Testing my tap water..

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#1
Hi, hopefully getting my pool installed soon (you may have seen my "rain rain go away" rant last week...it's still an issue).

Decided to try out the TF-100 kit though on my tap water. Do these numbers look legit?

CL= 1 (left side of tester)
PH= 8.2 (right side of tester)
FC= 1 (2 drops)
CC= 1.5 (3 drops)
TA= 140 (14 drops)

The FC+CC doesn't appear to equal the TC, is that a user error?

I've plugged the numbers into the calculator, any advice on where to start? Just wanting to check before I get too carried away.

Thanks as always!
 
G

Guest

#2
thenikeman said:
Hi, hopefully getting my pool installed soon (you may have seen my "rain rain go away" rant last week...it's still an issue).

Decided to try out the TF-100 kit though on my tap water. Do these numbers look legit?

CL= 1 (left side of tester)
This test needs to sit for a minute or two to fully develop so that is why it might have read lower than the titration test. Also it is not as precise so there is going to be some variation. It is really designed for a quick daily check to see if there chlorine is about where it should be. The drop test should be used weekly.
PH= 8.2 (right side of tester)
FC= 1 (2 drops)
CC= 1.5 (3 drops)
TA= 140 (14 drops)

The FC+CC doesn't appear to equal the TC, is that a user error?

I've plugged the numbers into the calculator, any advice on where to start? Just wanting to check before I get too carried away.

Thanks as always!
Any reason you didn't test calcium hardness? You should know that number also.
First thing I would do is lower your pH to 7.5 and then retest the TA.
 

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#3
Thanks. I didn't test the calcium because I thought that was only important on non-vinyl liner pools. I will run a test tomorrow to see what that figure will be. And CYA is definetly 0, correct?
 
G

Guest

#4
If you have not added any CYA it will be 0. It is not found in tap water unless the water has become contaminated.
Calcium is not needed for vinyl pools like it is for plaster or fiberglass BUT it is important to know your calcium levels. Very high levels could lead to scaling conditions and many parts of the country have very hard water. Very soft water has a tendency to foam more than hard water. If you calcium is below about 120 ppm you might want to bump it up a bit. If it is above about 300 ppm you want to keep close watch on your pH and not let it rise about about 7.8 so you don't create conditions favorable to scaling.
 

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#8
waterbear said:
No, it's pretty much the 'sweet spot' for a vinyl pool.
Cool!

How does this order / quantity sound, to begin treating my new fill water once it arrives(basing this on 16000 gallons):

The Pool Calculator is saying to add 35oz of muriatic acid to lower my ph to 7.5. So do that first, then add 66oz of 6% bleach to raise the FC to 3. Then begin adding stabilizer to raise CYA to around 40, it says 5 lbs 5 oz, should I start with about 3lbs first (and then test a week later)?

I just want to make sure that I'm adding chemicals in the correct order and not overshooting the quantities too early on. For the most part, these can be added every couple hours apart right, while running the pump 24/7 for a couple days?

Thanks for the advice thus far waterbear!
 

duraleigh

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TFP Expert
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In The Industry
Apr 1, 2007
31,271
Sebring, Florida
#10
That plan works fine.

the muriatic can be distributed into the pool virtually simultaneously with the chlorine.....one right after the other in no particular order.

Likewise, the stabilizer can go in to new pool water along with the chlorine and muriatic....no need to spread them apart.

I'm slightly more agressive on the dosages. I would personally do about 80% of the calculated dosage and then test and adjust. (Most of the time, you'll get a reading on CYA in 2-3 days.....sometimes it's a little longer)

You are wise to prepare in advance....you're water will stay sparkling all summer.
 

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#11
Thanks Dave. So just add all 3 chemicals like stated, and then re-test? Just wondering how much my other numbers would adjust, like the TA, although I need it to come down a bit anyways.
 

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#12
The day has finally come... the pool is getting installed tomorrow!!!

After over a month delay due to weather, etc, they will be out here at 7am to get it started. There is a chance of rain/storms tomorrow evening, but they should have it up by then, and I will take all the rain I can to help with fill water!

I will be taking pics throughout the process and will post my fill numbers up ASAP, to run them by you all before I add anything, just to make sure I start it off correctly!

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
 

thenikeman

Well-known member
May 13, 2008
74
East of KC, MO
#13
OK, so I lied last week when I said the pool will be completed...it finally got completed yesterday...GEEZ! Will get into that later. I will be going to the pool store tomorrow to get my water tested so they can give me "their chemicals" plus have to pick up a pressure hose and a few other misc. items. BTW, I am going with the BBB system still, just have to act like I am going with chlorine :)

I will probably be posting my test numbers one more time tomorrow, to make sure I am correct in what to add. Question now is, since I have straight tap water, how long do I need to run by pump once I add the chemicals? Do I start off running it only 12 hrs a day (split up perhaps) or do I need to run it continuously for a couple days? Was just wondering...thanks!