Stopped producing salt plus not reading salt level correctly

mjposner

Member
May 15, 2021
7
West Palm Beach, Florida
I have a 15 year old aquarite system that was working fine until a few weeks ago. First it showed lower levels of sale (2200) so I added to bags). Despite no warning lights my tests showed no chlorine. The tests also showed very high salt of 4600. I cleaned T cell and upped the percentage but still very little chlorine production. The pool has a T Cell 15 depsite being less than 10,000 gallons. I did replace the system board last year due to a blown resistor. The display board lcd panel is going as well.

Thoughts?
 
Are you running off the same T-cell for 15 years? if so that may be a record for longevity. My first one ran for almost 10, but they do wear out. And the sign they are reaching the end of their lives is when you notice the salinity reading the controller is reporting does not match the true measured salinity. tests at 4600 and a the controller is showing 2200 is the dead give away.. also check the difference in the Instant Salinity reading for each polarity if they are way off that is another sign. Here is a reference for Cell diagnostics if you haven't already found it:
 
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For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

tftestkits.net

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test


tftestkits.net
Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 
The only cells that you can use would be a T-15 or maybe a T-5.

The circuit board might have a jumper that you can remove to switch to a T-5, but I would just go with a regular T-15.

All cells are physically the same on the outside.

The only difference is in the number and size of the plates.

T-15 has 13 Titanium Plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 1.47 lbs/day.

T-9 has 13 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.98 lbs/day.

T-5 has 7 Titanium plates, 150 x 63mm. Produces 0.735 lbs/day.

T-3 has 7 Titanium Plates, 101 x 63mm. Produces 0.53 lbs/day.
 

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The T-15 is the only cell that the box is designed to take since it is an older unit that does not allow you to select the cell size.

The board "might" have a jumper that can change the configuration to a T-5, but you would need to look on the board.

Post a picture of the board if you want to consider using a T-5.

I would recommend a T-15 in any case.
 
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