TF-100 Chlorine Cylinder Losing Markings?

I had to mark mine with a sharpie as well. I am going to try to find some glass ones. The plastic China ones are just cheap China Crud. You get what you pay for i guess.
Will the speed stir work with a glass cylinder? Also, I’d have to give second thought to glass as it may be something I take into the pool area. Though, I typically do my tests on the counter near my kitchen sink.
 
The plastic China ones are just cheap China Crud. You get what you pay for i guess.
Yeah, sort of. The glass vials could have been included in your kit, broken when you dropped it and fallen into your pool........giving you or someone a big time cut when you couldn't find all the glass....personally, I'll take the plastic and "get what I pay for". TFTestkits and Taylor do not choose to include glass vials in their testing hardware.
 
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Will the speed stir work with a glass cylinder? Also, I’d have to give second thought to glass as it may be something I take into the pool area. Though, I typically do my tests on the counter near my kitchen sink.
They certainly will... in a lab the beakers and flasks are all glass. The magnetic stirrers are the same. But as Dave says I wouldn't use glassware by the pool.
 
Not sure if mentioned before, but no need for markings on the vial. Get a $3 60ml veterinary syringe.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZ2HMJ7

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I collect the water in a 2-cup measuring container, and take it inside to my kitchen. Then I extract water from the 2-cup container using the syringe, and fill the test vial to the appropriate mark for the test.

If I'm only doing FC and pH, I just take the syringe out to the pool and fill it directly; as 25ml is plenty for those two tests alone.

I find this works really well, although I use the markings on the test cylinder instead of the syringe.
 
Sample sizer is by far the best way I've found as well. If you get dark stains from the FC powder reagent that has been stored improperly it still works and easiest way to clean it is to swirl a little vinegar in the tube. Comes right off with no scrubbing.
 

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Maybe I'm testing my new pool too often, or is this common for the chlorine cylinder's markings to wear off this quickly?

On the left is the TF-100 cylinder for all the non-chlorine tests, and on the right is the TF-100 chlorine only cylinder. The pool was filled on Aug 28th, and I've been testing multiple times a day, as I learn my pool's cycle. So 9 days of testing on this cylinder.

My test process is to fill a 2-cup measuring container with pool water, and bring it inside. Then I have a 25ml syringe I use to extract water from the 2-cup container, and fill the appropriate graduated cylinders for each test. I fill the chlorine one to 10ml, drop in the speedstir pill, and test away.

I dry each component before putting it away as well.

View attachment 161307
Same thing happened to mine. I actually used a nail to scratch the 10 ml line in mine. I thought sharpie would wear off over time.
 
Stoopalini I lke the syringe idea! I use a bottle from an art store to collect my sample. It never gets rinsed with tap water. I leave pool water in it from my last test. I pour that back into my skimmer, then I fill it up with current pool water. I pour that out and then collect my sample elbow deep. Then a small squirt to make sure the spout is full of current pool water. What I like about the spout, is I can add pool water one drop at a time.
My Chlorine Only plastic vial also lost it's markings because I was overly aggressive cleaning the vial. I used small slivers of adhesive vinyl to mark 10 & 25 mm levels. It has lasted all season.
I keep all glass bottles away from my pool.
I test everything by a North Light basement window and store the kit in a dark cool closet.

Sample Vial.jpg
 
I use a bottle from an art store to collect my sample. It never gets rinsed with tap water. I leave pool water in it from my last test. I pour that back into my skimmer, then I fill it up with current pool water. I pour that out and then collect my sample elbow deep. Then a small squirt to make sure the spout is full of current pool water. What I like about the spout, is I can add pool water one drop at a time.
The twin I didn't know I had!! I've found you! Well fraternal. Cousin, maybe. I pour my "old" pool water into the shallow end, away from where I sample, and use the PVC trick instead of dipping in the ol' arm. But everything else identical, even down to the "pre-squirt!"

What was your birth mother's mother's maiden name? ;) I think that's where I get it from...
 
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Dirk, I am already a twin.
But we can share our clean testing process. I should also note that I don't think the testing kit has any business in a kitchen. I am a retired photographer and I must say food, smoke & drink have no place in a laboratory .
 
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Dirk, I am already a twin.
But we can share our clean testing process. I should also note that I don't think the testing kit has any business in a kitchen. I am a retired photographer and I must say food, smoke & drink have no place in a laboratory .
No foolin'? You mean I have two brothers?!? We're a handsome bunch, aren't we? :cool:

Yah, I cringe when I hear of folks testing in the kitchen (KK, you know who you are!!). I test on my laundry room counter under an LED strip. Very consistent light, good temperature and no shadows. I don't follow the testing-outdoors thing, even for CYA, as I believe a consistent light source is more important. And I almost had a fit when I caught the pool guy I hired to help me with startup throwing his test solutions into my pool. That was the first and last time that ever happened!
 
One of the advantages of color comparing (colorimetery) is it doesn't making any difference what the background light is.. at least for doing the K1000 tests. Most of the time I test at the pool.. if I haul my samples inside I use the sink by the wet bar. That way I can break all the rules at the same time.. check my alkilinity, while belting down a strong one.. the bar stools qualify has heavy machinery... hic.
 
One of the advantages of color comparing (colorimetery) is it doesn't making any difference what the background light is.. at least for doing the K1000 tests.
Well, you snuck in that little caveat on the end there, so I can't technically argue that. So I will anyway. The first half of your statement is true, but only if you're comparing like to like, like colored pool water to other colored pool water. It is less true when comparing different materials (like colored pool water to colored plastic) and definitely not true when comparing different color models (like additive vs subtractive: like colored pool water to colors printed on a piece of paper).

That off my chest, the light you use to test pool water makes little difference in how much of this or that you dose your pool with. I just like to eliminate variables, however insignificant, when it is just as easy to do so as not. So you... you.... you... weeerrrreeee... were... right. Ouch, that hurt... 😩
 
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