tips, cloudy blue-white


New member
May 12, 2014
callahan, florida
first off, current chem levels -
(using the taylor k-2006 FAS-DPD...if i need to test in a diff way, just say)
FC - 7.4
CC - 0.4
PH - 7.6 cu
TA - 150ish (i tested this a couple times, including using the +1 drop to the thiosulfate due to getting diff readings and my FC being "higher")
CH - 170
CYA - 0 (reading is too low to know, but it would be lower than test threshold)
salt - 3100-3200 range....(strips and SWG instant are in this range....SWG average is like

first off, i know i need to raise my CYA, but how high should i go? To add to this question, should i power off my SWG while adding or leave it running AND how should i add it?

second...the status/recent history of my pool. Back in october of 2016, my pump motor died and life+excuses led me to waiting until the past couple weeks to replace it along with a new SWG cell and new filter.
When i started the system back up it was only a light-med neon green, not dark at all and no black. There was a lot of debris on the bottom due to some inclement weather we were having over the time from when the system died and to now, so ive been netting/sweeping daily to get up everything i can.
I currently do not have an efficient way to vacuum, so its limited to sweeping and netting.

Current status, the pool is a light shade of blue/white....i understand a lot of this is dead algea and that takes time to clear, but its been around a week and a half since ive been working on cleaning it up and it has just been rather it just me being impatient or something up with my chem, or maybe filter?
Each day i can see a little more of, say, the bottom step of the pool or my brush on the bottom of the shallow end, or a little deeper into the deep end...but its been slow.

any tips are appreciated, and if i need to clarify anything i will to the best of my knowledge, thanks.

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Good morning! To answer your questions in order:
1 - With a SWG normally we advise to have a minimum CYA of 70 to protect the FC generated by your SWG. BUT ... since you have had an algae problem only increase the CYA to "30" so that you can adequately perform a TFP "SLAM" (link below). Add the stabilizer as soon as you can and use the poolmath calculator to confirm how much granular stabilizer to add.
2 & 3 - You need to "SLAM". No doubt. Once the stabilizer is in the water, increase FC to "12" and ensure you keep it at 12 with regular bleach until you pass all 3 SLAM criteria. You might as well turn off or lower the percentage on your SWG as they are typically not designed to generate that much FC.

Also, before starting the SLAM, check your pH one more time. We normally advise to have pH at 7.2 for a SLAM, no more than 7.4. You're right on the border.

Finally, to help you save reagents, you can test the FC as follows: Use a 10ml sample, add one heaping scoop of power and mix to pink. Count drops until clear and divide by 2. Example: 20 drops = an FC of 10.

Make sure to follow all of the steps outlined on the SLAM page and you should see things change for the better soon. Once the SLAM is complete and you pass all 3 criteria, then you can increase CYA to the minimum 70 range. Good luck.

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Best way to add stabilizer is to let it soak. We like the white sock-soaking method. See pic examples. Or, you can fill the sock and place it in the skimmer. But never pour it directly into the skimmer.

You won't hurt the SWG by adding the stabilizer (via the sock method), but since the SWG is not designed to produce so much FC at a consistent level for a SLAM, it's just more wear & tear on it which is why we recommend using bleach to maintain your FC level during the SLAM.

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