thinking of emptying pool

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proavia said:
Reference the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart

You stated you added enough stabilizer get CYA to 50. Once the CYA is added, just consider it in there and dose accordingly. You need to add bleach to dose FC to a target of 6-8 -- and never let it fall below 4. Remember, you're pool is a NON - SWG pool until AFTER your salt level is correct and the SWG is functioning correctly.

You also need to keep the pH in check - letting it get above 7.8 is bad.

Please provide a current
FC
CC
pH
TA

It's all about the test results... stay on top if it or you will be working double time to correct it.
:testresults::testkit::testresults::testkit:

And just to keep everyone happy, how about pics of all your hard work.... pool, pool equipment -- and a pic of the brick just for Dirk!!
:nopic:
Click to expand...

Thank you Gene. :) I will make sure to keep the levels good, at least as much as I can with my old possibly inaccurate kit. Today's my busiest day of the week so I'll get pics ASAP, but testing first! :)
 
I pump it down by back washing.

It's cool decking and coping. It floods because the moron that did the cool decking when the pool was originally built in the 80's did not slope the concrete correctly and it diverts a lot of the water running off the roof into the pool.
 
It hasn't hit 3 years before I've had my pool but that's about the mark that I plan on starting to listening better. I should've rented pump from Home Depot. I should've bought the kit from TFTest kits every year when I get the email for the discount. Instead I've bought what I thought I needed at the time through amazon. Then yesterday I bought the salt test and pH test through amazon since I have prime and it seemed faster than TFT (and cheaper). In the end now that i ordered the rest of the kit it's going to take longer for some of the regeants to get here and shorter from some. I was eager to get pH first and then learned I needed salt ASAP to make life easier then it went from there. I'll be questioned about the validity of the reagents on this site perhaps, we'll see. Next year it won't be like this!

ArizonaRob, no mushroom cloud but I now lost sleep last night. All I could think about at 4am was everything to do with a clean-out. The more I think about how they dug up the sewer lines in front of my house, the more I remember how deep that was and the price of the excavation for the pool. I'm not thinking it'll be $3k for a clean out and tearing up the landscape. I read on the city's website that dumping water in the street can be a $2500 fine and 6 mths jail time and more! Maybe I'll call the city to see what their standards are for dumping water in the street but standards change so i'll also be calling around to see how much it would cost me to get a real clean out in front of the house (not the one that goes into my house through the backyard kitchen wall). Maybe I won't have to drain again for a long time if I get soft water system but I'm now a bit traumatized after this experience and want to make sure everything's all set when it's time to drain again. I can't imagine overdoing it with chemicals as I never have before but anything could happen to a pool I suppose and require a drain, especially with kids, then I'd have to wait for a permit or risk jail time?!
 
Waiting on a full set of current test results....... including CYA

Your best bet might be to just suck it up and order a full refill kit for your TF100 from TFTestkits. It will only take a few days to receive it. You really should toss any reagents that do NOT have an espiration dates (those are over 2 years old already) and any others you may have that are past there expiration dates.

Take control of your pool - it will save you time and money in the long run.
 
Pool School - Recommended Levels I'm curious why on this chart is says target FC is 3-5 but target CYA is 70-80. That does not match the other chart.

just tested:
FC=6
CC=0
pH=7.8
TA=120

so i added 51 oz acid to bring pH down to 7.2 to bring TA down, turned on bubbler and will check again tonight or tomorrow. I'll throw in 37 oz of bleach to get FC up to 8 since I'll be gone all day. pics hopefully tonight
 
That chart has a range of CYA values that are "good' - and so there is a range of FC values that are "good". It's actually kind of confusing and I may talk to staff about updating it.

That said, you need to use this chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
It will give you the correct FC to maintain for your CYA level without any ranges. Dose for the top end of "target" every day, and make sure the pool never drops below the minimum.
 
Is the stabilizer you added fully dissolved yet? If so, how long has it been dissolved?

Use this chart for FC - Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Until your SWG is fully functional, you are operating a Non- SWCG pool. Dose according to the non-SWG part of the chart.

Have you added salt yet? If so, is it fully dissolved and for how long has it been fully dissolved?

Did you get the SWG cell tested? What were the results of that testing?

What were the results of the CH test?

What is your water temperature?
 
Phillbo said:
I pump it down by back washing.

It's cool decking and coping. It floods because the moron that did the cool decking when the pool was originally built in the 80's did not slope the concrete correctly and it diverts a lot of the water running off the roof into the pool.
Click to expand...

that makes sense

- - - Updated - - -

triptyx said:
That chart has a range of CYA values that are "good' - and so there is a range of FC values that are "good". It's actually kind of confusing and I may talk to staff about updating it.

That said, you need to use this chart: Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
It will give you the correct FC to maintain for your CYA level without any ranges. Dose for the top end of "target" every day, and make sure the pool never drops below the minimum.
Click to expand...

kindof makes sense. thx for explanation
 
proavia said:
Is the stabilizer you added fully dissolved yet? If so, how long has it been dissolved?

Use this chart for FC - Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart
Until your SWG is fully functional, you are operating a Non- SWCG pool. Dose according to the non-SWG part of the chart.

Have you added salt yet? If so, is it fully dissolved and for how long has it been fully dissolved?

Did you get the SWG cell tested? What were the results of that testing?

What were the results of the CH test?

What is your water temperature?
Click to expand...

i added one 40 lb bag of salt-quick dissolve salt-supposed to dissolve in 3 min. Thursday. i poured it in the pool and swept it in so I think it's dissolved. The CYA was fully dissolved in the skimmer with the stocking method- i made sure to squoosh it with my hand until dissolved over a matter of a couple of hrs.

got my new pH kit but still waiting for salt to arrive.

i never got the salt cell tested as i wanted to save a trip to leslies and first see if it was working by it not saying "low salt." panel said "0 salt" at one time but now it just says "very low salt."

pool 69 degrees.
pH 7.8 on new kit 8.2 on old kit that came with the pool 3 yrs ago. tossing the old kit
FC- 4.5 old kit (r-0870 expires 5-18 and r-0871 expires 9-18). k-100 gave a clear reading of 5-10FC.

My idea is to add 51 oz acid to lower pH to 7.2. bubbler is on all the time for this process to get it moving sooner than later.
i'm going to go with the 4.5 # for FC to play it safe and add
I didn't bother with TA today as i can't imagine it would change that quickly plus I am waiting for new regeants for TA still anyway.
i'll retest salt and cya later when i have more time. pics later when more time.
 

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Good job, wait on the salt test kit for more salt, adding salt is easy, adding bleach is easy, drain water for high salt is not easy.

K-1000 is the oto/pH tester right? Just use the oto(clorine) part of it for troubleshooting your fas-dpd test or if you want a quick test for yes/no clorine as after 2 fc it really isn't worth much. The fas-dpd is the hero of the test kit, use it and trust it!
 
Just got done draining and filling my pool 10500 gallon pool 5 bags of salt got me the 2600 parts per million can I leave it there and will the salt water generator work on that because over the summer I'm not here in Yuma Az. ànd I usually gain salt content even though guy at Leslie says that doesn't happen. Any thoughts appreciated TRAPPERMAN
 
Trappshack said:
Just got done draining and filling my pool 10500 gallon pool 5 bags of salt got me the 2600 parts per million can I leave it there and will the salt water generator work on that because over the summer I'm not here in Yuma Az. ànd I usually gain salt content even though guy at Leslie says that doesn't happen. Any thoughts appreciated TRAPPERMAN
Click to expand...

so glad u posted. that's good to know that 5 bags got your salt #s that high! I would think there's salt in the tap water and that's how you'd gain salt? that's a good thing to keep in mind! do u know how much salt is coming out of your tap water?

- - - Updated - - -

cfherrman said:
Good job, wait on the salt test kit for more salt, adding salt is easy, adding bleach is easy, drain water for high salt is not easy.

K-1000 is the oto/pH tester right? Just use the oto(clorine) part of it for troubleshooting your fas-dpd test or if you want a quick test for yes/no clorine as after 2 fc it really isn't worth much. The fas-dpd is the hero of the test kit, use it and trust it!
Click to expand...

that's interesting that after 2fc the clorine test for the k-1000 isn't useful. it's so super easy so it's tempting to use it since life seems so busy so much of the time. the kit contains r-0600 orthotolidine for chlorine and r-0014 ph indication solution (phenol red). on the box it says "safety test residential pool and spa test kid (OT). tests for total chlorine, bromine, and pH.
 
is your salt cell working with that amount of salt? your pool is smaller than mine and mine says 2700-3400 (I think-i'm not looking at the panel). I dont see where on pool math it shows how much salt u need for a certain size pool so i've been going off of what the pb told me. I'm sure someone here will answer but I'd hold off and not add more until someone here who knows tells u since if u add too much you have to empty part of your pool to get the salt out. i'd think u're at the higher end. My idea is stay low since tap water will add salt and i don't want to empty my pool. someone here said they like to keep #s high so they don't have chance of their salt cell not working if they go under. the way my salt cell works if it it's plugged with calcium it says "low salt" or "extremely low salt." I'd have to read the manual but I believe that when it's "extremely low salt" salt cell doesn't work. I'm curious if it's just low salt in the pool if it's still producing a small amount of chlorine. I bet it does, just not enough. do u have a panel? does it say how much salt u have in there? r u using a test kit to measure your own water?
 
outdoorsgal said:
is your salt cell working with that amount of salt? your pool is smaller than mine and mine says 2700-3400 (I think-i'm not looking at the panel). I dont see where on pool math it shows how much salt u need for a certain size pool so i've been going off of what the pb told me. I'm sure someone here will answer but I'd hold off and not add more until someone here who knows tells u since if u add too much you have to empty part of your pool to get the salt out. i'd think u're at the higher end. My idea is stay low since tap water will add salt and i don't want to empty my pool. someone here said they like to keep #s high so they don't have chance of their salt cell not working if they go under. the way my salt cell works if it it's plugged with calcium it says "low salt" or "extremely low salt." I'd have to read the manual but I believe that when it's "extremely low salt" salt cell doesn't work. I'm curious if it's just low salt in the pool if it's still producing a small amount of chlorine. I bet it does, just not enough. do u have a panel? does it say how much salt u have in there? r u using a test kit to measure your own water?
Click to expand...
According to my saltwater generator I have enough salt cuz the light is on and it's a green for go so I started up my swg.
 
salt kit came in. it's 95 degrees today and sat in mailbox for a few hrs. dates are 5-19 and 2-20. i measured 2.5 xs (spilt it once but it was well up there in #s). Got brick red at 17. salmonish at 15. i'm going with 17 cuz that was the darkest color. 2400 and i only added one 40 lb bag! I'd have to read back as the date I added salt wasn't clear but I think I had 2000 before adding a 40 lb bag so that would mean one bag = 400 ppms if my measuring was good. Looking back, I'm wondering if I initially took the reading when it immediately turned salmon pink (a dramatic difference from the light pink) but it got even darker with 2 more drops which would've put me pretty close to what I have now. Could that much salt have been in 7 inches of water?

nonetheless, According to poolmath i need to add 36 lb. I'll wait until I'm guided here since I can't empty my pool until i get a clean-out. thx!!
 
How about an updated complete set of test results from your TF-100 - and by that I mean all new results, not those from a few days ago. Include the water temp also.

Have you been keeping on top of bleach dosing? what FC numbers are you targeting?

FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Temp

With those in hand, we can better advise on additional steps.
 

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