I went ahead and did the FAS/DPD test.
FC 8.0
CC 0.0
TC 8.0
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FC 8.0
CC 0.0
TC 8.0
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TF-100 Test Results.
- Thread starter Sammy2
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I suspect you can hold-off on aeration for now as well. Your TA was a bit elevated which may allow pH to rise a little faster anyways. Now would be a good time to just let the pool settle and just focus on FC, pH, and TA tests for the next few days. If pH starts to shoot-up really fast over a day or two, then let us know and we'll show you how to lower TA if you don't know already. That should help.
Once those socks are empty, give it about a day and re-test your CYA to see how you're doing. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Great!
Once those socks are empty, give it about a day and re-test your CYA to see how you're doing. Enjoy the rest of your weekend.
Great!
I did a TA test too and it is now down to 110 vs 130 yesterday.
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- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,759
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
That's a good thing. Unless you have to add lots of new water from evaporation, the muriatic acid used to manage pH will help to bring the TA down as time goes on. Just something to watch for as the days go on.
I dialed the SWG down to 35% and will check FC again tomorrow, along with pH and TA. I think that later this week I may have to add MA again but on the order of ounces, maybe up to a pint, but certainly not another gallon!
Awesome job! A gallon of MA just sounds scary. Keep at it and you will have this down in no time
I just knew that my pH was out of control with the level of CH and TA combined with a pH reading that was "unreadable" with the OTO test as it was pretty darn dark red, almost blood red, combined with my low CyA levels and elevated FC I just knew it needed a boost of acid.
Results from poollogger.com
FC: 13
CC: 0
PH: 7.2
TA: 110
CH: 500
CYA: 50
Temp: 71
Salt: 3300
Dialed SWG down to 25% now.
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FC: 13
CC: 0
PH: 7.2
TA: 110
CH: 500
CYA: 50
Temp: 71
Salt: 3300
Dialed SWG down to 25% now.
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No, probably half of it, but I'm wondering why the FC went up. Maybe because it was nearly dark when I got to do the test and hard to see color changes? Maybe because the pool was not as warm? I'm not home all day during the week making testing in full daylight impossible.
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Ok. For testing everything besides CYA, you can do the tests indoors to make it easier to see when the titration is done.
This morning's results..
Results from poollogger.com
FC: >13
CC: no test
PH: 7.5
TA: no test
CH: no test
CYA: 80
Temp: 66
Salt: 3300
I didn't have time to do the full FAS/DPD before heading off to work but I assume my CC is 0 as there's been no swimming and there's been no organic load at all. The orange on the OTO test seemed odd so I did it twice with the same results so I shot the pic below.
The last time I did the full FAS/DPD test the chlorine was going up so I cut the SWG back to 25%. Today I turned it off until I get home.
The CyA test was done early under artificial light and may be higher than actual because of that and possibly adding to much R-0013 as it sometimes comes out a little fast.. not way too much but just above the shoulder on the little bottle. I pulled the socks just the same as I can put them back in but dialing down CyA is a different story all together.
Does increased CyA force the FC to go up as it binds to it?
It seems I'm going in the right direction but how low should I go in the SWG or pump run times? Currently my VSP goes 1400 RPM from midnight to 4am, 2200 RPM from 4am to 6:30am then 1400 RPM from then until noon. I run it again at 2200 RPM for a couple hours in the evening too. These run times are for acoustical aesthetics only and not necessary.
TIA
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Results from poollogger.com
FC: >13
CC: no test
PH: 7.5
TA: no test
CH: no test
CYA: 80
Temp: 66
Salt: 3300
I didn't have time to do the full FAS/DPD before heading off to work but I assume my CC is 0 as there's been no swimming and there's been no organic load at all. The orange on the OTO test seemed odd so I did it twice with the same results so I shot the pic below.
The last time I did the full FAS/DPD test the chlorine was going up so I cut the SWG back to 25%. Today I turned it off until I get home.
The CyA test was done early under artificial light and may be higher than actual because of that and possibly adding to much R-0013 as it sometimes comes out a little fast.. not way too much but just above the shoulder on the little bottle. I pulled the socks just the same as I can put them back in but dialing down CyA is a different story all together.
Does increased CyA force the FC to go up as it binds to it?
It seems I'm going in the right direction but how low should I go in the SWG or pump run times? Currently my VSP goes 1400 RPM from midnight to 4am, 2200 RPM from 4am to 6:30am then 1400 RPM from then until noon. I run it again at 2200 RPM for a couple hours in the evening too. These run times are for acoustical aesthetics only and not necessary.
TIA
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How much CYA is left in the socks? If you're possibly higher than 80, you'll want to pull those socks immediately until you can get a good, clean reading.
CYA doesn't cause FC to go up - only adding chlorine via bleach or your SWG will cause FC to go up. You'll want to add bleach to come up to your proper target level as CYA rises - you don't want to leave it low while waiting for the SWG to catch up.
CYA doesn't cause FC to go up - only adding chlorine via bleach or your SWG will cause FC to go up. You'll want to add bleach to come up to your proper target level as CYA rises - you don't want to leave it low while waiting for the SWG to catch up.
The socks are out right now and one started with more than the other with the lesser one almost empty now and the other a bit more. If I had to make a guestimate I'd say I've put in 4 lbs now with a starting CyA of 40 and a current CyA someplace between 70 and 80 due to testing irregularities indicated above. I can add more but taking some out is much more difficult.
My FC is plenty high enough right now I think.
My FC is plenty high enough right now I think.
Results from poollogger.com
FC: 14
CC: 0
PH: 7.8
TA: 110
CH: 375
CYA: 70
Temp: 69
Salt: 3300
Need to heat the pool and throw a pool party to drive that FC down. This weekend, more MA and aeration to push down TA.. calculator says 44oz but I'll start with a quart then aerate then add more.
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FC: 14
CC: 0
PH: 7.8
TA: 110
CH: 375
CYA: 70
Temp: 69
Salt: 3300
Need to heat the pool and throw a pool party to drive that FC down. This weekend, more MA and aeration to push down TA.. calculator says 44oz but I'll start with a quart then aerate then add more.
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I would shut the SWG off and see how much it drops tomorrow, if my pool were at 14, it would take almost 3 days to drop to 7 under current conditions. Then you could start it back up around 25-30% and see how it does. Trying to adjust it to get it to drop that much isn't giving you a good idea of where it should really be set to maintain a constant FC
SWG has been off since yesterday morning actually. I expected it to go down yesterday but I didn't test with the FAS/PDP test so I entered FC >13 as it was orange and not yellow on the OTO. I suspect now that it was much higher than that.
I think generating more Cl while bumping the CyA is why I'm seeing a higher reading now than when my CyA was at 40 as I'm having less loss of Cl due to it being sequestered by the CyA.
I can't wait to get the FC down and stable so I can tune the SWG but I suspect it will be at something around 30% or less but definitely less than the 50% it has been set at.
I suspect the manufacturers suggest a higher percentage so the pool will be nearly superchorinated to CYA (Cover your "you know whats") themselves, keeping the lawyers at bay while selling more salt cells.
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I think generating more Cl while bumping the CyA is why I'm seeing a higher reading now than when my CyA was at 40 as I'm having less loss of Cl due to it being sequestered by the CyA.
I can't wait to get the FC down and stable so I can tune the SWG but I suspect it will be at something around 30% or less but definitely less than the 50% it has been set at.
I suspect the manufacturers suggest a higher percentage so the pool will be nearly superchorinated to CYA (Cover your "you know whats") themselves, keeping the lawyers at bay while selling more salt cells.
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Cooler water and less sun use less chlorine in spring and fall. It'll need quite a bit more in June, July and August than it needs now. Also note, that the pH test is no valid when FC is above 10ppm.
Well, guess I need to crank up the heat and have a pool party then!
I suppose the upped FC level drives up the pH a bit and when it is brought down the pH will follow but I still need to bring down the TA so I still need to drop it to maybe 7.5 and aerate.
Thing is here my pool guy was keeping my pool free of Chloramines and by extension algae but the way he was doing it was costing me more than the monthly service charge as he was shortening the life of my cell.
I understand increased demand for FC in the warmer months but I will slowly bring the SWG percentage up as needed going forward this spring.
IDK if we're typical or not but whenever the outside temp is predicted to be above 75F on a weekend well be home, we heat the pool so our swim season runs from early March to early November. I suspect the FC will be down forthright.
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I suppose the upped FC level drives up the pH a bit and when it is brought down the pH will follow but I still need to bring down the TA so I still need to drop it to maybe 7.5 and aerate.
Thing is here my pool guy was keeping my pool free of Chloramines and by extension algae but the way he was doing it was costing me more than the monthly service charge as he was shortening the life of my cell.
I understand increased demand for FC in the warmer months but I will slowly bring the SWG percentage up as needed going forward this spring.
IDK if we're typical or not but whenever the outside temp is predicted to be above 75F on a weekend well be home, we heat the pool so our swim season runs from early March to early November. I suspect the FC will be down forthright.
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No, it doesn't work like that. While adding FC to a pool initially raises pH, the chemistry involved (in changing to HOCl) brings the pH right back to where it was. So, for our puposes adding FC is a pH neutral event. It has virtually no influence on the pH of your pool water
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