swap out Hayward panel/Jacuzzi cell for Jacuzzi panel/cell or figure out what problem is?

Since you have a Prologic, please see post# 3 here.

Indeed, I was hoping for a member near the OP's area to offer some help and save the day! @chlorinatorpro (y)
thx, I have to run out now but I opened another link and will look at this later. :) thx for your wishes, too, that someone local would save the day. It's a large city so I might just need to drive a bit. :)
 
Found an electronic repair guy who will solder for $15. Husband isn't really handy and he liked the idea of taking the motherboard out tomorrow morn and bringing it Monday the repair guy since it's by his work and then put it in Monday eve. With that, we were thinking we wouldn't be able to run the pool pump or it'd be dangerous. How long can i leave the pool without the filter running? That's almost 2 days. I'm picturing a large paddle to stir the water. haha. Good thing is the water is just a few ths old but it's also in the 110s degrees. Or maybe we get a solder gun and do it ourselves. How hard is it to solder, really? what's the worst that can happen by not running the filter for a couple of days? thx!
 
Just pickup liquid chlorine and pour 5 ppm of LC in the water daily and stir with your pool brush or paddle.

Pump and filter are not necessary.
 
K1 and K2 relays are the two Omron relays in the middle of the board. The top one has a 6 on it.

Check the solder joints on the back where they connect to.
 
we may seem incompetent here but the wires on the side of the green must come out by turning the screws then pulling while most everything else unplugs?
Correct. Lossen the screws and the wires pull out.
 

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I don't know what specific boards you have looked at. Hayward has different boards for the ProLogic, AquaLogic, and other systems that are similar but different. If they run the Hayward SWG they all have the same components somewhere on the board.
 
If I'm correct, I have a Hayward Goldline Pro Logic. Anyone know where the best place is to buy a new motherboard and if it didn't work would I be out the money and stuck with it or would I be able to return it? I found some on amazon but they are not identical looking and I looked at local pool store, Leslies, and they don't have any. Hayward is 10 min from my house. Too bad I don't think they don't sell to the public! thx
 
If I'm correct, I have a Hayward Goldline Pro Logic.

Goldline introduced AquaLogic in 2003. Hayward acquired Goldline in August of 2004. Hayward discontinued AquaLogic in 2008 and replaced it with Prologic. Hayward Automation Guide describes the different versions of the Prologic system and its capabilities.

ProLogic uses the GLX-PCB-PRO board.

Anyone know where the best place is to buy a new motherboard and if it didn't work would I be out the money and stuck with it or would I be able to return it? I found some on amazon but they are not identical looking and I looked at local pool store, Leslies, and they don't have any.

Most places have a no-return policy on electronic boards. They have no way to test returns and determine if you damaged the board or if they can resell it.

eBay or another online site is the way to get rid of it if it doesn't work for you.
 
Goldline introduced AquaLogic in 2003. Hayward acquired Goldline in August of 2004. Hayward discontinued AquaLogic in 2008 and replaced it with Prologic. Hayward Automation Guide describes the different versions of the Prologic system and its capabilities.

ProLogic uses the GLX-PCB-PRO board.



Most places have a no-return policy on electronic boards. They have no way to test returns and determine if you damaged the board or if they can resell it.

eBay or another online site is the way to get rid of it if it doesn't work for you.
thx. that makes my decision easier. if the resoldering doesn't work I'll probably just buy a new system, then. it's roughly the same amount of $ as the pb would charge for a new motherboard. Now to backwash the pool and take out motherboard. It'll be dark soon. I'll post pics when I get it out.
 
new plan. I'll check back when we make more progress. We're going to have pb come out as planned Wed just to make sure it's not the cell that's bad since they need to see why we're getting very large bubbles coming out of the pop ups and we've been trying to fix that and needing to take care of that. likely pb will say it's the panel and we'll go through with soldering. thx!
 
pb came out and sure enough, the K1 was burnt out! pb said I could solder it but it'll probably just happen again. He said it's not common for people to be on a 4th cell in 6 yrs and already a burnt out board but he didn't seem to have a good reason why since pool looks good, calcium isn't high, and we take better care of our pool than the average pool owner. Maybe it's been a fluke? We'll resolder and see how long it lasts. Pb said they wouldn't really recommend getting a different SWG cuz we still need the hayward board to run the pool, so then we are adding parts. That's something to think about , but my guess is the SWG is the trickier part of the panel? I called Leslies today and they said the benefit of their SWG is that they r running a deal right now for free install and the guy said he believes it's 5 yr "limited" warranty with free tech to come to house anytime it breaks. See through cell. My guess though, is dealing with Leslies, won't be as great as they make it sound.

We're planning on bringing board in to be soldered tomorrow and maybe next time get a new SWG. I'll let ya all know if it works. I'm thinking it will. :)
 
What salt level have you run your SWG at?

You check your salinity with a K-1766 test kit?
 
pb checked it yesterday with his digital tester that he said is pretty accurate and it was 3200. My pump hasn't been running since the board is out so I don't want to test now but I do use the Taylor salt kit.

You didn't answer my question.

If you have historically ran your Hayward SWG at salt levels of 3200-4000 that contributed to your board failure.

For the Hayward SWG you should run it at the lower end of it's range 2800-3000.

The control board sets the amps based on the cells salinity reading. Higher salinity will generate higher amps. Amps over 8 can overheat the thermistor. If the amps are 8.0 or higher after you replace the thermistor, you should reduce the salinity to prevent repeated failures.

Running the SWG at lower salinity keeps the amps low which reduces the heat on the board and the component failures.
 

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