We've decided to make the switch to chlorine and I've been reading many of the posts regarding the conversion process. I haven't added any baquacil recently and the sanitizer level is at 19. Should I write off the rest of this year -- about 4 or 5 weeks in NJ where I live -- or begin the conversion process outlined on this board? I really appreciate the feedback.
Switch now or wait till next year?
- Thread starter joconnor316
- Start date
Welcome to TFP!
The conversion process will be the same whether you do it now or next year. It's just a matter of choice on your part. Either way, we are here to help.
The conversion process will be the same whether you do it now or next year. It's just a matter of choice on your part. Either way, we are here to help.
I say go for it! I made the conversion about this time last summer. Once the process is complete, you will still have almost a month to enjoy the clearest pool you've ever seen. My startup was even alot easier and faster this spring than it ever was while using Baquacil.
arvil
Well-known member
In eastern PA, I also switched last year about this time when I couldn't get rid of some green because I was on a di- and trichlor diet. CYA was up above 120. After finding this forum and just browsing a bit, I switched to 12.5% bleach, and Voila!! no more green. Over winter, CYA went to zero. A few pucks solved that. Then this spring was used to continue to the total conversion to BBB. Won't go back. I vote with Samantha_in_AL, go for it!
Thanks for the feedback. We're going to get started today. I've used the pool calculator and it says I need 6 gallons of bleach to start. Based on what I've read here, it's probably going to take well over 100 to finish the job. My one big concern is the lack of time my wife and I have to oversee the process during the work week. Any thoughts or suggestions on this front are apprecaited.
Pool stats:
21 x 41 above ground oval with "deep end". Aprox 25,000 gallons; Sand filter; 1 1/2 h.p. pump (I think)
Pool stats:
21 x 41 above ground oval with "deep end". Aprox 25,000 gallons; Sand filter; 1 1/2 h.p. pump (I think)
Sunlight burns off unprotected chlorine fairly quickly. Since you will be busy in the daytime bring the water back to your conversion level just before sundown so the chlorine can work more efficiently overnight. Bring it back up to level again in the morning before you leave so there is something in there during the day. It will be very low/0 by the time you get home. Hit it hard on the weekends too, and monitor the FC and top it off frequently during the day.
- Aug 4, 2007
- 68
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair iChlor 30
I encourage you to switch and wish you the best. It will work! An alternative method I used last year is as follows: Starting with a relatively algae-free pool, I stopped Baq additions about Aug. 15. Letting the Baq gradually decompose to zero level, we also stopped using the pool (no kids and my wife and I were OK with this). I added sodium monopersulfate oxidizer frequently (about 3-4 lb./week. in a 20,000 gal pool) until closing around Labor Day. When I opened in the Spring, my Baq reading was zero. I started the bleach additions per Pool School instructions and got no color change or muck. It did take about 2-3 days to pass the overnight chlorine loss test, but I used relatively little bleach (maybe 8-10 gallons of 6%) and was swimming in no time. I plan to use this method on my son's AGP this Fall. Downside is you don't swim from now until closing (persulfate is an oxidizer and is not approved as a sanitizer). On the other hand, if you live in NJ or north you only have about 2-3 weeks left anyway and the conversion will take the better part of that.
A couple of more questions:
Should I run the filter 24/7 during the conversion process?
The total alkilinity is low (60), I think I read on the board that it's best to wait until after the conversion is complete before "fine-tuning" anything besides the FC and CC reading. Is that correct?
Should I run the filter 24/7 during the conversion process?
The total alkilinity is low (60), I think I read on the board that it's best to wait until after the conversion is complete before "fine-tuning" anything besides the FC and CC reading. Is that correct?
Yes, run the filter 24/7.
Generally there isn't any need to worry about anything besides PH before you start the conversion. On the other hand, it would help a little to raise TA to around 80. Make sure you get the PH to between 7.2 and 7.4 before you start.
Generally there isn't any need to worry about anything besides PH before you start the conversion. On the other hand, it would help a little to raise TA to around 80. Make sure you get the PH to between 7.2 and 7.4 before you start.
Thanks Jason,
Ph was at 7.4 before the first bleach treatment. I'll add some total alkilinity to raise it the 20 points or so that we're low now. I ordered the recommended test kit, but it won't be here for a few days. Picked up one at Target in the meantime. The highest reading it will give for FC is 5ppm. Not sure how to keep the chlorine at 15. Any suggestions?
Ph was at 7.4 before the first bleach treatment. I'll add some total alkilinity to raise it the 20 points or so that we're low now. I ordered the recommended test kit, but it won't be here for a few days. Picked up one at Target in the meantime. The highest reading it will give for FC is 5ppm. Not sure how to keep the chlorine at 15. Any suggestions?
Dilute the sample 1:3 or 1:4 with distilled water. Not ideal, but better than not knowing anything. What kit did you get? If the chlorine test is yellow, not pink, figure the sample will be orange when you're up at shock level.joconnor316 said:
Thanks Richard,
Great idea. I diluted my most recent sample (doing them hourly today) and the apparent reading was about 2. Was then able to calculate the next dose of chlorine for a target of 15 ppm.
Great idea. I diluted my most recent sample (doing them hourly today) and the apparent reading was about 2. Was then able to calculate the next dose of chlorine for a target of 15 ppm.
During a baquacil conversion, you don't have to use dilution, you can just wait a little longer, and the FC level will be below 5 and you can use the test normally.
Jason, thanks for the advice.
This morning's test showed a reading above 5 ppm, I added a bottle of bleach since I won't be home during the day and figured "it couldn't hurt."
Question: when can we expect to see you change in the water's appearance. It's pea soup green this morning. I'm telling myself "it takes as long as it takes", but I'm have no idea what that time frame is.
This morning's test showed a reading above 5 ppm, I added a bottle of bleach since I won't be home during the day and figured "it couldn't hurt."
Question: when can we expect to see you change in the water's appearance. It's pea soup green this morning. I'm telling myself "it takes as long as it takes", but I'm have no idea what that time frame is.
How long the first stage takes depends a great deal on how frequently you add chlorine (and if you have any CYA in the water). Without any CYA and adding chlorine every hour it can be as short as two days. With CYA and only three of four chlorine additions a day it can take a week or two. During the second stage, when the water has cleared but the CC level is still substantial, things slow down and it just takes time, with the total amount of time depending more on how much baquacil residue there is in the plumbing rather than anything you do.
joconnor, I'm glad you decided to go ahead with the conversion. If you guys are off work on weekends, try to test your water as often as possible and add bleach to keep it at shock level. That should speed up your conversion. By the way, we love pictures on this forum!
Got my 'deluxe testing kit' yesterday. Yahoo!
Last night's readings were
FC: 5
CC: 2
Did the CYA test but was never able to make the dot disappear which, I assme, means the level is <20
This morning's readings were:
FC: 12
CC: 3
Think things are moving along.
(was unable to get a picture to post, got an error message)
Last night's readings were
FC: 5
CC: 2
Did the CYA test but was never able to make the dot disappear which, I assme, means the level is <20
This morning's readings were:
FC: 12
CC: 3
Think things are moving along.
(was unable to get a picture to post, got an error message)
When you can still see the dot at the end of the CYA test, even when the tube is full of sample water, your CYA level is zero.
The easiest way to post photos is to get a free account at PhotoBucket.com and link to the photos there.
The easiest way to post photos is to get a free account at PhotoBucket.com and link to the photos there.
Last night's reading:
FC: 10
CC: 3
This Morning @ 8 a.m.
FC: 10
CC: 3.5
This morning @ 11 a.m. (after vacuuming and changing filter sand)
FC: 12
CC: 5
Don't think the filter has been doing much lately so we went ahead and changed the sand now. May have to change it one more time, but I anticipate this will help the pool begin to clear.
FC: 10
CC: 3
This Morning @ 8 a.m.
FC: 10
CC: 3.5
This morning @ 11 a.m. (after vacuuming and changing filter sand)
FC: 12
CC: 5
Don't think the filter has been doing much lately so we went ahead and changed the sand now. May have to change it one more time, but I anticipate this will help the pool begin to clear.
Okay, finally figured out how to post a picture (thanks for the advice, Jason)
Here's the pool prior to beginning the conversion process
As you can see, it had gotten really cloudy and we couldn't get it to clear.
Here's the pool prior to beginning the conversion process
As you can see, it had gotten really cloudy and we couldn't get it to clear.