Time for a new control board?

matumba

New member
Jul 13, 2021
2
Tennessee
First off - awesome site and forum! Thanks for sharing knowledge!

I have a Lifesmart LX200DX 110 volt spa (approximately 6 years) It uses a heat recovery system which (as I understand it) uses pump friction to heat the 200 gallons. It will work for a few days with no problem at 104 with the pump running to heat and I have it set to circulate for 30 mins every 12 hours. It runs much more than that to keep the temp at 104.

It will sometimes continue to run and OH up to about 118 degrees. I'll let it cool down and it will work fine again for a few days. I've checked with a thermometer and the temp is accurate - not sure if should look at replacing the board or the hi temp limit sensor. I'm handy enough to mess stuff up, but not get hurt LOL. I also like to do stuff myself, but don't feel very comfortable troubleshooting the guts of a circuit board. The source of all knowlde shows the board to be a Gecko IN.YJ2 heat recovery system. Any idea where to start and any help is appreciated!

Thanks for the site and sharing info
Matumba
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
28,541
Northern NJ
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35000
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Welcome to TFP.

I would test the hi temp limit sensor with a multimeter in a pot of hot water.

@RDspaguy may be of help.
 
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RDspaguy

In The Industry
Mar 21, 2020
1,382
Cabool, Mo
Maybe...
First off, a so called "friction heater" is bs. Energy (in the form of heat in this case) does not come from nothing. If it does create heat in the 2" of baffles in that stupid fitting, it is making the pump work harder to do it. Of course, making the pump work harder uses more electricity and produces more heat in the motor, which is the true source of heat, in my opinion. Spas with heaters overheat all the time from long filter cycles, and they don't have a "friction heater" to make heat, and the electric heater is thermostat controlled.
So, since the pump is making the heat, any time the pump runs, like during a filter cycle or during use, it is "heating". A control designed for this will turn off the pump when temp is reached, even if it stops a filter cycle, but most controls will not turn off the pump until the temp has triggered an oh error. So maybe it is unavoidable with the current controls. I am not familiar with that system so really couldn't say.
You could also have a relay sticking, causing the pump to run out of control, which will also overheat the tub. This can be intermittent for a while, but will eventually stick for good or burn out.
Or a clogged filter or worn motor bearings will make the pump run hot.
Sensor location can play a part as well, so where are the sensors located?
Post some pics of the equipment area and circuit board (if accessible).
 

matumba

New member
Jul 13, 2021
2
Tennessee
Thanks for the replies! Sorry so late in my response, but out of town for a couple of weeks, so unplugged the tub and have got her back up. I removed the temp sensor and tested it in 105 degree f water. it has 4 wires on the sensor (R,B,W,G) - the Red/White read identical to the Black/Green around 5000 ohm.
IMG_20210905_131457[1].jpg
Sensor is located about 15" below water line about 1' away from filter. The circuit board is a Gecko IN.YJ-2-RE
 

Mdragger88

Bronze Supporter
Jun 1, 2018
2,979
Hernando, Ms
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Intex Krystal Clear
Following…
I also have a lifesmart tub - its 3 yrs old.
It sometimes overheats but it’s due to environmental conditions (its hot outside 100degrees, in the sun, & the temp is set to 104 already). It has never went as high as 118 though. Maybe 110. In which case I turn it down & use the free energy of the sun to maintain temp.