SWG problem?

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
I haven't been on the board lately because my pool's been doing great, but I'm back with a problem (?)

Over the last several days I've noticed my Aqua Rite 6D22 Chlorine Generator (with a Hayward Turbo-Cell T-Cell-15) keeps showing the "Check Cell" and "Check Salt" lights flashing. Two weeks ago I cleaned the cell (now 3 years old) and reset the Aqua Rite by pressing and holding the reset button for several seconds, but both lights will start flashing again after a little while. The salt shows either 2600 or 2700 depending on the time of the day, so I know I'm a bit low, but I've been low before without the lights flashing, so am I in need of a new cell? A new control board? Both? Neither?

By the way, the Aqua Rite is very old (2005) and the firmware is 1.33, so I know I can't use any of the aftermarket generators and will have to stick to the Hayward, right?

Here's the numbers on the display:

2600 (salt)
58 (pool temp)
31.4 (voltage)
0.00 (current)
77P (output)
-0 (instant salinity)
AL-2 (product name)
R1.33 (revision)

Any help would be most appreciated.
Ed
 
Last edited:

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
No, sorry. I'm going to go out this afternoon after work (3:00) and get a report from my local Leslie's. I'll let you know what it says after I get home.

And thanks for the link! I now know what the numbers mean, so I've edited my above. I also notice my current is at zero. The pool is running right now, so does that mean I have a problem?

Ed
 
Last edited:

mknauss

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
May 3, 2014
37,112
Laughlin, NV
Pool Size
6000
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
OK -- best to have your own test kit. But see what they say.
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,115
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell serial number?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

 

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
According to the link you provided, it appears I have something wrong in the Aqua Rite:

Zero current and zero salinity
The salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function. The symptoms correlate to either of the following;
  • Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
  • K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
  • Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)
A replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.

Ed
 

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
Ok, I was posting as you were so here's the results of my turning it off, waiting a minute, then turning it back on again. I had to wait another minute for the results to stabilize:

2700 (salt)
57 (pool temp)
26.0 (voltage)
4.03 (current)
79P (setting)
-2600 (instant salinity)
AL-2 (product name)
R1.33 (revision)

Also, the serial number of the cell is 3E17065-204756

Ed
 

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
Okay, after waiting another few minutes, The voltage is now at 26.2, the current is now at 3.94 and the instant salinity is now at -2500. All the rest are the same.

Ed
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,115
The problem might be just low salinity.

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

The cell is less 4 years old, so it's probably ok.

Check for scale if the performance percentage is less than 90%.
 

restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
James, I couldn't find the K-1766 on the site you linked, but I DID find it on ebay for just over $28 bucks, so I'll order one. In the meantime, I'll be leaving for Leslie's in a few minutes so we should know more in an hour or so.

Ed
 

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restoman

Well-known member
Dec 24, 2010
116
Murrieta, CA 92563
Ok, back from Leslie's.

Before I left, I checked the readings again and here's what I got:

2600 salt
57 temp
31.3 voltage
0.00 current
79P setting
-0 salinity

The results from Leslie's is as follows:

Salt - 2603
Free chlorine - 2.98
Total chlorine - 2.98
ph - 8.1 (a little high so I'll had some muriatic acid)
Alkalinity - 107
Calcium hardness - 505 (high but there's not much I can do about this. I live in an area where we have EXTREMELY hard water!)
Cyanuric acid - 37 (low, so I'll add some cya in a few days)
Iron - 0.1
Copper - 0.2
Phosphates - 154 (high, so I'll had a few caps of PhosFree)

The guy at Leslie's said to turn my generator down WAY low, around 10, because we're at the time of the year where we really don't need to generate. He also said that I don't need to add the salt until the temperatures start to come up. Finally, he said to ignore the readings on teh box because in the winter they don't always tell the truth.

Agree or disagree?

Ed
 

JamesW

TFP Expert
Mar 2, 2011
24,115
You can move the switch to off and just use liquid chlorine for a while or add some salt and use the SWG as needed to maintain the FC.
 
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