Step/Bench Seat Edge Tiles - 10 months post plaster renovation

[Segmon]

I had a pool renovation project, which started March 2, 2021 that included new Colorquartz plaster, water line, cap, step/bench seat edge tiles and pool deck repair and coating. I monitored the progress the best I could, but had to be away during the last portion of the job. I am leaving the business end details to keep this brief. The plaster team forgot to install the tiles and installed them ten months later (12/21/21) by cutting out the plaster for 2 inch square tiles. The edges of the tile with new plaster is rough and plaster is still adhered to the tile, which does not look great. Also there are black marks on the tile that I suspect are from their tools. I’ve asked the PB to clean up the edges and remove the black marks. They said the marks and plaster on the tile “may go away on their own”, and we should wait for the water to warm up (Phoenix) to get into to, to smooth the new plaster around the tiles. My question is, should I expect the black marks and plaster to resolve itself over time? Second, the PB drained the pool 90% and it has been 12 days post refilling the pool. They were responsible for cleaning (lots of debris that I did not want in my filter) and startup chemicals. It’s winter in Phoenix with lows in the mid 40’s. I did a baseline check on 1/3/22 with the following and entering it into TFP Pool Math.
Air Temp: 46°; FC: 0; pH: 8+; TA: 175; CH: 230; CYA: 28; CSI: 0.38. The PB techs are on site now so I will check the water after they clean and do the startup, but I am concerned about how to correct the CSI with both 10 month old plaster and now new plaster 12 days old. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[ajw22]

My question is, should I expect the black marks and plaster to resolve itself over time?

Hard to know what the black marks are without seeing it and knowing what tools created it.

I think expecting it to go away on its own is wishful thinking.

Second, the PB drained the pool 90% and it has been 12 days post refilling the pool. They were responsible for cleaning (lots of debris that I did not want in my filter) and startup chemicals. It’s winter in Phoenix with lows in the mid 40’s. I did a baseline check on 1/3/22 with the following and entering it into TFP Pool Math.
Air Temp: 46°; FC: 0; pH: 8+; TA: 175; CH: 230; CYA: 28; CSI: 0.38. The PB techs are on site now so I will check the water after they clean and do the startup, but I am concerned about how to correct the CSI with both 10 month old plaster and now new plaster 12 days old. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Your CSI is not a big problem. It will go down when you lower your pH and TA.

Your first priority should be your lack of chlorine.

Where did those test results come from? A pool store?

 

[Segmon]

I used Taylor K-2000 and entered results into TFP Pool Math. Getting second reading today from pool store. Thanks for your response.

 

[ajw22]

I used Taylor K-2000 and entered results into TFP Pool Math. Getting second reading today from pool store. Thanks for your response.

The K-2000 kit only does chlorine and pH.

How did you get TA of 175 and CYA of 28?

We do not view pool store tests as reliable or useful to discuss water chemistry.

You need to be using the TF-100 Test Kits or Taylor K-2006C to be following TFP methods and properly use PoolMath

 

[Segmon]

I should have been more specific and mentioned I purchased additional reagents for a complete test kit, after talking directly with Taylor. I don’t disagree about pool store testing but don’t think it is bad to have a comparison. I have always relied on my own testing and make sure the reagents are within the expiration dates. Thanks to TFP I am gaining a lot more knowledge about pool chemistry and the relationships to my plaster, tile, etc. Getting back to my original question I posted, I am pretty sure the marks in the pool are from the tools used to install the step/bench seat tiles as my new pool plaster installed 10 months ago was in really good shape. Thanks for your responses.

 

[ajw22]

Trust your testing. But do it properly. You don't get 175 for TA or 28 for CYA from the Taylor testing.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Water Testing Errors - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Using pool store testing as a comparison only adds confusion. How do you know what is accurate?

 

[Segmon]

Allen, thanks for the responses. I do trust my testing and have been a pool owner for 40 years but only in the last few years I have moved up to testing beyond CL and pH. I am taking the time now to learn and understand more about testing including the right way to test. Appreciate your feedback.