Sug. for maintenance: Not enough bleach? Run pump longer? Brush more? SLAM?

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C

cpye2

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Apr 5, 2018
19
Augusta, GA
Hello all. Current setup is a vinyl liner, inground, 30k gallon, sand filter, and using the BBB method to maintain chemical balance (bleach, borax, baking soda). Test kit is a Taylor 2006. I'm in Augusta, GA. Hot and muggy.

FC: 4.2
CYA: 50
TA: 70
PH: 7.8
Water temp: 92 F

I know my current FC is a little low, but I am going to do an overnight free chlorine test tonight and ramping it back up to 8 PPM chlorine tomorrow. Normally I had been adding 1 gallon of bleach a day to keep my FC PPM between 6 and 8. When I go out of town I add an extra gallon of bleach per day I cant be here to maintain the pool. Last week I left for 4 nights and added 4 gallons of bleach. When I returned I was suprised to see what looks like a green film on the around the pool liner (below the water, of course). I checked the FC and it has gotten below the minimum FC level. This is why I am doing the OFCT. My bleach hasn't been lasting as long, though my CYA level has stayed around the same since I measured that 1 gallon a day of bleach was the trick. After I brushed the liner the water got cloudy close to the bottom of the deep end. After 4 days most of the cloud has cleared, but the film is coming back. My question is, at these temps is the green film on the liner normal? Should I have to brush the pool walls 1-2 times a week? Will keeping the FC level closer to 8 reduce brushing? Should I run my pump longer (I run 4 hrs a day, but I have sunlight from 6a-9p). Do I need to SLAM the pool at this point? FYI, I just backflushed and rinsed the filter on Monday when I brushed the pool.
 
Well, we all have to brush the pool on a fairly frequent basis - at least once a week should be good. Just like brushing our teeth, if we don't do it consistently, eventually a film begins to builds. But having a slimy feel or appearance is never normal. At the same time, over-shooting the FC level doesn't work for many days because the extra FC burns off faster than the regular amount of FC based on your daily FC target zone. Your regular FC level has adequate protection from CYA. The additional (higher) chlorine doesn't have that protection, so it gets burned off quicker. Pump run time may be a factor if it's not getting the chlorine to move around the pool enough, especially any dead zones where circulation is poor.
 
Thanks for the reply. Overnight free chlorine test at 11am showed at 3.8 FC down from 4.2 at 8PM. I'd say that fine. I ramped the FC back up to around 8, brushed the entire pool again, and got it cloudy as expected. Started running the pump at 11am this morning while brushing. I am leaving for the night and will check back in tomorrow afternoon. I'd say the green film isn't enough to be slimey. It usually goes away with footsteps or a light brush by. I am just trying to stay on top of the pool maintenance. This is my first pool. The green is fairly evenly distributed but definitely a little more concentrated around the jets and bottom of the pool closer to the jets. The deepend is where the foggy water is really noticeable as I brush everything that direction. The jets are on the shallow end wall near the steps, blowing straight to the deep end / diving board. I might run the pump an extra hour and try that, and also try to keep the FC closer to 8. I am going to hold off on shocking for now and try to get brushing down to 1 time a week vs 2.
 
Have you considered a Salt Water Chlorine Generator since you travel so often? Mine takes care of my pool for weeks on end while we vacation.

Also make sure your bleach is fresh and strong. Don't buy the stuff at General Dollar or if it doesn't list a concentration of at least 6%. Don't buy it from Home Depot or Lowes as they store it outside where the sun and the heat sap its strength.

Walmart 10% liquid chlorine from the pool section may be your best bet. I wish our locale would allow bulk chlorine sales like they have in other states.

Time to SLAM, neighbor. Your pool's slimy walls are an algae party waiting to go in to full swing!

Maddie :flower:
 
Sorry to revive an old post. I talked to a friend in another city who performs pool maintenance. He knows I use the BBB method here and take care of my own pool, so he shoots pretty straight with me. He recommended a run the pump at night time to keep the water a little cooler. He also said run the pump for an hour per 10 degrees, so if say its 90 degrees out, run the pump 9 hrs. He said if you are algae prone already, might want to go to 10. The other thing he recommended was micro dosing with a little algecide. I found a 32 oz bottle on amazon with some good reviews pretty cheap. Every week or two id add about 2 oz. Pool was prestine for the rest of the summer after the adjustments. No more brushing. Only ran the robot for debris on the bottom every couple weeks. I keep my CYA around 45-50, and FC within the pool table guide. I know a lot of people will hate on the algaecide, but it wasn't that much of a cost added considering the amount of work it saved me. Running the pump longer and at night may have played into this as well.
 
Ok, he's your friend but... he's clueless. It makes no difference to algae how long you run a pump in a non-swg pool.
Algae is a *chemical* problem, not a mechanical one.

When SWG pools run their pump longer its because the pump is what powers the chlorine production. More hours should mean more FC.

A little cheap algaecide here and there and BAM! You're back next year asking us why you have copper stains on your walls!? And how are you ever going to get them off?! Also, for the record, algaecides don't kill algae, they just work to prevent it.

SO if you're having problems with algae you need to address if your chemistry is right. Or perhaps you have an area of poor circulation so that its not getting exposed to much FC. That's one reason brushing helps. Another reason to brush is if you've got some microscopic algae that you don't even know about yet but you're brushing if off and into circulation for the chlorine kill. Yay, that's great. Untouched algae have tricky ways of hiding under biofilm which is impervious to chlorine. You gotta brush now and then!

Maddie :flower:
 
Cype2, at the end of the pool day, when all is said & done, you can manage your chemistry as you wish. No one can argue that - even TFP. :rant: But in general, we would not recommend what your friend in the industry suggests. As long as the FC/CYA are maintained properly, and the pool is brushed regularly with good circulation, additional pump run time and/or algaecides should not be needed. Pump run time should be based on adequate time to skim the surface for falling debris, mix chemicals, and for vacuuming as needed. Remember that chlorine tends to breakdown algaecide, so it's purpose can be somewhat defeated as opposed to winter closings. Hopefully any algaecides you are using are poly-60 based and do not contain copper. The important thing is that you are happy with your pool and its conditions. That's everyone's goal here at TFP. If you have any problems next season, you know where to find us.
 
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