The cover is off, last year was my first year

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I would continue with that so long as the timing is doable regarding your availability to backwash.
 
Better, but still cloudy. I've been keeping chlorine at 12 and running the pump 24/7 (at 3450) and brushing sides and bottom. Last needed backwash was 3 days ago. I added DE after backwash and pressure has only gone up 3 so I haven't backwashed again.

I haven't tested for anything else. Any advice appreciated.
 
So sorry for falling off. I headed off the grid for a while and didn’t alert anyone to check in. What is your current status? Still cloudy or have you cleared up?
 
Glad you're okay.

Pool is clear now .... last Saturday my friend tricked me in to a lunch out while her husband flocked the pool. He came back Sunday and vacuumed to waste.
I'll post today's test results later.

I read many more posts and decided in addition to using the wrong CYA/FC chart (didn't realize there was a SLAM chart), I believe I was wrong to run my pump at 3450. I read that slower speeds clean better. I think more attention to variable pump speeds needs to be addressed. Especially since they (variable speed pumps) will soon be the only pumps available once all single and 2 speed pumps are sold out**(with exceptions). As an example, adding 1/4 cup DE at 3450 raises my gauge 1. At 2000 it takes 1 3/4 cups to raise 1. I'm not an engineer, or writer for that matter, and hope my example makes sense. The same can be said about backwashing when gauge increases 25% .... it can run much much longer to increse 25% when run at lower speeds. Please share your opinions ....

**Starting July 19th, 2021 the Department of Energy new regulation will go into effect making it illegal to operate most single speed pool pumps due to the efficiency and energy consumption associated with single speed motors and pumps.
 
I'm glad that you have a clear pool now. Yes, the SLAM level we found earlier was very important. Pump speed is not something I think of first but it would be true that with a sand filter specifically, a slower speed would allow a little better filtration. Tough to say how much. Use of floc is not a recommendation we put out here. But that doesn't mean that it can't be effective. There is more than one way to get the job done. However, the reason we don't espouse the floc approach is because there are too many ways for it to go wrong, or a person's setup may not even allow it's use (as mine doesn't with no vac to waste option). Then as happens so often, the floc gets in the sand filter and gums it up badly causing extra work.

Yes all pumps will go to 2-speed minimum soon.
 
8pm last night the FC was 5

Just testing now:
FC 3 ( I've been checking and adding liquid chlorine each evening. Should I add LC during the day too? )
pH 7.5 ( Should I raise? )
TA 90 ( Should I lower? )
CH 150 ( I did add about 25 lbs. of calcium chloride Monday, even though its a vinyl liner. What's my CH goal? )
CYA 30 ( It was a bit over halfway between 20 and 30 .... so I've just put some stabilizer in a sock to raise a bit. What's my CYA goal? )
TA 90

I stopped using DE. The pool is 76 degrees.
I run the pump at 3000 for 2 hours in the evening when I add LC. I let it run the rest of the time at 1600.

Please answer the 5 questions and share any advice ....
Thank you!
 
Debra Joan said:
Just testing now:
FC 3 ( I've been checking and adding liquid chlorine each evening. Should I add LC during the day too? )
Click to expand...
If you're done with the SLAM Process, once per day is fine. You just want to raise the level high enough in the evening that you finish the day above the minimum specified on the FC/CYA Levels for your CYA level. This time of year, a daily 4ppm loss is not uncommon.

Debra Joan said:
pH 7.5 ( Should I raise? )
TA 90 ( Should I lower? )
Click to expand...
No and No. Any pH between 7-8 is fine. TA isn't something you need to chase a specific number for. If your TA is high, your pH will tend to naturally rise faster. When your pH rises to 8, you'll add muratic acid to bring it down. That will also lower TA some. Over time, the TA and pH levels will reach a type of equilibrium and you won't need to lower as frequently.

With plaster pools, these values also impact CSI which is a consideration, but for a vinyl pool it's not important.

Debra Joan said:
CH 150 ( I did add about 25 lbs. of calcium chloride Monday, even though its a vinyl liner. What's my CH goal? )
Click to expand...
For a vinyl pool, no minimum level is needed. Too high can cause problems, but too low cannot. It's fine where it is.

Debra Joan said:
CYA 30 ( It was a bit over halfway between 20 and 30 .... so I've just put some stabilizer in a sock to raise a bit. What's my CYA goal? )
Click to expand...
30-40. And we always round up, so you were at 30 prior to adding. Assume the amount you just added is in the water now, and measure again in a few days to confirm the level. Make sure to follow the FC/CYA Levels for your new CYA level.
 
If you find it helpful, you can use the PoolMath app and link your testing logs to the forum. A link will show below your name and we can see it without you typing them. You’d just reference them when asking a question. You have to subscribe to save logs but I do find the history very valuable to me.
 
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I'm back from a 10 day trip visiting family I haven't seen in person since before the pandemic.
Before I left I raised Chlorine to 12 and not having anyone to take care of the pool I shut off the pump.
I returned Monday afternoon to a pool with leaves and branches but mostly clear water, and with all the rain it had gone up about 3 inches.
I scooped out everything and tested:
Chlorine 0
pH 7.6
TA 90
CH vinyl liner so na
CYA under 20
I added stabilizer and started SLAM Monday night using 2 gallons lq.
I'm waiting for CYA to show an increase but just can't keep enough liquid chlorine in the pool. I used 2 gallons this morning still showing 0.
Last night (Wednesday) after SLAMing for 48 hours I vacuumed dead stuff to waste. I'm seeing a tiny bit of dead algae on the bottom this afternoon.
I keep sweeping the bottom and sides.
Last year I had too high CYA and had to drain the pool several times to get it down.
Is the chlorine being eaten up because too low CYA?
The water is slightly cloudy but I can easily see the bottom in the deep end.

I was hoping I could do this myself but need HELP!
 
Welcome home. Can you provide a current set of test results for us to go on?

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA

How much CYA did you add on Monday?

Are you home during the day or just morning/evenings to add FC?

You’ll want to buy a good quantity of liquid chlorine so that you can proceed through the SLAM and not have an interrupted supply.

Do you have a good amount of testing reagents for testing FC? You’ll be testing very frequently and at higher FC levels so you’ll use a lot of drops. If not, order more now of the powder and drops.

I’ll glad you were able to see your family, and now it’s time for you to see crystal clear water. You can do it.
 
Thank you for the quick reply and good thoughts ... great to physically be with family. I drove a total of 2756 miles!!

I added 28 oz. of stabilizer in a sock in front of return.
I'm able to add chemicals almost any time.
I restocked chemicals a few weeks ago and have plenty on hand.
I've been using Pool Essentials 10%, that I store in temp. controlled basement, date coded 21 096 10:54.
I added 1 gallon of lq about 20 minutes ago so I'll test a bit later.
 
Just tested:
FC 0
CC
pH 7.2
TA 80
CH 125
CYA 0

I repeated the CYA test several times, pouring the water back in to the mixing bottle and back in to the CYA tube. The sun isn't "bright" yet so I tried indoors too. I then poured everything out and started over ... still filled the tube and could see faded gray dot.

The water temperature is 76. I'm running the pool 24/7 at 2900.
 
I'm a little late to this so take this with a grain of salt. Will your pool hold FC at all? I.E. add your LC, let it mix for say 15 min or so, test, wait another 15 min or so and test again. Did you measure any FC? If your FC disappears immediately than you have ammonia. If this is the case you will need to continue to add LC until you see the level hold. Don't add any more CYA since the bacteria that creates the ammonia feeds on the CYA. You have to neutralize the ammonia with lots of LC first.

If your pool holds FC than the CYA you added just hasn't been there long enough to show up on the test. It can take a couple of days.
 
Your goal for CYA should be 30-40 during a SLAM
DorsalSpine said:
I'm a little late to this so take this with a grain of salt. Will your pool hold FC at all? I.E. add your LC, let it mix for say 15 min or so, test, wait another 15 min or so and test again. Did you measure any FC? If your FC disappears immediately than you have ammonia. If this is the case you will need to continue to add LC until you see the level hold. Don't add any more CYA since the bacteria that creates the ammonia feeds on the CYA. You have to neutralize the ammonia with lots of LC first.

If your pool holds FC than the CYA you added just hasn't been there long enough to show up on the test. It can take a couple of days.
Click to expand...
Yes, good to check the result 15-30 minutes after adding FC to make sure it's rising. However, maintaining FC wasn't a problem a month ago before vacation so I don't suspect ammonia, but FC disappearing quickly can't be denied. Likely just the algae which presented due to vacation "downtime" for the pool.

On the CYA, the reading was 30 in May, then CYA was added. So I suspect it is there and it's not showing yet (not so likely) or it's a reading issue with the test. The dot is still visible a little when the number should be read. The dot will not fully disappear at the final "finish point". Use 30 to determine your SLAM level since you had that before then you added CYA.

And get and keep FC up to SLAM level. It could require additions every hour at first.
 
I slowly poured 153 oz. in the pool, not measuring exactly but most went in front of the return in the deep end and less in the shallow end.
At 15 minutes using the Taylor kit I see 3/6
and using a spoonful of R-870 in 10ml's of pool water I counted 9 drops for water to clear (4.5).

I try to get a sample "elbow deep" away from the skimmer or returns using a sample bottle and bring it in the house to test.
I'm trying to explain my procedure because I feel like I'm doing something wrong here.

Next test with new sample in 15 minutes ...
 

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