compute the saturation index, if you use The Pool Calculator, it will automatically calculate that for you based on the TA, CYA and Borates entries (as well as pH which affects the CYA and Borates contributions).
 
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