TF-100 Test Results.

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#1
Here's the results of my first run for my Salt Water Pool. For each test, I did two and took the average to help even out volumetric errors of the amount of pool water taken and confirm results are accurate and tests were done correctly.

Results:

TC >10ppm (Deeper yellow than test kit gradations)
FC 12 ppm
CC 0 ppm
pH >8.2 (deeper red than test kit gradiations)
TA 130
CH 600 (tap water here is 250ppm)
CyA 38
Salt 3200 ppm by test, 3600 ppm by meter on the Hayward generator Should be around 3800 ppm
Calculated CSI 1.09 (using TFP Calculator)

Ideal:

FC 4-6 ppm
PH 7.2-7.8
TA 60-80
CH 350-450 for plaster
CYA 70-80
Salt 200-400 ppm ABOVE recommended optimum level
CSI -0.8
Temp 78F

Action:

Turn down SWG from 50% to 40% (done already)
Add 48oz of CyA Stabilizer (need to procure)
Re-test in a week and reanalyze needs.

Am I on track here? I know adding CyA will lower the FC but it is too high already so lowering production will certainly help. I really cannot hurt the water too much in a week and can adjust next week.

Going to the high end of acceptable CH requires a drain and re-fill of 25% of the pool with Calcium free water which isn't practicable because our water starts out at 250 PPM to begin with so this would really mean a complete drain and refill. We will have to live with the scaling we have until the next drain which will be in 2.5 years (Due to water restrictions we're allowed one pool fill every 5 years at tier 1 water rates. Going beyond tier 2 is astronomical and not practicable as there's really no health problem with higher calcium levels.

Where's a good place to get CyA? There's a Leslie's a few blocks from here or will I save a bundle ordering on line and then not be able to put it in until later in the week?

TIA
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#2
Good job with the TF-100. Here's what I would recommend:
- Ignore CH for now. 600 is still manageable by keeping pH (and TA) lower
- Lower pH ASAP. Get it down to about 7.5. Re-check in stages as needed to be safe.
- TA is slightly elevated, but should begin to lower with more acid use. If not, we can help you with that later.
- As you know, add stabilizer. You can get stabilizer at Wal-Mart or any of the home improvement stores. Use the sock-soaking method to dissolve the granules. Once the granules are dissolved, you can re-test CYA in about 24 hrs or so and it should very close to your new target (min 70 for SWG pool). When testing CYA, round-up and don't try to split the viewing tube to get too specific. If it's closer to 70 (i.e. 68, call it 70). That should take a lot of stress of your SWG.

As always, use the Poolmath calculator to help you determine exact dosage amounts.

Hope that helps.
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#3
I was shooting for a first target of 60ppm on the CyA because I can always bring that up more next week. I used the calculator and considered MA but figured I'd just start with the CyA for now and then see how that goes for bringing down the pH. If need be, I'll add MA next week but I think that the CyA should bring it down.

I saw the sock method in a few posts and my wife says I have too many anyhow so I'll do that but have been considering pre-mixing granulated CyA in a clean one gallon jug I have and then adding that to the pool too.
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#4
BTW, going to walmart is a hassle and I don't really like going to HD or Lowe's for just one thing as it takes forever. All of these are miles away and Leslie's is right here so it is probably worth it for me to get it local if I need to get going today. I checked PoolSupplyWorld and they were a couple bucks cheaper, shipped and no tax but I won't see it for until Wednesday or Thursday so since it is looking like I need to put attention to this now, I'll probably just go to Leslie's. I might have a coupon someplace for them too..
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#5
5 lbs for $18 at Home Depot or 4 lbs for $26 at Leslie's. Guess where I'm going? I can pre-order it and pick it up at the Pro-Desk. There's really nothing else I need right now at all but this is worth the slight side trip on our way to visit my MiL later today.
 

duraleigh

Admin
Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Platinum Supporter
LifeTime Supporter
In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
31,321
Sebring, Florida
#6
but have been considering pre-mixing granulated CyA in a clean one gallon jug I have and then adding that to the pool too.
It won't work well at all. I would suggest you stay with the sock method.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#8
Sammy, I'm just catching-up on your thread. Just to confirm ... stabilizer (Cyanuric Acid) will only effect your CYA. Muriatic Acid will lower pH and TA. While you work on dialing-on your CYA closer to 70, it's very important you lower the pH right away to about 7.5 with MA. When it comes to scale (or corrosion when low), pH has the most detrimental and immediate effect. Since you typically have an elevated CH level in your area, keeping the pH below 7.7 or so is especially important.

As for stabilizer shopping .... ha ha..... absolutely. Get it where it's cheapest. Later, you might decide to order it on-line and save the gas. :)
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#9
Won't adding more CyA pick up more FC from the water thereby lowering FC?

CyA is acidic, right? High pH is basic. Adding any acid to a base will neutralize the pH to 7. It just depends on the molarity of the acid if I remember my chemistry correctly. It seems MA will work faster but CyA should also lower the pH, no?

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Analogbytes

Bronze Supporter
Dec 22, 2016
291
Arlington, Texas
#10
Pool math states stabilizer will decrease pH. maybe not?

- - - Updated - - -

Nope, it will lower pH. Your pH level is your most important thing that needs to be changed at the moment. Stock up on a couple gallons cause you will use it.
opps, my mind was going faster than my fingers. Stock up on a few gallons of MA and get some in as soon as you can.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#11
Pool math states stabilizer will decrease pH. maybe not?
If you're referring to the part near the bottom for "Effects of adding Chemicals", that side effect is very, very small. If you look on the Recommended Chemicals page, you'll see which chemicals are primary relied upon to adjust any particular item. MA is the weapon of choice for pH. :)

I'm not a chemist, (failed that one :hammer:) and others here at TFP get into the weeds on that. But while both CYA and MA are technically "acid", their impact on pH are much different. Also, adding more CYA will require more FC as noted on the Chlorine/CYA Chart (link below), but as noted on that chart they must be balanced together. Exceeding that balance one way or the other is either a waste of FC, or leaves the water more susceptible to algae. Hope that helps.
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#12
I am mobile at the present time and do not have my test results with me. I found out that Home Depot's acid is 50% as strong as the acid at Leslies. I bought 2 gallons 31.5% MA at Leslie's. I hope it's enough but I can buy more tomorrow.

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Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#14
Just now added a gallon of MA. How long to wait to retest? I'm thinking since it is liquid and the pool is running at full speed, 3450 RPM, that I should be able to retest later this afternoon.

As far as the CyA goes, I need to put the sock thing together and get that going soon but since it takes a while to get into the pool and I can't / shouldn't bother too retest for a week I think I have a little bit of time to do that.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#16
How did you calculate 1 gallon? Pool math shows about 80oz to go down to 7.2. Be care with MA as it can crash your pH. You can test after about 30 minutes
Sammy, I agree with this. One gallon is a lot at one time, so hopefully the calculator have you that estimate. But definitely check in about 30 min as noted and let us know how your pH and TA look.

As for the CYA, you can do that at any time using the sock method, Just fill a white sock with the granule stabilizer and let it hang near a return jet or place it in the skimmer. You can squeeze it form time to time to help the granules dissipate.

 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#17
Mine was much darker than the 8.2 color on the K-1000 OTO test kit so pH is higher than 8.2. I figured 9.0 but that may be too high. I am circulating and aerating with the spa booster and sheer descents now. I'll check it and report back.

- - - Updated - - -

BTW, all my returns are right above either steps or seats so I have two socks free floating now.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
#19
That's a relief! That pH will be fine for now and will slowly rise on its own over the next couple/few days. Simply test pH each day to ensure it never goes above the 7.8 mark. Since you have naturally high CH in that area, I would keep the pH around 7.5.

As for the FC, it's bright yellow, but remember the OTO is a convenience test for quick reference. When you want pinpoint accuracy, which most of us do, use the FAS-DPD (R-0870 power & R-0871 drops) for your FC tests. After all, that's why you go the TF-100. :) Simply do the following:

Put 10ml water in your "chlorine only" tube, and add one heaping scoop of &-0870 powder. It should turn pink as you mix. Consistently count/add one drop at a time the R-0871 reagent and count the number of drops until it turns the sample clear. Then take that number and divide by 2. Example: 14 drops = FC of 7. That's it!

Nice job on the socks.. :goodjob:
 

Sammy2

Well-known member
Aug 30, 2016
378
Riverside, CA
#20
My CC was 0 yesterday and there's no reason to believe it went up as the pool hasn't been used and it is saturated with Cl right now so the OTO should be accurate for use for the next couple of days.

I'm thinking I don't need to aerate anymore. Am I correct?

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