SWG AMPs Start High but Drop

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xtrsports

xtrsports

0
Jun 8, 2013
45
Cape Cod, MA
T-Cell 15 - The AMPs on my Goldline SWG start out at 5.2 and then, somewhere between 90-120 minutes of operation, it drops down to about .82. I say about because the number varies but it's always below 1.0. Is this normal behavior? Is it related more to the T-Cell or the controller? The T-Cell is probably nearing end of life @ about 7 years old.
 
In general, current in the cell will start off higher than it settles down to but it really should not be that low for the T-15. The unit should alarm if the amps gets too low. What are all of the readings?
 
You'll see by the Firmware number that the Goldline system has a few years on it. I was thinking that I may need a thermistor replacement?

Salt 3100
Temp 74
31.3
0.78 AMPS
70p
-3100
AL - 5
r 1.40

Salt as measured by Taylor kit is 3200 so close enough.

Thanks
 
The cell was recently cleaned, has never had much build up on it but I regularly do the acid wash as per the instructions. (which I understand may cause challenges as well... acid deteriorating the cell coatings). I've had a look at the link you shared, very informative. That is what give me the idea that it might be the Thermistor. My understanding is that the cell has a salt indicator so even though the Jandy may be reporting 3100 ppm, the cell itself may have a faulty reading and sending a signal to the control unit to cycle down the AMPs? Does this sound plausible?
 
The cell is passive. It doesn't "signal" anything back to the controller. There are only two sets of connections, one for power to the plates and another for cell temperature.

There are only a couple of reasons for low amps, the voltage is too low, which in this case is fine, or the effective area of the cell plates has decreased, dirty or worn cells. Given the age of the cell, it is likely worn out. Best thing to do is to have it tested.
 
Ok. In the article you referenced above it mentioned this: "The control board sets the amps based on the cells salinity reading. Higher salinity will generate higher amps. Amps over 8 can overheat the thermistor. If the amps are 8.0 or higher after you replace the thermistor, you should reduce the salinity to prevent repeated failures.[18]" I also noticed yesterday that when the amps drop lower than 1 my instant salinity reading sometimes goes to -0. If it isn't reading salinity from the cell I'll assume that it is reading it from the probe connected to the goldline controller? Could that be a problem? I called a few pool stores and they have no facility to test a cell.
 
The control board sets the amps based on the cells salinity reading
Click to expand...
This part isn't exactly true or at least I would not describe it that way. The board simply applies a voltage to the cell plates and the current is the result of the plate area and the conductivity of the water (i.e. salinity). There is very little "control" of the process by the board. The cell is either on or off. The board measures the voltage and amps delivered to the cell as well as the temperature off the temperature probe. The salinity the cell displays is calculated from the volts, amps and water temperature.
 
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@OP, I think you may have a K1/K2 relay bad solder joint. You will need to remove the Aquarite mainboard and inspect for bad solder. Focus mainly on the K1/K2 relay and J5 (cell conn) solder. Also, inspect the T-cell connector itself for possible burned pins. Use a magnifying lens if needed. Reference the link in post# 4 for pics.
 
Change AL-5 to AL-0 and then do the following:

Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.
 

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xtrsports said:
Salt 3100
Temp 74
31.3
0.78 AMPS
70p
-3100
AL - 5
r 1.40
Click to expand...
These number would not happen. The instant salinity will not be 3,100 when the amps are low.

The amp reading should drop to zero when the cell goes to the off part of the cycle at 84 minutes into the cycle.

It's a 120 minute cycle, so the cell should work for 84 minutes and then be off for 36 minutes and then cycle back on for another 120 minute cycle in the opposite polarity.

The amp meter might be wrong, the display might be missing segments or the relay might be beginning to fail.
 
Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
3100
77
30.6
085p
0
Al-0
R1.4

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
3100
77
24.1
5.35
85p
3100
Al-0
R 1.4

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
3100
78
27.1
.92
85p
0
Al-0
R 1.4
 
Check the back of the circuit board for any burn marks or bad solder points.

If you find any bad solder, touch up the solder points.

If the board looks good, I would replace the cell.
 
Ok, I suspect that the cell is likely bad, but I would check the circuit board carefully just to make sure that there are no bad spots.

It might be a failing relay or a bad solder joint.
 
JamesW said:
Check the back of the circuit board for any burn marks or bad solder points.

If you find any bad solder, touch up the solder points.

If the board looks good, I would replace the cell.
Click to expand...
Had a look. nothing burned, all contacts look clean. Seems like it must be the cell. Question for my general education... and I'm probably reading too much into eval steps you asked for but "guessing" that the polarity reverses each time the unit is turned on/off with at least a minute of delay between cycles?
 

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