Stripped? Leak around pressure gauge

BMoreE

New member
May 14, 2017
4
Elkridge
I believe I have the same problem listed here - the threads of the receiving side (in other words, in the filter casing itself) are stripped. Did you find a good solution in terms of up-sizing the threads on the gauge and boring a wider hole/threads? Seems risky - but my alternative is a whole new top portion of the filter ($250).

My filter is a Pentair CCP320, not a Hayward, but I'm guessing the same idea at play.
 

Patrick_B

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 7, 2011
14,999
Midland TX
Post moved from a Thread, here: Leak around pressure gauge

Hey BMore, Welcome to TFP!

I moved your post from the other thread here, to a new one of its own. Depending on how bad you might be stripped, some extra Teflon tape might get you by. If not, and you want to re-do this, you could drill and tap a new thread in 1/2 inch and screw in a 1/2X1/4 bushing to accept the gauge. Unfortunately, you don't have a lot of choices.
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,967
SouthWest Alabama
Can you post a picture of your particular filter where it's stripped?
Is it leaking where the gauge port threads into the air relief valve, or where the air relief valve threads into the filter body?

That filter has a polypropylene tank, so I'd normally suggest filling the hole with JB weld and drilling and tapping it out, however epoxies won't adhere well to poly plastics.

So, if it is the vessel itself that's stripped, and there's sufficient thickness in the boss area (threaded portion) where the air relief threads into, I'd probably drill and tap for 3/8" NPT and use a 3/8" to 1/4" NPT threaded bushing.
 

BMoreE

New member
May 14, 2017
4
Elkridge
I'll try to get a pic tonight (might not get home til dark!)

It's so stripped that the pressure gauge will screw in such that it will say put, but it never "tightens" (you can keep spinning it righty-tighty)... so it's like the bottom threads are all gone, and only the topmost thread is there, enabling it to get screwed in but not tightened down. I just opened the pool yesterday and running the pump 24/7 with no problems. My assumption is, though, that once it's "off", air will readily leak in. (I just wanted to get it pumping while I devise a solution or buy a new top for the thing.)
 

BMoreE

New member
May 14, 2017
4
Elkridge
OK, here's a pic. It looks like there might be enough material to dig out a wider thread; however I'm not convinced the current thread is "standard" such that there is an appropriate bushing that would word to fill in the larger hole. If anyone knows otherwise (i.e. "yeah, 3/8 to 1/4 will work" I'm willing to give it a shot, but this looks much wider than either of those dimensions. Maybe more like a 1/2" or 3/4" to start?
IMG_8474.jpg
 

Richard320

TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jan 6, 2010
20,440
San Dimas, CA (LA County)
Beside drilling and tapping oversize and then reducing, you might also check both side of the tank for smoothness because a bulkhead fitting might fit through.



It slips up from inside with a gasket and then you thread the nut down and tighten it up and you have a make thread sticking up that you can work off of. If the local hardware store can't help, check a marine supply for a "through-hull" fitting, or at a RV supply for something they use on water tanks.
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,967
SouthWest Alabama
Are you sure that the threads in the vessel top are unusable? It looks like those internal threads, while a little damaged, may still be usable. The threads on the air relief valve is definitely damaged beyond use.

Val-Pak makes an air relief valve from metal and that may allow you to save the threads in the tank top. Here's one place that sells them. Metal Air relief Valve .

And here's one on eBay with free shipping.

When replacing the valve, don't try to tighten it very much. It's an o-ring seal so it doesn't need a lot of pressure to seal.
 

BMoreE

New member
May 14, 2017
4
Elkridge
Beside drilling and tapping oversize and then reducing, you might also check both side of the tank for smoothness because a bulkhead fitting might fit through.
Thanks, I'll do some searching to see if I can find an appropriate fitting.

Are you sure that the threads in the vessel top are unusable? It looks like those internal threads, while a little damaged, may still be usable. The threads on the air relief valve is definitely damaged beyond use.
From what I could gather, the threads in the vessel are gone/broken off; I even found pieces of them. Only the very top circle of thread seems to remain.

I didn't look closely at the thread on the valve itself, but I don't recall those being missing (the pic shows them there but pretty greased up.) If they are, however, then that replacement valve looks like a winner. Thanks for the tips!
 

Bama Rambler

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 22, 2009
22,967
SouthWest Alabama
It's hard to tell, but if the internal threads are ruined, then Richard's suggestion of a bulkhead connector might be a good idea. Here's a 1/4" I.D. x 27/32" O.D. connector. It's kinda expensive but a lot cheaper than a new top hat.

I'm not sure what size threads those are, but it may be possible to drill and tap it to a standard NPT thread size and build your own air relief/gauge port with a stainless steel street tee, a valve and a bushing for the valve port if needed.
 
Thread starter Other Threads of Interest Forum Replies Date
beachinmoney Pumps, Filters, and Plumbing 6
F Everything Else 3
C Everything Else 3

Other Threads of Interest