Third Season Pool Owner, Looking For A TFP!

Apr 30, 2017
22
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hello! This is my second full season with a pool, the first summer our pool wasn't finished until July of 2015. This site has been my God send so far, thanks to everyone who contributes!

Pool opening last season was amazing! I had very clear water when pulling off the safety cover, brushed everything down and vacuumed to waste. We were swimming as soon as the heater warmed it up enough. I unknowingly trusted the strips with the different pads. I found this site after my pool flooded with silt due to grass not being grown in and a torrential downpour, and got it all cleared up, while not relying on a TF-100 kit (naive, yes). Our first two seasons were amazing, with the only problem being that one flood.

This season was quite different. We had a very mild winter for this area (Cincinnati), and the water was cloudy, with the brushing taking some effort to clean the walls (still not perfect yet). The company who installed the pool do the closing and opening for me, as they guarantee them and will take responsibility should any mishaps occur, they have a "kit", no idea what it is, but I trusted them as our first two seasons were great. They put in 2 gallons of shock as well this opening (approx 2-3 weeks ago). This seasons opening obviously not going as well. Plus, we had another rain last week that caused my pool to flood (2 times in 3 seasons) with silt due to an underground electric feed being ran a week ago. I am having a company that specializes in yards holding water and with large amounts of runoff come out to assess our problem. We had a curtain french drain, another french drain lower than the curtain,plus a footer drain around the entire pool, but they obviously weren't enough for the great flood of 2017. I don't want to waste money and throw a bunch of stuff at it, since I have no idea what I'm doing, so I finally got my TF-100 kit in the mail and did the onslaught of tests, here's was I got.

pH - 7.8
FC - 1
CC - 0
CH - 250
TA - 130
CYA < 20 (never even got close to the black dot disappearing!)
Salt 3200ppm per the Hayward screen. The strip I used said 1100ppm, but I just put in six 40lb bags to raise it from 1800ppm, so temp maybe? I didn't warm that water like I did for the other tests.

Pool temp - 61 degrees, but I had the water sample in my home 2 hours prior to testing (except salt test strip).

I know I need to get my CYA way up, FC up, and TA down, pH slightly down, but where do I start first? I've read that some changes to one can affect another, so I really don't want to mess things up any more than they already are. We had some more heavy rain for a couple days and it seemed to knock down the silt which I vacuumed to waste today, then I backwashed a ton of dirt out of my sand filter from the flood a week ago. I can actually see the liner at the bottom of the pool about half way down to the deep end, and that is a first since opening!

Thanks in advance for any tips!
 
Welcome to TFP :)

I would use muratic acid to bring the PH down to 7.2.
Add enough CYA to get to about 30ppm via the sock method
Proceed to SLAM FC levels with liquid chlorine and follow directions for the SLAM process in pool school.
 
^^ I agree with Aimee. Increase the CYA, but don't increase it to your normal recommended SWG level of 70, only to what Aimee said (30) so you can do that SLAM (FC of 12). After you pass the SLAM, then you can think about increasing the CYA in preparation for SWG (FC) production.

Something to keep I mind though .... you're right on the edge of proper water temp for SWG use anyways (60 I believe right?). So even though you'll be using bleach for the SLAM, you might consider treating your pool as a non-SWG pool for a little longer and continue using regular bleach until you know for sure the water temp is increasing a little more. That way your SWG will work like it's supposed to. Just something to consider. Oh, and it's great to have you with us at TFP. :)
 
Thanks for the replies! I went ahead and turned on my heater to bump the temp up to 70 so the temp wouldn't be a lingering factor during daily SLAM testing. Our weather is going to be pretty chilly for a few days. Prior to me posting, and rain we had the last couple days, the temp had crept up to 68 without running my heat pump, and now its just 62.

I have some Dry Acid on hand, and I just picked up some stabilizer from the store. I've already added half the calculator said to add to get me from 0-30, since I never really got a solid reading. Just have to add the acid tonight and check levels tomorrow to see how pH and CYA are doing!
 
I suggest you Please read "The "ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry" up in Pool School. That'll help explain some of the above and get you started.

Then, read the SLAM article which is the process you will use to get your pool clear.

Ask lot's of questions.....we'll all help.
 
Thanks duraleigh. I've read a lot in the Pool School, unfortunately, my brain cannot retain all the info at once, haha! The SLAM process seems pretty straight forward, I was originally worried about adding chemicals and causing something else to be out of whack. Now comes the fun of converting ounces to pounds, then pounds to cups, etc, so I know I'm getting things right, lol.

Thanks to everyone for the help so far!
 

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The only thing I forgot to mention was I already had the liquid conditioner and started adding before I saw any replies. I've read up on the "sock" method and am hoping I didn't end up causing more harm than good. I only added half of the suggested amount to get from 0-70 CYA, so hopefully today's tests will be in my favor!

Good news is I read the post on the places to find cheap bleach, and landed 10% @ $8 a case. I'm stupid busy with tons of stuff going on, so I'm working on getting my pH and CYA set, along with a lull in life, to start the SLAM process. Hopefully 20 gallons will be enough as my pool has been clearing itself the past few days.

I guess I need to post a picture of my current situation!

IMG_0713[1].jpg
IMG_0715[1].jpg
 
Ok, test results from 10 min ago:

FC - 1.5 (yesterday's test was at 4pm, so I suppose this isn't really a change)
CC - 0.5
pH - 7.2
CYA - 20-25

I did the CYA test a couple times, outside, with the sun at my back by transferring the water back and forth, making sure it was shaken. It seems to fall between 20-25 range each time, so should I really add any more liquid conditioner? I'm afraid of adding too much and then having to really use tons of bleach for my SLAM this coming week. Also, have I given my stabilizer enough time to disperse throughout the pool? The stabilizer was put in last night at about 8pm.

Thanks!
 
Liquid conditioner raises CYA very quickly - in just a few hours. Once dissolved, the granular should register most of what it will do within 24 hrs. So looking at what you've added so far, I suspect the CYA is almost as high as it's doing to get. You can use the Poolmath calculator to add only enough to raise CYA by about another 10ppm to be safe. Even if you over-shoot to 40, it's not bad at all. Just a little higher FC level for the SLAM. Watch the FC and do your best to elevate it consistently. We know life gets in the way, but whenever it drops below 2-3, algae is knocking on the door and not going away. Let us know if you have any questions when you start your SLAM. Good luck!
 
Thanks, Texas. This will be my first time performing a true SLAM. I'll be able to check it throughout the morning, head to work at 2pm, then check it around midnight before I go to bed. I'll add the remaining conditioner per the calculator when I get home tonight, and hopefully start the SLAM in the morning.

Thanks to everyone again for the tips!
 
Started my SLAM this morning at 9am. Test results from 10:30 after brushing and letting sit for an hour and a half:

FC - 12
CC - 0.5
CYA - 30
CH - 200-250 (hard for me to tell when it went from violet to a blue)
TA - 100

I think I may have bought too much chlorine! I have 16 gallons of 10% that I bought after reading some other threads and how some people went through 20 gallons with a smaller pool. How long before the chlorine that I have starts to deteriorate?

Thanks!
 
If you keep the chlorine in a cool/dry place away from direct sunlight, you should be able to use any remaining bleach after the SLAM during the course of your normal/daily FC treatments.

Your SLAM numbers look perfect! :goodjob: Now just maintain the FC level as best as you can and make sure to brush the pool often. Leave no stone unturned when it comes to inspecting algae hiding places such as behind lights, in ladder rungs, under steps, etc. Good luck!
 
So its safe to disassemble my pool light while submerged huh? I really, really hate electricity, been shocked one too many times, lol. Common sense tells me as long as my switch is off, I won't get zapped, haha! I planned on taking the ladder out of the deep end to make sure I hit the liner behind the steps really well.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
If you have one of the typical (large) pool lights, you should be able to take it out. It's probably held in place by a retaining ring or something similar. You would be surprised what can live behind the light in the niche. But yes, make sure you shut-of power at the breaker for that light, not only for your own safety, but if you leave the light out for a while you don't want anyone to turn it on outside the water which could cause it to burnout from excessive heat. The pool water serves to keep it cool. :)
 

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