This years Pool opening has gone sideways

[ballyscanlon]

I'm going to throw myself at the mercy of the forum here and ask for some advice. Pool open has always been easy for me, I usually just shocked, vacuumed, brushed and backwashed and in 3-4 days my water was clear (I take detailed notes every year so that been the norm). This year I got screwed up by using some liquid shock from last year that had lost much if not almost all its potency. I went to the local hardware store and bought more and think I ended up getting at least some more bad shock. So by the third time was adding shock I went overboard thinking id have some more weak shock (I guess I didn't).

My sons b'day party is in 2 weeks and I'm stressed out as I don't know whether I just need time or am I meant to be doing something I'm not.

I'll cut and paste my daily notes below, and attach some pictures taken today of the pool and of my FC test before doing drops. i posted a couple of pictures of pool water today (mothers day), plus the FC test before drops. Looks like a strong chlorine reading.

my questions are:
1) I am 4 days in from the 'over shock', my sand filter usually has water clear by now, is this just excess chlorine that I am seeing and I need more time?
2) I have diatomaceous earth, would that help?
3) when I am opening I vacuum, backwash then brush, do I just continue that?
4) This is my first year using a SWG, so i have all that salt to add in those 2 weeks. Im on hold while this water is clearing, could i start balancing it and start adding salt while it still clears?


here are the cliff notes:
5/2/22 opened pool and shocked with 4 bottles of what I now know was weak shock
5/3/22 shocked again with 7 (new) bottles and the remaining 3 weak ones I had
5/4/22 FC is 6, shocked for 3rd time, 16 gallons 12.5%..........FC 40+(stopped adding drops after 80)
************************************************

DAILY NOTES:
5/2/22
water temp 52. heater on (weather not too hot)
pool is green and water smells
4 bottle shock 12.5%
1 bottle agae clarifier
vac backwash brush
3.5 ibs cya (granules not dissolving with water temp). boiling water was only slightly helpful (powder?)

5/3/22
water temp 58
c 2 (yesterdays shock is obviously expired)
cya 50!!! added half needed to get to 30. be careful adding CYA!!!
7 gallons shock (new)
3 gallons shock (last years)
CYA 50 needs FC 20
vac backwash brush

5/4/22
water temp 68
FC 6
added 16 gallons bleach (new from job lot)
FC 40+ (stopped testing as it was still red after 80 drops

5/5/22
water temp 68
vac backwash brush

5/6/22
water temp 68
vac backwash brush

5/7/22
cya 55
fc 40+ (stopped testing as it was still red after 80 drops
water temp 68
vac backwash

5/8/22
temp 65
fc solution is red, did do drop test
pool cloudy

 

[Texas Splash]

So a few things:
1 - With a CYA of 50, you know your SLAM FC level is 20, so just try to maintain that. Not sure how you did the nuclear option and went so high, but 20 is the good mark.
2 - Don't bother testing the pH now. The pH will always be inaccurate when the FC is in SLAM levels over 10.
3 - Stick to the SLAM Process page. It works! Give it time. Yes, brush, vacuum, and backwash as needed.
4 - No DE at this time. DE is only a last-resort addition when most of the SLAM criteria has passed and there is just some residual floaters in the water. It doesn't remove live algae

Stay the course. Brush, maintain, and inspect all areas of the pool for algae. You'll get it.

 

[ballyscanlon]

So a few things:
1 - With a CYA of 50, you know your SLAM FC level is 20, so just try to maintain that. Not sure how you did the nuclear option and went so high, but 20 is the good mark.
2 - Don't bother testing the pH now. The pH will always be inaccurate when the FC is in SLAM levels over 10.
3 - Stick to the SLAM Process page. It works! Give it time. Yes, brush, vacuum, and backwash as needed.
4 - No DE at this time. DE is only a last-resort addition when most of the SLAM criteria has passed and there is just some residual floaters in the water. It doesn't remove live algae

Stay the course. Brush, maintain, and inspect all areas of the pool for algae. You'll get it.

my shock the first 2 times was not full strength. So screwed up when

So a few things:
1 - With a CYA of 50, you know your SLAM FC level is 20, so just try to maintain that. Not sure how you did the nuclear option and went so high, but 20 is the good mark.
2 - Don't bother testing the pH now. The pH will always be inaccurate when the FC is in SLAM levels over 10.
3 - Stick to the SLAM Process page. It works! Give it time. Yes, brush, vacuum, and backwash as needed.
4 - No DE at this time. DE is only a last-resort addition when most of the SLAM criteria has passed and there is just some residual floaters in the water. It doesn't remove live algae

Stay the course. Brush, maintain and inspect all areas of the pool for algae. You'll get it.

Thanks. My sand filter (and pool) was completed 2018. Could my sand need replacement? It worked fine until now, and I added 4 bags over the winter to replace some loss from backwash over the years. As I mentioned, I usually get clean water after 4 days, and I am past that now. Is my 'over shock' the reason why my pool is still so cloudy? My filter pressure isn't varying anymore.

 

[Texas Splash]

As long as you haven't added floc or clarifiers to the water that may have gotten to the sand, the sans should be fine. But if you never did a sand deep clean that might help. But even in what should seem predictable, some seasons a pool owner can get thrown a twist. This might be yours, and 4 days simply isn't enough time for the FC level (SLAM) to do its job. In the meantime, continue with the SLAM and be sure to not overlook any part of the SLAM Process. Attention to detail with brushing and inspecting any possible hiding area for algae might be key.

 

[ballyscanlon]

As long as you haven't added floc or clarifiers to the water that may have gotten to the sand, the sans should be fine. But if you never did a sand deep clean that might help. But even in what should seem predictable, some seasons a pool owner can get thrown a twist. This might be yours, and 4 days simply isn't enough time for the FC level (SLAM) to do its job. In the meantime, continue with the SLAM and be sure to not overlook any part of the SLAM Process. Attention to detail with brushing and inspecting any possible hiding area for algae might be key.

thank you. i do feel like i've lost my confidence.

 

[Mdragger88]

Do you remove your filter pressure gauge in the winter? If not it could be bad & time to pick up a new one. A tale tell sign is if it doesn’t drop to zero when its off. Tftestkits has good glycerin filled ones.

 

[Mdragger88]

Also what is algae clarifier?
Don’t add anymore of that. You may need to deep clean your sand before long.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ballyscanlon]

Also what is algae clarifier?
Don’t add anymore of that. You may need to deep clean your sand before long.

Deep Cleaning a Sand Filter

This post will walk you through the anatomy of a sand filter, and then provide a video at the end for how to deep clean your sand filter. The filter used in the photos and videos is a Hayward S180T top mount sand filter. The images are of a similar filter. Obviously not all filters are...

www.troublefreepool.com

'algae clarifier' is my abreviation for algecide clarifier i had. I replaced my sand in filter yesterday. 12 hours later, still no change in clearing up cloudiness. I feel whatever is in the water now is just too small for my sand filter. I'm wondering how long I wait before I pump and replace the water at this stage. My past years notes show clear water in 4 days with previous openings. I had added JACKS MAGIC MAGENTA last year before closing to try help with a scale issue. It ultimately wasn't successful and I closed the pool shortly after. i was in daily conversation with one of their techs during the process and spoke to him again this morning to ask if his product could be giving me an issue. He said no, not after a while winter. Did suggest one of the other clarifier products his company uses. My gut is telling me the sand filter isn't really clearing. The backwash (daily) are not showing much coming out.

 

[ballyscanlon]

As long as you haven't added floc or clarifiers to the water that may have gotten to the sand, the sans should be fine. But if you never did a sand deep clean that might help. But even in what should seem predictable, some seasons a pool owner can get thrown a twist. This might be yours, and 4 days simply isn't enough time for the FC level (SLAM) to do its job. In the meantime, continue with the SLAM and be sure to not overlook any part of the SLAM Process. Attention to detail with brushing and inspecting any possible hiding area for algae might be key.

went to pool store for testing. here are the results:

FC 2.34
TC 10.34
PH 8.7
TA 105
CH 148
CYA 35
Iron 0
Copper 0.2
Phosphates 579
TDS 800

my CYA test at home showed 45 (chemicals were new this year)

anything on that list a read flag?

ill continue to SLAM

pictures of pool today and test results

 

[Mdragger88]

We can’t really give much advice based on pool store results.
But your cya of 45 counts as 50 ppm. Always round up as it is not a logarithmic scale. So your SLAM Process target 🎯 is 20ppm.
The more frequently you test & replenish slam level the faster things will go.
This is not a once daily addition- multiple times per day is best. Every hour your fc is below slam level for your cya algae proliferates.

Note* Your large cc’s is either a whole lot of organics or a false reading.
Have you used MPS (Non chlorine shock)?
That can show up as cc’s if a special interference reagent isn’t used.

You are pushing the limit for copper- do u have issues with staining?
So No more copper containing products- the only way to remove copper is to replace the water.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ballyscanlon]

We can’t really give much advice based on pool store results.
But your cya of 45 counts as 50 ppm. Always round up as it is not a logarithmic scale. So your SLAM Process target 🎯 is 20ppm.
The more frequently you test & replenish slam level the faster things will go.
This is not a once daily addition- multiple times per day is best. Every hour your fc is below slam level for your cya algae proliferates.

Note* Your large cc’s is either a whole lot of organics or a false reading.
Have you used MPS (Non chlorine shock)?
That can show up as cc’s if a special interference reagent isn’t used.

You are pushing the limit for copper- do u have issues with staining?
So No more copper containing products- the only way to remove copper is to replace the water.

Copper in Pool Water - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Brought FC to 18 (with pool math) at 1pm yesterday. Tested again at 8pm, FC was 7.5. added 3 gallons shock to FC 18. Tested at 10pm and got FC 14.5. Tested this morning at 6:30am, FC was 15. so no drop overnight. added 1.5 gallons shock now per your FC20 target, will watch through day now. can you have readings like I have and still have very cloudy pool? My filter seems to be doing nothing. Vacuum, backwash and brushing every day. I have an issue with scaling, not staining. I'll look for copper in products from now on, but I will prb replace pool water soon, if slam continues and cloudiness also contiues.

 

[PoolStored]

I feel your pain. My slam went on for days, very frustrating.

Sand filters just take the longest to clear a SLAM.

 

[ballyscanlon]

I feel your pain. My slam went on for days, very frustrating.

Sand filters just take the longest to clear a SLAM.

how long was it for you? I've never had an opening this long, and wonder if my water is just F'ed up and needs replacing at this stage. The sand filter is just not clearing at this stage.

 

[wireform]

If your CYA is 50 you're not at slam level till you achieve 20

 

[Mdragger88]

The cloudiness continues because the live algae that remains continues to be killed off. Once all the algae is dead - no more dead algae can be produced & the pool will begin to clear as the filter will be able to keep up more easily.
This is why you need to remain at slam level for your cya until the pool is crystal clear AND the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Is passed.
Is your filter pressure rising?

 

[thesubmitter]

Similar situation myself, if my pool blue but cloudy, its the dead algae floating around.
1. I normally add floc,
2. whirlpool (not filter) for a few hours,
3. let the pool settle for a day or so
4. Very gently vacuum to waste all the flocced dust on the floor.
5. refill

The other related alternative is used a pantyhose around my skimmer basket to catch the dead algae. I have 0 confidence that sand filters catch dead algae.

 

[Mdragger88]

Similar situation myself, if my pool blue but cloudy, its the dead algae floating around.
1. I normally add floc,
2. whirlpool (not filter) for a few hours,
3. let the pool settle for a day or so
4. Very gently vacuum to waste all the flocced dust on the floor.
5. refill

The other related alternative is used a pantyhose around my skimmer basket to catch the dead algae. I have 0 confidence that sand filters catch dead algae.

Flocculant is not recommended & often causes more problems than it solves- the SLAM Process done to completion will ensure algae is eradicated.

Flocculant - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ballyscanlon]

The cloudiness continues because the live algae that remains continues to be killed off. Once all the algae is dead - no more dead algae can be produced & the pool will begin to clear as the filter will be able to keep up more easily.
This is why you need to remain at slam level for your cya until the pool is crystal clear AND the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Is passed.
Is your filter pressure rising?

Filter pressure not rising. Getting very little out of backwash (meaning, not seeing much discolored water before it turns normal again).

 

[Mdragger88]

Filter pressure not rising. Getting very little out of backwash (meaning, not seeing much discolored water before it turns normal again).

Have u confirmed that your gauge is functioning properly? Does it drop to zero when the pump is off? They go bad especially if left in place over the winter but are cheap to replace if so. My original one only lived 1 season.

How does the pool look now ? Is it blue or green?
Pics are good 😊 Taking one from the same spot every day with a pole or something in the water can help you see the progress in clarity since it’s not a dramatic change at this stage.
How has fc been holding?
Have you been able to maintain 20 ppm regularly (multiple times a day)?
Have u checked & scrubbed all the nooks & crannies- light niches, ladders, drain covers, skimmer throats/weirs, water features etc to ensure there’s nothing hiding?
When it gets to where it’s holding fc for longer & you have low overnight fc loss you can then proceed with adding a small amount of DE but you must be sure u have a functioning gauge & be prepared to babysit it.

Add DE to a Sand Filter

A clean pool filter will increase the efficiency of your pool! ... your filter are to backwash it, clean the manifolds and grids, and add new DE.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Mdragger88]

also - are u logging results & additions w/ PoolMath ? If so you can toggle on “Sharing” in the settings & we can see them. This is immensely helpful for those trying to give accurate advice😊