Hello All,
Pool serviceman in the Tulsa area here, dealing with late openings/pools that have been sitting for a year or more. Advanced apologies for the word wall; I tend towards too much info...
One of the hassles of jobs like this is the decaying debris at the bottom of the pool; I cannot use a leaf master or riptide/hammerhead on it, because of the sludge-like consistency of the old leaves etc... it just clogs the bags up. Likewise, I can't vacuum it to waste because it clogs impellers and pump baskets just as quickly. That leaves scooping with a leaf rake.
Further, a traditional SLAM isn't an option due to the several visits a day and length of time it can require. My traditional clearup method diverges greatly from the TFP methodology for a few reasons; truck capacity (liquid chlorine is generally out), visit availability (I can only visit once a day during the treatment, and for a maximum time of an hour), and final visit regularity (I only come once a week, meaning a quarterly algae treatment, cal-hypo, and trichlor tabs are a huge help. Here in Tulsa, our anual rain amount is enough to lower CH and CyA levels below minimum a couple times a year for most pools if chemical usage is thought out.)
Most importantly: Cost mitigation due to labor and the customer wants it done quickly
My normal regimen:
1. Start filtration system in recirculate mode/without cartridges
2. Full brush of all pool surfaces and a 25-30ppm shock with CalHypo to last until the followup. Raise CyA using granules, or use Dichlor for both (side q: Will treating heavy green/mustard algae (clarity 3inches) with 0ppm CyA be faster than @30 CyA, or will the Chlorinated IsoCyanurates convert to Hypochlorous Acid fast enough to treat at the same speed regardless? if the latter, I will continue to raise CyA, but am playing with the idea of treating without it for the first few days)
3. Sodium Bromide treatment proportional to the shock
4. If Copper levels are low enough, a chelated Copper Triethanolamine algaecide (SeaKlear 90 Day Algae Killer or Natural Chemistry Algaebreak 90)
5. Begin scooping debris from bottom
5. Followup the next day to make sure algae is dead or re-chlorinate
6. Begin Filtration, or if conditions allow and customer wants it clear sooner, Floc (with varying results) and vacuum.
7. Followup w/ regular backwashes or cartridge cleans until clear. Vacuum remaining debris.
I prefer not to do drain/cleans in this situation, due to: not knowing if hydrostatic valves are present, or funcitonal, not knowing the condition of groundwater (most of the time this is done is during the rainy spring), and to be quite honest, never having done it before, and the full day or two it would take at just one pool. I could be convinced to do it if the above concerns are put to rest.
Besides improvements in the above regimen, which are welcome, my question is as follows:
Haviland/Clear Result makes a Sodium Percarbonate product called Pool Rescue that supposedly causes debris to float to the surface, easing the cleanup process. I think doing so can reduce the overall chlorine demand and time I spend cleaning the pool. All I can find here is the Baquacil conversion, but does anyone have any experience with it for lifting debris to the surface? More importantly, what issues can arise that may have to be corrected down the line? With this being a derivative of Soda Ash and Hydrogen Peroxide, I am assuming I would see a slight TA increase, and a fairly high pH increase (which is dealt with in the instructions. Speaking with Haviland rep, they recommend dry acid, rather than Muriatic, due to better results in the field)
Also, I've seen lots of claims on enzyme products like Natural Chemistry's Pool First Aid that the enzymes help to break up the organics faster. The consensus appears to be (as always) that under normal situations, all that is needed is proper balance between the normal pool chemistry measures. Since this is not a normal situation, could it help to quicken the process, or allow me to deal with plaster stains or decomposing debris/cloudy water faster? Specifically, it seems every other filter in the Tulsa area is an undersized sand filter making this process even harder (just spent three weeks trying to clear a 30k pool with a S220T 2.6sqft sand filter), and it would be nice not to load it up so fast. I'm used to 60-72 sqft DE filters comprising 95% of my pools in Dallas, so the inferior characteristics of sand are a bit to get used to.
Pool serviceman in the Tulsa area here, dealing with late openings/pools that have been sitting for a year or more. Advanced apologies for the word wall; I tend towards too much info...
One of the hassles of jobs like this is the decaying debris at the bottom of the pool; I cannot use a leaf master or riptide/hammerhead on it, because of the sludge-like consistency of the old leaves etc... it just clogs the bags up. Likewise, I can't vacuum it to waste because it clogs impellers and pump baskets just as quickly. That leaves scooping with a leaf rake.
Further, a traditional SLAM isn't an option due to the several visits a day and length of time it can require. My traditional clearup method diverges greatly from the TFP methodology for a few reasons; truck capacity (liquid chlorine is generally out), visit availability (I can only visit once a day during the treatment, and for a maximum time of an hour), and final visit regularity (I only come once a week, meaning a quarterly algae treatment, cal-hypo, and trichlor tabs are a huge help. Here in Tulsa, our anual rain amount is enough to lower CH and CyA levels below minimum a couple times a year for most pools if chemical usage is thought out.)
Most importantly: Cost mitigation due to labor and the customer wants it done quickly
My normal regimen:
1. Start filtration system in recirculate mode/without cartridges
2. Full brush of all pool surfaces and a 25-30ppm shock with CalHypo to last until the followup. Raise CyA using granules, or use Dichlor for both (side q: Will treating heavy green/mustard algae (clarity 3inches) with 0ppm CyA be faster than @30 CyA, or will the Chlorinated IsoCyanurates convert to Hypochlorous Acid fast enough to treat at the same speed regardless? if the latter, I will continue to raise CyA, but am playing with the idea of treating without it for the first few days)
3. Sodium Bromide treatment proportional to the shock
4. If Copper levels are low enough, a chelated Copper Triethanolamine algaecide (SeaKlear 90 Day Algae Killer or Natural Chemistry Algaebreak 90)
5. Begin scooping debris from bottom
5. Followup the next day to make sure algae is dead or re-chlorinate
6. Begin Filtration, or if conditions allow and customer wants it clear sooner, Floc (with varying results) and vacuum.
7. Followup w/ regular backwashes or cartridge cleans until clear. Vacuum remaining debris.
I prefer not to do drain/cleans in this situation, due to: not knowing if hydrostatic valves are present, or funcitonal, not knowing the condition of groundwater (most of the time this is done is during the rainy spring), and to be quite honest, never having done it before, and the full day or two it would take at just one pool. I could be convinced to do it if the above concerns are put to rest.
Besides improvements in the above regimen, which are welcome, my question is as follows:
Haviland/Clear Result makes a Sodium Percarbonate product called Pool Rescue that supposedly causes debris to float to the surface, easing the cleanup process. I think doing so can reduce the overall chlorine demand and time I spend cleaning the pool. All I can find here is the Baquacil conversion, but does anyone have any experience with it for lifting debris to the surface? More importantly, what issues can arise that may have to be corrected down the line? With this being a derivative of Soda Ash and Hydrogen Peroxide, I am assuming I would see a slight TA increase, and a fairly high pH increase (which is dealt with in the instructions. Speaking with Haviland rep, they recommend dry acid, rather than Muriatic, due to better results in the field)
Also, I've seen lots of claims on enzyme products like Natural Chemistry's Pool First Aid that the enzymes help to break up the organics faster. The consensus appears to be (as always) that under normal situations, all that is needed is proper balance between the normal pool chemistry measures. Since this is not a normal situation, could it help to quicken the process, or allow me to deal with plaster stains or decomposing debris/cloudy water faster? Specifically, it seems every other filter in the Tulsa area is an undersized sand filter making this process even harder (just spent three weeks trying to clear a 30k pool with a S220T 2.6sqft sand filter), and it would be nice not to load it up so fast. I'm used to 60-72 sqft DE filters comprising 95% of my pools in Dallas, so the inferior characteristics of sand are a bit to get used to.